 Lujan Sayat, 16 year old Penan girl who was one of our guide to Ulu Magoh |
 Inside the Maswing Twin Otter 15 seater. |
 Marudi |
 Marudi Airport Control Tower. |
 We transit here for 10 mins and met Angoi and Joyce. Angoi was in charge of Long Seridan airport in 2006. |
 Turbo prop at 3500ft |
 A polluted river and a clear river on the right |
 Approaching Long Seridan Airport. |
 You can see the runway at the top of the pic. |
 There is only one runway to land and takeoff. The other runway has high terrain close by |
 Long Seridan and all the other surrounding places. |
 Take off Long Seridan |
 Take Off. Faye and Thomas upfront taking photo. In KLIA you only see aircraft from enclosed glass. |
 Flight arrival is a sort of social gathering for the Kelabits and Penans as well though they tend to keep away from the crowd. |
 Familiar faces: Joyce's Mom and Dad. See the 2006 trip here. |
 Seridan airport when Singang drop by to see us. We met him in 2006 atLong Naring. |
 Thomas and Robin. |
 Micheal, Sidek and Singang. Michael, bro in law of Dawat Lupung was called to guide us to Ulu Magoh. |
 In the Control Tower with Robin. |
 We met Lujan Sayat here in this dark Rumah Sakai, a half way house for Penan during their visit to the clinic |
 View of Seridan main Longhouse. |
 Klinik Long Seridan |
 This another shot of Rumah Sakai. Lujan Sayat is on the right. We first met her here. It was a lucky meet here. |
 Only in rural Sarawak Airport can you cross the runway. |
 Inside airport with Doc Param |
 And suddenly Lujan appeared and is willing to show us to Ulu Magoh. We just met her at the Rumah Sakai when we went for a visit. |
 The woman who has Malaria and waiting for the MA to return from holiday also walk over. I heard later that she walk back to Ulu |
 I think this is the Penghulu's family as the satelite phone is placed here. This lady looks familiar. |
 A Kelabit Lady in the Penghulu's Longhouse. |
 Crossing a stream at the back of the Govt quarters. |
 1st rest below a farming hut. |
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 Crossing the swift and mighty Magoh. |
 The current is so strong that it can sweep you off your feet. |
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 TBF crossing solo. |
 Current was so strong that you got to use a stick as a balancer. |
 Before the crossing. |
 Sidek looking down. |
 Almost there. |
 Dawat's dog, Asok will swim and land diagonally on the opposite bank. |
 Another group lead by Michael as a anchorman |
 I thinkMichael crossed 5 times to lead the group. |
 Kelabit padi field. |
 A heard a shout and saw Faye falling into the unseen ditch. |
 The padi is almost ready to menuai. |
 Nice view |
 Asok, truly a man's best friend. Story of him later. |
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 Twilight comes early in Sarawak. |
 Last light is 7pm. You hardly can see your hand in front of you. |
 Regrouped and prepare to trek at night. |
 It was a long night trek. Crossing and walking in the river, then climbing steep hills really slow down us. |
 Tourch light is the lifeline. Without it you have to stop and set camp immediately |
 At 11.30pm we saw this fire and we were elated. |
 4 of us were at the front. Lujan was the best I hv seen. She know all the juctions which I barely can guess is the way to go. |
 While on the river following her, she suddening disapear in the dark. I don't think any of us can take a step fwd along theriver |
 We backtrack but saw a light upriver. We rush up and saw her with her sister. She walk to her hut and bac in 10min. Fantastic! |
 We prepare Campbell soup and that's dinner. |
 Lujan, is the eldest girl in the Sayat family. She has to skip school cos she suffer from "petit mild epilepsy" |
 While we reached here, 5 of our team decided to bivouac on the rock of the river. It was 12.30am and the legs just can't moved. |
 MIchael and Sidek push and arrived at the hut that night and told us about it. Asok the dog is behind the pic |
 A view from our hut. There is no room here, all open area, no even wall |
 Day 2 and Thomas arrive at 7am and immediately said that the Penan are very patient people. |
 Doc, Yatie and Faye spend a night in the open last night and still look cheerful. |
 ASOK the dog actully stay with them at the river last night despite the Penans pushed to Sayat's hut. He also sniff the way. |
 Lujan trekked BAREFOOTED the whole way. And never missed a junction. Asok also help last night to sniff the way but sometimes |
 Asok lost the trail in the river. |
 This is Lujan feet. They hv to withstand torns and sticks, boulders on the river, slippery slopes with a 50lbs load, |
 leeches and sandflies which you wouldn't bother once in the dark tired and hungry. I got to salute her. |
