Most people get to the Pak Ou caves by river from Luang Prabang and make an easy landing at a little jetty under Tham Ting.

But others brave the land route – though a new road is making it far easier for jumbo (open taxis) and passengers alike.

The jumbo will take you to a small village on the opposite bank, a dozen or two wooden houses raised off the ground, a handful of watchful but friendly villagers.

A brief walk takes you to the edge of the village ... with a view across the river that is worth the journey on its own.

Below, local lads wait with their small boats to ferry Pak Ou pilgrims across to the caves, returning later to pick you up for the return journey.