Nearly every day, Alejandro the Baker Man comes out of his family's home bakery with the showcase on his head. He makes his rounds of Pátzcuaro's Plazas. The case is full of little pastry treats, the best of which are Empanaditas de Carne, or delicate, hot turnovers, filled with picadillo or tuna. The thick, crumbling shortbread polvorones are super, still warm from the oven.