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Compass Marine How To | all galleries >> Welcome To >> Replacing A Cutlass Bearing (Sleeve Bearing) > Done
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The finished product. Press it in until flush with the end of the strut re-install the set screws with blue Loc-Tite and you're done. It should be noted that the bearing shell should be "spotted" with a drill to accept the heads of the set screw PLEASE be careful doing this that you don't go through the bearing and that you don't muck up the set screw holes threads.

Unless you own a hydraulic or mechanical press the easiest and most reliable way to replace a cutlass is to do it with the shaft out. I would recommend replacing a cutlass any time you have the shaft out as they are cheap insurance.

This entire job, from start to finish, after the shaft was already removed, even with taking these photos, was about 30 minutes. If you need to make two cuts it could take longer..

Nikon D200
1/60s f/5.6 at 85.0mm iso800 full exif

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Casper 27-Feb-2018 03:27
Nice! Good info for me (a first timer DIY'er). Well done.
Jim Waller 22-May-2016 15:29
This was a great article & will save me from screwing up an installation. Many thanks
Jacky 11-Oct-2014 21:55
Thanks, great help!
Mark 31-May-2014 21:20
If you freeze the bearing first for 24 hours it will install much easier. Using a regular freezer will be fine.
Guest 27-May-2014 22:50
I have been told that placing the new bearing in a freezer for a couple of hours before installation in strut is very helpful as the cold will shrink the bearing.
Ken 30-Dec-2013 04:09
Good description about how to replace the bearing but, after it's been replaced and the shaft reinstalled, how "tight" should the shaft be? Should it turn freely or should it bind until lubricated and given a bit of a chance to "wear"?
LNP HARAN 13-Mar-2013 15:06
Very good explanation and easy to follow procedures.
Other than chisel and hammer is there a simple and easy way of removing the chockfast for alignment repairs? Thanks,
Mike Anderson 08-May-2012 22:54
Is it advisable to warm the bearing hanger up to just hot enough to be hot to the touch,but not hot enough to really burn your hand if you were to touch it right before pressing into the housing? And is using never sieze on the bore of the housing and the O.D. of the bearing advisable. Thanks.