I visited about 10 monasteries and palaces during the short journey. The smell of yak butter filled monasteries took a while to get used to, and the steep, narrow stair cases reminded me of Holland. In most cases, photography was strictly prohibited inside. With rare cases when it was allowed, a fee was charged for every room entered. Most of the stairs and chapels were without light fixtures, so murals were totally invisible without the aid of yak butter lamps and natural light. In just about any place that could hold something, there were tons of small bills and white hadas donated by pilgrims.