In the afternoon of Christmas Eve, en route from the Falklands to South Georgia, the Minerva slowed down as we passed close by Shag Rocks, a group of six precipitous outcrops that take their name from their huge population of South Georgia Shags – the rocks are literally teeming with them, and a constant stream of them fly back and forth to fish in the nearby seas. Although the rocks are prominent on the direct route between the Falklands and South Georgia, they were not charted with any accuracy until the 1920’s, and no one landed on them until 1956; an interesting example of how recent our knowledge is of this remote part of the planet.

We arrived at the sheltered harbour of Elsehul Bay, South Georgia, about 5:00 a.m. on Christmas morning. A heavy fog lay draped across the bay, the temperature was 2°C, but there was little wind. We went out at 9.30 a.m. for a Zodiac cruise around the bay where large colonies of aggressive Fur Seal and some Elephant Seal crowded the beaches and the rocky slopes above them. The higher ground provided nesting places for Black-browed and Grey-headed Albatross whose ungainly take-offs and landings provided us with much amusement. Further down the slopes Macaroni Penguins had their nests, and large numbers of King Penguins and Gentoos were to be seen everywhere. Elsehul is also a haven for other sea birds, flying around and above us: South Georgia Shag, Northern and Sothern Giant Petrel, Light-mantled Sooty Albatross, Pale-faced Sheathbill and Arctic/Antarctic Tern. It stayed pretty misty in the delightful bay although down at sea level it cleared enough to take photographs.

Back on Minerva, Santa Claus and his elf arrived by Zodiac to much applause and amusement, after taking a couple of celebratory turns around the ship, and everyone took a photo with him seated next to a Christmas tree on the stern. And I always thought Santa lived at the North Pole…