 Lujan and Raymond helping to keep the fire going. |
 Raymond pronounce Rimen is the most sociable of the lot. |
 Young sister Diana |
 Raymond Sayat |
 Timah Sayat |
 Lujan Sayat in her quietist moment. She is pretty but not schooling. We wonder what future will behold! |
 Fruit like ciku |
 Dried and charcoal like "payau" |
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 Dinner in the dark. |
 Mother and daugther. Dad is behind. |
 Mother and child. Luna is the youngest and cried on seeing us. |
 The hut where 7 of us slept and also 7 of Sayat family |
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 Faye climbing the log. |
 Lujan playing a game like handball. |
 Geraout Mogut's house. |
 Funny thing happened here. There is a Siamese fighting cock who will attack the dog. Faye had a good laugh. |
 Penan carrying basket. Can carry a load of 60lbs at a speed of 5km an hour in the Rainforest. |
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 Pan used to prepare sago |
 Leftover frog heads. |
 Barbequed Babui are left like this. |
 Can be eaten for 3 days. |
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 Only rattans are use to hold beams. No nails used. |
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 Our food and gear in big plastic bags. |
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 Raymond, Faye and John Hussain |
 This is CNY and anypow giving. This is Diana. |
 Raymond or Rimen |
 Lujan Sayat |
 Timah Sayat |
 Magrate Gerawat |
 Johani Gerawat |
 John Hussain, a very quiet person. He lost his wife and is alone. |
 With Thomas |
 Leaf of a plant use by Penan as ground sheet |
 A map of Magoh prepare by the timber company. |
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 Day 3. Long Turum to Long Balau. At 7am. |
 Our guides Jamet and John. Hussain |
 April shoes was from last year trek. It gives way during the 1st day trek. |
 The best running shoes would not takes the beating of this trek. Faye has to use the croc sandals. |
 Breakfast hill sure is. Up and up for 1 hour. |
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 And then hit the timber track. Refer to GPS track for info. |
 This log bridge collapsed and we have to crossed the river. |
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 From the river up to the Diraya company road |
 Sayat Magut, the penghulu of Ulu Magoh. Like nomadic Penans he walk barefoot. |
 The torns on the ground, most of the way on the Diraya. Sayat will sometime stop to pick the torns from his sole. |
 Cold misty morning on the track. Thomas as usual is helpful as the way. |
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 Sayat post like a proud Penan. |
 Took a shot here to show his calf muscle. The muscle contract as he walk cos of the heavy load. |
 Another good rest after a long climb in the forest to shortcut the Diraya. |
 View of the rainforest as we walk |
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 Sometimes a had a glimpse of G Mulu. |
 2 of our guides, Jamet and John |
 Single file, that how the Penans walk even in town like Belaga of Marudi |
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 Orchids |
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 Doc Param and Yatie |
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 Sayat pointed that's where he buried his son and will farm around it soon. Quite sad if we see the rate the forest is logged. |
 April post. Today trek is more relax with beautiful scenery. |
 The the blowpipe direction where his son was buried. |
 Walking a the edge of a landslide. A bit risky. |
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 Last kms to Long Balau. |
 Mulu as a backdrop. |
 Everybody welcome you including the dogs. The children will cry. |
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 Deccending to Sg Merlinau |
 Survey vehicle beside Sg Merlinau. See GPS for ref. |
 There is the survey dept camp |
 Crossing the Sg Merlinau. |
 Faye crossing the Merlinau. This river has the same name as Mulu Merlinau. |
 Yatie |
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 The Penan longhouse is situated across the river and this is the bridge. |
 The centre log had collapse and it takes alot of guts tocross. |
 Everybody from the longhouse came down to look at the drama |
 This guy is a superb balancer. He just cross it carrying 3 heavy haversack at a time and cross it 3 times as if he is walking on |
 Faye was guided front and back. |
 Juli the Penghulu son's wife. |
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 The longhouse have 15 bilek |
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 Chief Tebaran Siden and his father Siden Jemelee at the Marudi reggatta. |
