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Dave Wyman | profile | all galleries >> Galleries >> Journey to "The Yellowstone" | tree view | thumbnails | slideshow |
To that end, we eight - two women and six men - agreed to meet in Salt Lake City, the capitol of Deseret (otherwise known as Utah) where dwell a great many of the formally polygamous Mormons.
Tim and Phil had to make an arduous trek from the great parklands of Zion and Bryce Canyon, in the southern reaches of Deseret, while Ken, Joanne and Roger made an equally difficult approach from that land of the fruit tree, Orange County, in California. Meanwhile, Rial flew on that most modern and practical of conveyances, a jet airplane, from the city of Burbank, also in Southern California, while Rosemarie flew from the city of Oakland, located on the east side of the beautiful San Francisco Bay. I made my own way, flying from Los Angeles, the great metropolitan center of the western United States.
My flight took me first out over the blue-green water of the vast Pacific Ocean, and then the plane turned its silver nose inland, its great engines flying us high above a mostly unpopulated land, principally over vast portions of arid California, Nevada and Utah. I arrived in Salt Lake City somewhat parched and in need of a good meal, as scant fare was presented to us on our flight eastward.
We all met, on the evening of Sunday, September 24th, at the comfortable, if not commodius, Super 8 Motel, a bit west of Salt Lake City, and not far from the highly saline waters of the Great Salt Lake. As captain of our enterprise, it was my duty to provide maps and books, spotting scope and binoculars, etc., etc. I did so by shipping these items in advance of my arrival, and I was gratified to find these items - as well as much of my clothing for the expedition - in the capable hands of our innkeeper.
My co-captain, Rosemarie, brought medical supplies, table cloths for our picnics, itineraries, checklists of geysers and animals we hoped to view, and she also brought a wonderful sense of adventure and enthusiasm to our entire enterprise. Rosemarie and I made a foray into the heart of the city to purchase additional supplies that evening, and we spent some time in the beautiful Temple Square, the spiritual center of the Mormon nation.
Earlier that night, we had dined near our accommodations with our comrades, and after purching our additional supplies, we, and everyone else retired fairly early.
By early morning on the 25th of September, with the temperature hovering in the mid-30s, we had packed our rental van - pulled by almost 300 horsepower - with our luggage and photographic equipment. We bid goodbye to the city, and began our journey to Wonderland. (Photograph by W. H. Jackson)
The heart of Salt Lake City is its Temple Square. I made this photograph at dusk, looking south across the beautiful reflecting pool. In a few hours, we would depart the city and make our way north toward The Yellowstone, which is the perhaps the best example of the wild heart and chaotic soul underlying the true spirit of America. Would our little party of photographers be able to capture the sense of Yellowstone Country? Time would tell.
We paused to photograph an old barn, with an advertisment for Dr. Pierce's elixer for women.
The following is from the Ann Arbor Register, October 10, 1895:
The two most critical times in a woman’s life are the times which makes the girl a woman, and the woman a mother. At these times, Dr. Pierce’s Favorite Prescription is of incalculable value. It strengthens and invigorates the organs distinctly feminine, promotes regularity of the functions, allays irritation and inflammation, checks unnatural, exhausting drains, and puts the whole delicate organism into perfect condition. Almost all the ills of womankind are traceable to some form of what is known as “female complaint.” There are not three cases in a hundred of woman’s peculiar diseases that Dr. Pierce’s Favorite Prescription will not cure.
Dr. Ray Vaughn Pierce was a patent medicine salesman who operated the World's Dispensary, out of Buffalo, New York, from 1867 until 1880. Dr. Pierce graduated from The Eclectic Medical College, in Cincinnati, Ohio, and five years later became a resident of Buffalo.
The ladies in our party have never imbibed, as far as I am aware, any of the good doctor's several nostrums he marketed.
The town, founded a few years ago in 1859, and named for Ephraim Logan, a trapper of some repute, boasts a beautiful downtown, with a wide main boulevard and a splendid brick tabernacle, whcih graces the center of Logan, and is where much church activity is conducted.
The imposing Temple, predating by some years the temple in Salt Lake City, sits astride a nearby terrace, its gleaming towers towers at either end of the structure lit at night, visible for miles 'round; it is a temple built with the labor of 25,000 earnestly toiling Mormons.
Beyond Logan, we traveled up into Logan Canyon, past the intellectual center of the town, Utah State, its many edifices spread out on a hill above the city. Beyond the college, we followed the course of the Logan River through the canyon, rich with the geology of ancient times: rough flows of lava, rock towers rising most precipitously like stern battlements, then, in its upper reaches, the canyon opening into a broad valley. All the while colorful aspen and maple, as well as oaks and pines, grew in profusion.
At the top of the mountain, we reached a way station and a view down into Bear Valley, dominated by the enormous Bear Lake. While greatly reduced in numbers, great ursines still do roam these mountains and valleys, and I have even glimped, on a prior trip, amoose on the slopes east of the high point on which we now found ourselves.
Soon enough, we began our descent down a winding road to the edge of the lake, and turning north, made our way along the west shore, past old houses and a rich farmland, crossing into Idaho and joining a section of the old Oregon Trail, from whence so many settlers made their arduous way toward Oregon and California in their covered wagons.
In time, we crossed the border from Utah into Idaho. But we did not leave all of the history of Deseret behind us, for history, in the guise of the Mormons, had crossed into Idaho long before us. In the little town of Paris, which boasts perhaps 500 residents, we found oursevles admiring the impressive Romanesque architecture which forms the exterior of the grand Mormon tabernacle.
Listed in the National Register of Historic Places, the tabernacle is a monument to the pioneering spirit of the Old West. Constructed of red sandstone, brought by wagon (or sled in winter) from a quarry eighteen miles away, the ediface was consecrated by the Mormons in 1889.
We were unable to visit the interior of the building, but a tour would reputedly reveal a series of intricate wood ceilings and stone carvings.
I walked to the far end of the building, and spied a monument to one Charles Coulson Rich, who, in 1863, colonized much of Bear Valley on behalf of the Mormons. Coulson was also one of the founders of San Bernardino, California. His labors on behalf of the Mormons in Bear Valley were not easy. He had to help Mormon farmers deal with severe winters and poor harvests, and as a Mormon elder, he was instrumental in creating peaceful relations with the American Indians in the area. At his death in 1883, at the age of seventy-five, he was also known for his prodigious production of offspring (with the help of his many wives): Coulson was the father of fifty-one children and the grandfather of eighty-five.
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Focus | 27-Oct-2006 03:28 | |
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JSWaters | 11-Oct-2006 20:34 | |
Phil Douglis | 11-Oct-2006 02:40 | |