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Steve Roden | profile | all galleries >> travel: life around the world >> ~ travels through the Middle East & North Africa >> Iran: 9 days in Tehran tree view | thumbnails | slideshow

Bahrain | Iran: 9 days in Tehran | Iranian Governmental Murals | Jordan: Amman | Jordan: Petra | Kuwait | Libya: Gaddafi & Tripoli | Oman: Muscat | Qatar | United Arab Emirates: Dubai | UAE: at an Emirati wedding reception

Iran: 9 days in Tehran

In October 2003, I was fortunate to spend 9 days in Iran for a business trip, spending my time with a colleague originally from Iran, whose family and friends still live in Tehran.

NOTE: I combined business meetings with sightseeing (much of it from taxi windows on the way to and from meetings) and on my day off I visited Tehran Bazaar. Whilst these pictures represent a portion of Tehran's daily life, they are not necessarily representative of all aspects of Iranian life - there were plenty of new cars, people in suits, people listening to western music, and wealthy houses. It's just what *I* decided *I* wanted to photograph!

I dedicate this photo gallery to my many new friends, as thanks for their kindness and outstanding hospitality.

Please DO NOT download these images or use them without my express permission.


Additional Photography can be found by browsing this website including my Photo a Day website (one decent photo a day for 365 days.)

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This gallery makes the 'PBase.com Popular Galleries' list 10-10-03 - Mount Ararat from 30,000 feet Tehran Street Life 10-04-03 - Homecoming Dance
Chess Players Spice Shop Customers Counting Money Street Life 2
Banana Stall Carpet (detail) 10-09-03 - Bazaar Street Scene Overloaded Bike
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post a comment
Steve Roden 22-Apr-2008 10:03
Dear Persian Girl

As I have said before:

I really don't understand why some people are getting so upset about what I photographed in *Tehran*

I didn't have a choice *where* I was for this trip - I was in Tehran for business. Whilst I would have liked to have visited Estefhan, Shariz or even the countyside/ mountains outside Tehran, I didn't have the time. I was with Iranians, who I believe showed me the reality behind one aspect of life in Tehran, where people trade to make money in the bazaar, and other people visit to buy things.

I like these pictures, and so have a lot of other people. Sure, I could have taken pictures of other things - more modern buildings, people in suits - but I could do that in any other country in the world as well - so why would I bother?

Please also note that not all of these pictures come from the bazaar - some are of Shemiran, a wealthier area of Tehran, some are from streets around the centre etc
Unbelievable 29-Dec-2007 20:31
First off, the pictures are beautiful, and I think probably show an accurate representation of daily life in Tehran.

Those who are upset about you taking pictures of the "shitty" parts of Tehran are those who are probably aware of what a shameful place the whole of Iran is and don't wish for the truth of the crookedness to get out. What a beautiful and progressive city it used to be, and now it is a backwards and corrupt. The leaders and supporters of the regime that controls Iran are a blight on the goodness of what Islam truly is. How people can support these people who limit civil rights, and lie to the "West" (because we're so evil and immoral....DAMN us for wishing the world to have the freedoms we do!!) about their actions and regulations. I have so little respect for so many people in Iran. I know there are so many GOOD and truly MORAL people there are there in Iran, who, like the rest of the world, are in wonderment of how a government can be so disgustedly corrupt. I know there are plenty of them in the country, and it's a shame that they have to be scared for themselves and family. Shame on the Iranian Government. And shame on those who support it.
KEMISTRY92 27-Dec-2007 01:07
I am not Persian but want to say to any body that wants to listen to the propaganda that the west gives out and wants us to beleive about Iran well IRAN is a beautiful country with culture that no one ese could ever compare with and the people are the most kindest people you could meet..I have so much admaration for the iranian people who have so much loyalty& respect for there country and i feel so lucky that i travel there evrey year and for having such beautiful people as friends in IRAN
Reminder-of-Truth 07-Nov-2006 08:23
All social issues come with a context. Even if everyone in the world thought that all problems in Iran are because of the government, they would be wrong. These type of people like john and the long-list maker below are trying to force their ideology on Iranians, which is an evil action and does not actually in any way help the current situation improve. Why else would they take things out of context, and in fact blatantly lie about the current status of Iran. One of the most ridiculous items on the list is that Iranian cinema has become ruined under the government. Iranian cinema flourished after the government seen in the increasing number of first-place awards in global cinema.

Please take your evil propaganda elsewhere and let Iranians decide logically on their own, which is the fastest way towards improving the human rights situation. You are not our masters and forcing that idea only stalls the matter.

Va Salam
Ashley Hockenberry 26-Nov-2005 02:48
Fantastic collection of high-quality images which give a spectacular representation of the city and its people. Awesome!
Ramin 20-May-2005 08:23
Thanks for the beautiful pictures. It is obvious for those who have seen part of the world and different cultures that there is not any comparable country with Iran. Beautiful in all aspects, the country, people, culture etc. We are all proud of Iran and we know that there are many enmities against our country and people, but they forgot that today is not 100 years ago. Iranian will decide about their fate and we do not let any other countries to involve itself to our internel affair. We know and are aware of their plan and we will protect our home land. Long live our mother land (Iran and iranians).
Guest 16-Apr-2005 05:39
There are much lies and propaganda about Iran. Compared to many other countries, Iran is an independent and proud country heavily under construction and moving forward very fast. GDP grouth rate of Iran is considerably high. I live in UK and I should say security and national health service in Iran is better than here.
vahid 06-Jan-2005 06:12
Good job. Captured emotions.