 Close of the Chief. |
 Penans visit to KL during the blockage days. I heard them at MU hall organised by MNS |
 Penan activist. |
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 Up from Sg Merlinau. She has to use her croc sandle today as her shoes were causing lot of pain. |
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 Survey boys from Limbang. They stayed here for 2 weeks. |
 The intention is to survey a gaspipe from Sabah to Bintulu. |
 A house in sight at 6pm. Long Balau. |
 Post with the Penghulu's father. |
 We slept in front of the Penghulu rooms. |
 Tattoo |
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 Bath in Lg Balau is this clear river. |
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 A sight of Long Balau. |
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 Abet Tebaran has a girl who completed Form 6 and can't find a job. |
 Long house verandah |
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 Mathew Ahmat and wife came down from a timber camp to see us for help. His son can't afford to buy a ticket back from Marudi to |
 We offered to sponsor 2 student from Marudi-Seridan duringGawai and Christmas. |
 There are other things that we discuss but we explain that we r not from the Perintah. We r tourists. |
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 SIB church gathering at 11am. |
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 We on the other side. |
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 Juli plays the guitar and sing the gospels. |
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 Juli also conduct the prayer. |
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 Leaves for making mats are dried. |
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 Lunch by the river. |
 Teberan joined us |
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 1st class rotan |
 Rotan plant |
 LOnghouse beauty after a bath |
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 "Pretty Woman" from Long Balau. Julia Roberts step aside!! |
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 Marina who harrassed Faye for RM5 to buy rokok. Faye had a nightmare when she was squating infront of her when she woke up |
 Nepentes |
 Woman come down to wash. |
 LOcal fruit |
 Freshly caught ikan Sema'ah and others |
 Thomas followed the Chief and son to jaring the fish in a lubok. It makes a good photo if taken |
 Fried sago worms |
 Faye eating the grubs |
 Penans dishes like Sago, fish and paku spread out on the 2nd nite. |
 Doc enjoying dinner. |
 Hill rice anybody? |
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 Use a splitted front bamboo into the sago, roll it into a lollipop, soaked into a sauce and swallow it. That's the way to eat |
 Sago grubs |
 Tebaran after the fishing trip around 6pm. |
 8am on the 5th day. Long Balau to Long Seridan. |
 Guide Mathew and his wife. |
 Farewell to friends, the Penans way. |
 Doc with guides |
 Tebaran says goodbye too. |
 All the ladies in the longhouse. |
 After 40 mins along the river, we hit the Diraya |
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 Nyiok, our 3rd guides. He speaks English better than some of our graduates. |
 Talking to Egan. |
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 Motorbike used by Abet, chiefs daughter to bring her kids to Seridan. She went to Seridan on Sat and Sun to meet her son but was |
 disapointed that 2 flt were cnl due to bad wx. |
 Sg Buang where Mathew has a farm. |
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 Into the forest for the last part of the journey. 1 hour to go. |
 Nyiok and Igu Agan who join us just before we turn off in to the forest. |
 It is quite easy walk thru small streams and rocks. Mostly flat. |
 We wanted to drink from the stream but Nyiok say it is contaminated due to previous logging. Drink at a cold river in 10 mins, |
 Faye(pronounce Fay, e is silent) and Yatie |
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 Between stops have to mark the GPS. |
 Mathew adjusting his haversack. He put the haversack into his rattan basket, that the way it is. |
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 Checking for leech. |
 Sg Bukit , which Nyiok mentioned that the water is cold and safe to drink. |
 This hut was built by fishermen who fish in this river. |
 Drink as much as you want. The outdoor people say that you must add chlorine, iodine or filter. |
 Liong Pala, Mathew wife. |
 That's James Richie in his book Bruno Manser: The Inside Story. |
 Faye and Yatie arriving. |
 Nice river with crystal clear water and trees cover. |
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 Up to the lastpart of the climb, 1 big climb. |
