Haridwar is a holy city downriver from Rishikesh on the Ganges, of greater spiritual significance to India's Hindus. Some of the modern temples are as lurid as any theme park, with all worshippers and visitors channelled through the complex on a set route, climbing in and out of imitation caves and marvelling at deities with moving parts. The riverside Aarti ceremony as dusk falls is quite different from that in Rishikesh; hundreds gather every night of the year to watch and participate.

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