The next day we set out on the adventure of a lifetime to see some of Greenland’s famed icebergs and glaciers from a seal hunter’s boat. For 11 hours we braved freezing winds (but sunny skies) and saw what must surely be some of the most beautiful, rugged and spectacular scenery in the world. Our hunter had an open 18ft fiberglass boat with a 115 hp outboard motor. It wasn’t comfortable (two of us sat on a ledge in the bow, two on an upturned box in the middle of the boat, and the hunter’s wife and son on the transom at the back), but it was sturdy and fast. We first headed south and then west into the open ocean where we weaved in and out of the sea ice at high speed, occasionally hitting some submerged ice with a big thump on the bottom of the boat. I’ve labeled this ‘Atlantic Ocean’ because we were just south of the Arctic Circle, so technically we were still in the Atlantic Ocean and not the Arctic Ocean (although it felt like the latter!).