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 Igu Agan is a true Penan, walk barefooted and a master story teller. Lot of tales similar to James Ritchie book. |
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 A good rest. Nyiok say this is the summit and if you ask for 1 more you won't get it |
 Sharing groudnuts and biscuits |
 The mouth of Ulu Magoh and Sg Seridan meet here. |
 Just enjoying the atmosphere cos we are back to Long Seridan in minutes. |
 Somebody wants a coke and chips badly. |
 Crossing the swift Magoh in group. |
 In line now. That how the Penan walk in the forest and towns. |
 What the hell I am doing this Daddy? CNY and suffering here in Penan land. U call this a holiday? |
 Me last man going my own. Lost my balance in the middle due to swift current but recover. Guide passed a stick and was better. |
 April Tan crossing. As a Form 2 girl she wonder whether she is lucky to be doing this then just be like any other girls. |
 Faye crossing. |
 Almost there. Here is where 2 great river meet. Magoh and Seridan. |
 Out of the forest |
 There is the great Magoh, the great river of our forefathers. |
 3 Penan guides: Mathew, Liong, and Nyiok. Somebody likes Nyiok blowpipe. |
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 Just enjoying the scenery and the sound of the river roaring. Nature is really awesome. |
 IGU AGAN, a Penan who has "berjalai". The best Penan we have met. |
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 Faye walking on the Seridan |
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 Crossing the Seridan here. |
 Long Seridan here we come. |
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 Walking on the bank of Seridan |
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 Long Seridan, our second time here. |
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 Kelabits repairing the Church. We heard somebody has fall from the roof of the Church and is in the Klinik. Dr Param ask me |
 to go to the clinic straightaway to see the patient. We saw a group of woman fanning a person in a strecther attached to a drip. |
 Doc has a talk with the MA Awang and is waiting for a Mercy Flt. Doc Param decided to pull back the shoulder dislocation. After |
 15 mins, he was sedated and we managed to put back his dislocated shoulder. Nxt day the Penghulu was seen walking back. |
 Last tea, a small chat and payment and anypows to help them. We gonna missed them. |
 Egan in his joviol self |
 THey bring along birthcert and school records to justify their appeal. We were taken aback on how bad the situation is |
 Igu Agan |
 Liong Pala. |
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 We came to Seridan to see this. |
 The boarding school for Penan kids. |
 The school teachers quarthers. |
 Probably the HM house. The HM here is a Penan. |
 Here are the kids we want to help. There are the 4 girls from Magoh wearing the T shirt we gave in Magoh. Yatie says they stand |
 out among the crowd. Front yellow T; Diana Sayat, Johani Gerawat, back; Magrate Gerawat, Raymond Sayat. |
 They were lined up according to their longhouses. |
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 There is only 1 boy from a longhouse. Left row is children from Long Naring |
 We are the World we are the people. |
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 Magrate Gerawat, From Ulu Magoh, selected to finance her education. |
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 Johani Gerawat and Diana Sayat. We have selected to finance their education |
 We gave all the children RM5 which meant alot to them |
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 This is Raymond Sayat. Yatie has selected to sponsor her thru her education. |
 They are dispersed and to their rooms |
 At Robin's house where we sign his guest book.Robin is on the right |
 Giving angpow to his girls. 1 of them has a kid. |
 Family photo; daughter, wife Sinasiran Lumunun. Kelabit change their names after getting a kid |
 The room where we sleep. Very comfy indeed. |
 Adjoining hall to the kitchen. Typical in Sarawak longhouse, both side is open. |
 Dining room. Robin build this house himself in 4 months. |
 Below the house. Robin has put all his life effort in this house; there is a fish pond, fruit trees and plants that is needed. |
 Robin intends to do a "homestay" business here. Kelabit hospitality is well known. |
 Off to the river to go by outboard perahu today |
 This boat is own by Robin. |
 Sg Magoh at its best. |
 Boarding now and it about 820am. We actually has ticket to fly out of Seridan on Thursday but is 2 days wait. |
 So we decided to go by other mode of transport and see more of the areas. |
