The first time I came here the old centre was crowded with craftsmen. Now much of it is more like a large market place. Many of the goods will be imported from countries with even cheaper labour, and the hand-labourers have largely moved to the edge of town, where the rents are lower.

In the centre is a nice square that has the atmosphere I wished had lingered some more. On it a group of musicians was rehearsing, or just making fun. One acted like a director, a teacher almost, firing them on.