02-DEC-2012
Fitting the pieces togther
I fitted the two pieces together to re-check my measurements for the umpteenth time! I came up with perfect length measurements.
The mating hood that I picked up unfortunately had a huge hole cut in it and a Corvair deck lid set of louvers was pop riveted to it. Looks like I'll have to weld in a patch of about 2" wide by 25" long.
Looking at the fit of the grooves in the hood with the two pieces, they don't line up so well. I think that I'm going to have to channel a section out of the extension piece to make it fit correctly.
03-DEC-2012
Hood extended and welded!
After carefully measuring, cutting, and test fitting, the new extended hood is welded together. I ended up adding just about 7" to the overall length of the hood.
Test fitting the hood after it was tacked up was very promising and made the front end of the Jeepster look "whole".
03-DEC-2012
Hood all fitted together
After looking at all the angles and bends in the hood, it was apparent that I wasn't going to just be able to weld this extension piece on the main hood. The ridges on the hood did not line up at all so the extension piece was going to have to be sectioned to get the width I needed.
After all was said and done the extension was sectioned 1/2" wider to get the ridges to line up. Aside from the 1/2" fill piece needed I cut a piece 2 1/4" wide by 25" long to fill the gap where the old louvers used to be in the extension hood section.
I still have to fit the hinges and get the hood curve to match the cowl so I still have a little bit of manipulating to do!
03-DEC-2012
Hinge backing plates
Since the old Bullnose hood used traditional "car type" hinges and the new Jeepster hood uses old school Jeep hood hinges I need to beef up the cowl to accept new hinge bolts and prevent stress on the thin sheet metal.
I used some 5/16" by 3 1/2" wide flatbar, measured up my holes then drilled and tapped them to accept the 5/16" hood bolts. I cut the flatbar 4 1/2" long so that the plates will have a good spread and prevent stress on the area of the cowl. I will drill some holes in the cowl sheet metal and plug weld the plates to the cowl while being held up tight by the hinge bolts.
Just when I thought I was done with the bodywork on the cowl it looks like I'll have a little more bodywork to do after the welding! Oh well at least it will be strong.
04-DEC-2012
Hinge support in place
I drilled through the cowl to the backing plate/hinge support so that I could plug weld the plate to the cowl for strength.
04-DEC-2012
Hinge support plate welded
I welded both backing plates in place so now I should have a nice strong support for the hood hinges. I now have to go back and do a little bodywork on the cowl to conceal the welds.
I now have a functioning hood!
16-DEC-2012
Hood "section" gap
When I sectioned the hood extension piece it left a gap of about 1/2" wide. I need to make a matching rib piece to cover the gap and be welded in place.
16-DEC-2012
Gap cover
I took a piece of sheet metal and formed it into the shape I needed to mimic the hood rib. I'll now weld it in place so that the hood will have strength again in the middle where the hood was sectioned.
16-DEC-2012
Hood tips removed
I didn't like how the end of the Jeepster hood fit because on the front of the hood it has tips that go down at the end. I cut a wedge section out, pounded the area flat and now I will weld it back together.
Now the bottom edge will be flat from the cowl all the way up to the grille and should have an even gap all along the top of the fender.
16-DEC-2012
Close up of the new edge
I took off a nice sized wedge to get the bottom of the hood to sit flat
18-DEC-2012
Hood tips welded
I was able to get the rest of the welding done on the hood. Now on to completing the bodywork and making it straight.
The metal on the tips of the hood were pretty thin but with the TIG welder the heat is controlled really easily.
18-DEC-2012
Welded rib brace
After welding in the patch on the rib that was sectioned, the hood is once again nice and stiff. Now I can proceed with the metal work/bodywork on the hood without the hood moving and flexing. The reinforced rib will allow the hood to retain it's shape and not move when I start pounding on it!