 Clear water and overhanging trees. |
 The white water part which is fun and water will splash into the boat |
 Doc Param and Yatie. Smile cos we gonna have good fun today |
 Just shoot another rapid. There are more than 10 rapids to Long Mara'an and some of them are real tricky. |
 Robin was thinking of building a lodge here for tourists to stay. |
 Another rapid. Robin knows this river very well. There was 1 bend that he steers toward the shallow beach and turn right. |
 B cos sticking out in the middle was a log blocking half the river. See the wave on the left. |
 Is fun and excitement as you approached the rapid |
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 This 1 was heart stopping. the boat almost reversed which will cause it tocapsized. But last minute oar by Sina make it rite. |
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 Log jutting out in the river |
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 Some of the scenery are just beautiful. |
 The only sound is the gibbon calling. This is heaven on earth. |
 After 1hr and 20min we reached Long Mara'an, a Penan settlement. |
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 We sat goodbye to Robin and Sina. Sina is the Penan ctc man. The Nomadic Penan also come to see her. |
 Sina brought warpped rice and some canned food for us. She told us lot of stories about the Penans, which families and names. |
 That Kelabit hospitality. She cud hav woke up at 5am to cook the rice and totful that we hv to wait here. |
 The company provides free transport once a week and it happens to be tuesday. We are lucky again |
 SIB church in Long Mara'an. |
 Sign posted "Long Mara'an" |
 You can wait the whole day and there is no vehicle. |
 Robin and Sina leaving us. |
 Another Goodbye. They have been very nice but never ever said abt it. |
 At 245pm we got our transport who brought the Long Mara'an people back. |
 Met with another $ wheel transporting the locals. |
 Can see the big river from the timber track. |
 Bridge across this river |
 Mist at 3pm. The track is quite high up. 3 of us are standing behind the truck. |
 Camp Juling, very active which Mercedes Santaiwong. |
 Reach Long Bedian at 4pm and there is no more transport to Long Lama |
 Mee goreng and tea here. Faye eat 2 bowls here. |
 The locals Kayan woman folks are coming back from their farm at 5pm |
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 Long Bedian, quite a big town. You would never step into this town in your lifetime. |
 Some washing in Jok Wan house where a room cost us RM40. |
 Faye cleaning her croc sandals which save her blister feet on the 2nd day. |
 Penan kids in Long Bedian boarding school. They say there are 200 Penan kids here?? |
 They are more socialble here. |
 And approachable. |
 Sekolah Rendah Long Bedian |
 Long Bedian Vip Guesthouse. |
 Next morning |
 Kayan woman work in their farm. |
 Church in Long Bedian |
 Inside the church |
 The old Longhouse |
 Pencana house. |
 The square |
 50 year old now. |
 Old folk in the longhouse. |
 Tattoo all over the body. |
 She said it is very painful doing the tattoo the old way. |
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 Kindagarden |
 Long Temalak, 1 hr from Long Bedian. This is the only coffeeshop. |
 The Express arrived at 10am sharp. |
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 In the Express. It is aircon and cost RM25 ea to Marudi |
 Arrive Marudi at 2pm and had lunch. |
 The savior. |
 GPS tracks and waypoints on the expedition. The first day only half track can be seen cos the battery run out. |
 Long Bedian to Marudi. We past Long Lama the bastion of SIB history in the book "The Uncharted Water" by Southwell. |
 Seridan to Long Bedian. |
 Lujan Sayat, Ulu Magoh. |
 Diana Sayat, younger sister of Lujan |
 Sayat Magut, Ulu Magoh told me quietly that he had a dream before we come and now he say it is a good dream. |
 Ide Buke, mom of Lujan preparing tapioca for Yatie. It was boiled and it is the best tapioca we had. |
 Gerawat Mogut, Ulu Magoh. Very outspoken |
 Rina Magut,Gerawat's wife. Children - Johani 10,Magrate 11, Jonathan 5, Elijana 1 |
 Lujan by the fire. Fire is everything here. Beside cooking, it keep the hut warm, light the place up, keep the mozzies away. |
 Thomas sleeping. He sleep so well that he snored. |
 Asok the dog. I don't any other species of dogs can survive this environment. |
 Drawing in Rumah Sakai. |
 Timber track are the only land link to Marudi from Miri. |
 So called "Diraya company", it help to bring in heavy equipment that aircraft can't. |
 But then again, this is the way the forest is logged, taking millions and leaving behind devasted forest and polluted rivers. |