The cliff walls and ancient ruins of three canyons – Canyon de Chelly, Canyon del Muerto and Monument - make up a unique U.S. National Monument unit, because it consists of land wholly owned by the Navajo Nation, evan as park matters are administered by the National Park Service.

We had a special tour into the bottomlands of the monument, because entrance to the canyon floor is restricted: visitors are allowed only in the company of a park ranger or an authorized Navajo guide (with the exception of the White House Ruin Trail).

Our tour was led by Victoria Began, who also operates the popular "Changing Woman" coffee house (with the only latte-making machine on the reservation).