Beni Hassan, Egypt

Sunday 1st January 2006
Day 379

Now the land of Pyramids is left well and truly behind – in Middle and Upper Egypt, the form of burial was tombs. This was mainly due to the sheer expense – both in terms of money and labour – of Pyramid construction. Whatever method of burial chamber chosen, it didn't help protect the tomb from robbers. Unless you were a lowly, unimportant Pharaoh, such as Tutankhamen, your tomb was guaranteed to be robbed.

Where is this rambling going? Well, tombs for a start... rock tomb, dug into the cliff face. The start of intricate artwork is now being seen. Even after 3 to 5 thousand years, the paint colouring is still vivid. I'd like to show you some examples, but it turns out the photo ban is rife throughout Egypt. The excuse being damage by flash h photography – far easier to police by banning all photography! And yes, I was a naughty boy, and did get told off...

This evening, the police protection did become oppressive, as for a group of 25 of us, we were escorted, on foot, by 8 armed guards, our bodyguard, and at the restaurant, the local chief of police was also dining. The sniffer dogs even paid a visit! The evening being in Assiut, which is the hotbed of fundamental Islam in Egypt, although Westerners have been in no danger for over 10 years here.

Not far away from the tombs of Beni Hassan, the farm workers toiled in the fields oblivious to what was around them – I think there are more important things in life to worry about than the long abandoned, decorated caves nearby.