Hong Kong has a complexity that defies definition. It's the only place where I can be searching for colonial military relics near the Chinese border, lunching with a Buddhist at a Sikh temple, trying to decipher the aesthetics of Chinese Revival architecture, or splurging on a set of knives – all within five hours – followed by a night of Cantonese opera, karaoke or poetry, anywhere I choose. Hong Kong is so intense and so full of possibilities that I’m glad there’s the rule of law (and an awesome transport system) to stop it from whirling into chaos.

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