Another fine day at Pleasure Point.
Started at 38s, where the action was mellow. Actually
watched a sea otter backpedal his way by whilst he enjoyed a
dinner of cracked crab. And when sea otters enjoy 'cracked'
crab, it is a literal thing. Real circle of life stuff to
witness the hermits legs flit around while the otter
bit into the shell that used to be his home.
Time to move on over to 36th Street, paddling the two
blocks into bigger and better things. Great waves. And snakes.
Not water mocassins, mind you, but drop-in artists. Every good
wave had three to five people fighting for it and at least
one that wasn't above sliding in front of someone that was already
up and riding. Those are the breaks. Those are the snakes. Not that I mind
--much. Some breaks are mellow, some are competitive.
There's always another wave.
..and there's even another shot of me, taken by Chris Nara