Close to the small town of Chálten, Viedma Glacier, humbled by its famous brother Perito Moreno Glacier, gets relatively few visitors. After a boat trip on Viedma Lake where we learn how to use the crampons that will allow us to walk safely on the ice, we arrive at last at the glacier that, as so many others, is shrinking. After walking over the thin ice, avoiding bottomless crevasses and having drunk a whiskey (with natural glacier ice) we are in for a strange experience: we enter a lateral fissure and enter a cave bathed in an intense blue light whose roof is formed by ice of the glacier itself.