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Chris | all galleries >> photojournal >> 2005 ALL >> 2005 PAD >> 2005 January PAD > 20050126 / My Wave
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26-JAN-2005

20050126 / My Wave

Marina SB, CA

Take, if you want a slice
If you want a piece
If it feels alright

Break, if you like the sound
If it gets you up
If it brings you down



Surfing this break, for me, is a lesson in humility. Equal parts
paddling, sucking wind and freezing with very little payoff.
I live here now. I'll learn to deal with it. Nothing beats the
first time you get upright on a left or leave it all out on a right.
When it comes, however short the ride, it all becomes worth it.


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Guest 28-Jan-2005 19:58
Great image chris. The sky is fantastic.
Cheryl Hawkins28-Jan-2005 01:37
I seem to have run out of words, but wanted to tell you i think all three of these photos are beautiful, majestic, inspirational…
Dominic Kite27-Jan-2005 14:10
This is another superb seascape Chris, nicely done!
Guest 27-Jan-2005 07:37
Wow Chris, very nice, love how the light is coming out through the clouds
Susanne27-Jan-2005 05:51
Very nice poem with your image. I would imagine that after some period of frustration ( when you try to figure out how to surf) that any small duration of time you spend on the board surfing would be very rewarding. Very nice image. I love how the sky expands over the entire picture.
jude27-Jan-2005 04:35
I'm not sure if I like the words or the photo best - maybe they make each other perfect. This is so exquisite. I think it's the clouds that do it .. the way they seem to feather the air all around leaving it almost bare in the middle. Like the sea is being embraced.
Gayle P. Clement27-Jan-2005 03:57
A beautiful evening, Chris.