'...On the 14th the sunlight streamed across the peaks. We set off early for Mt. Royal,
climbing the rocky spine that divides the ice moving down the north face.
The snow scenery was terrific, the slope nearby being heavily cut by crevasses. The ridge led to the crest
just west of the summit, and after a short scramble we reached the top at 9500 feet.
The weather was clear, and the view into the jumbled confusion of the Waddington range was bewildering.
Mt. Success rose a little higher to the south. We relaxed on top as long as possible,
our eyes drifting from range to range trying to drink in all the space and silence.
Hiking back along the ridge we found a snow filled couloir on the south face
which provided an easier descent, but gave a more circular route to camp.
We reached the tents at sundown, with the sky almost ready for stars...'
John Clarke, "The Niut Range", CAJ Vol. 56, 1973