About 25 km up Sermilik – about one third of the way up the main arm of the fjord – we passed through the Sarpag channel into the head of the Ikasartivaq fjord and stopped at a seal hunting village called Tiniteqilaq which straddled the peninsula between Sermilik and Ikasartivaq. On the one side there was quiet still water, whilst on the other side there was the wide expanse of Sermilik with its massive icebergs moving slowly down the fjord towards the open sea.