(don't be dismayed by some of my countrymen's
harsh comments; Iranians are a very proud people
and feel bad and angry in general right now because of
insults coming mainly from Bush/US, axis of evil BS and his other
moranic comments,
hence the sensitive disposition to how we are portrayed in the West)
N.M. 04-Jan-2005 02:39
Beautiful pictures! Thanks!
Mehrana 25-Dec-2004 14:09
dear jeff, thanks for your comments and also for visiting my recommended photo album of iran. i agree with you and can only hope, like millions of other iranians, for peace on earth, and freedom for iranians and other nations who need it. merry christmas to all.
Amir Shams 19-Dec-2004 02:04
Very well said Guest. I am proud to say that I was born in Iran, but I feel nothing but shame towards the government that has enslaved and oppressed the wonderful Iranian people.

Its sad to see where this country has ended up and where it would have headed had it remained secular. Religion is religion, but government and economy are a science.

The mullahs will be forced to leave, by the same kind of revolution that accidentally put them in power, but before they do leave they will face justice for their crimes. You can't enslave something as great as that which is Iran forever. It is too great and has too much pride.
m16 04-Dec-2004 15:05
Hello Kharej
I think dis is a blackbord and i am veri flower
goodbye
ok
Guest 29-Nov-2004 20:48
Islamic Republic Achievements:
1. Execution, flogging, stoning and amputation of limbs in public.
2. Mass killings of political prisoners.
3. Assassination of political dissidents outside of Iran.
4. Political serial killings in Iran.
5. Construction of many new prisons holding thousands of political prisoners.
6. Political oppression.
7. Promotion of international and domestic terrorism.
8. Violation of human rights in every category.
9. Lack of civil liberties.
10. Improvement and growth of Iran's Cemeteries.
11. Killing and imprisonment of journalists.
12. Violation of women's rights.
13. Censorship and closure of publications.
14. Forcing Iranians to flee the country resorting in five million refugees throughout the world and "brain drain".
15. Oppression of religious minorities.
16. Filtering the internet.
17. Jamming out of country satellite TV and radio stations.
18. Stealing Iran's wealth by the Mullahs and transfer of funds to abroad.
19. Destruction of Iran's Economy.
20. Widespread poverty throughout Iran.
21. Severe Inflation.
22. Devaluation of Iranian Rial.
23. Increase in unemployment.
24. Increase in the crime rate.
25. Promotion of corruption, prostitution and addiction.
26. Housing crisis in Iran.
27. Malnutrition, retarded growth and increased rate of depression among Iranian youth.
28. Public health crisis in Iran.
29. Making Iran an international "embarrassment".
30. 1979 Occupation of the US Embassy in Tehran and holding hostages for 444 days.
33. Destruction of Iran's Airline Industry.
34. Causing economic sanctions against Iran.
35. Producing weapon's of mass destruction.
36. Inability to get Iran's fair share of natural resources from Caspian Sea.
37. Promoting regional conflicts in the Middle East.
38. Destruction of Iran's industries.
39. Lack of technological advancements.
40. Air and environmental pollution crisis in Iran.
41. Destruction of Iran’s agriculture.
42. Destructions of fine arts, theater, cinema and music in Iran.
43. Promoting Islamic Fundamentalism.
44. Closure of Iranian Universities under cultural revolution for three years.
45. Attacking University campuses to kill and crack down on students.
46. Violating the constitution of the "Islamic Republic".
47. Hiring hooligans to beat and crack down on Iranian citizens.
48. Improving and selling contraband by regimes elements for additional income.
49. Selling Iranian women as sex slaves in the United Arab Emarets.
Guest 29-Nov-2004 00:07
Tehran — When Friday Prayer here finishes at about two o'clock in the afternoon, hundreds of worshipers parade toward waiting buses east of Tehran University, shouting canned rhetoric against America and Israel, defining themselves by their animosity toward others. Watching this ritual, one cannot help but ask a soul-searching question: "How can such a small minority of vocal people - totally orchestrated worshipers and their security guards - set the agenda for a nation of 70 million people?"

The short answer is lack of free speech - or, more accurately, the absence of freedom after speech. The state has a monopoly on public discourse, and intellectuals, whether they are religious, atheist or agnostic, are simply not heard. The mullahs in Qom, the holy city two hours drive southwest of Tehran, can dial the phone number of any revolutionary judge in Iran and order the persecution of anyone who dares to question the authorities and their divine agenda.
jeff jordan 14-Nov-2004 20:46
To Mehrana ... You have a beautiful city!!! Just visited the link you posted, marvellous, very pretty photos.
These on pbase aren't great, but Steve is presenting an artistic statement on how he alone wants to portrait. remember many photo portraits of New York are of Harlem, ghettos etc. for artsy effect. Mainly i think all thinking people like yourself and the rest of us in just the one environment we all have (see planet earth) are these days mainlly worried about global stability - read on msn today Iran will play ball on putting halting weapons programs for other concessions - it's a start! religious radicle fundamentalism, thinking 'Allah' will protect us all and then hitting the missile silo buttons is "not" good. Atheism is what this planets' human species NEEDS right now ... to realize there is just ONE YARD! ... and we all live in that one yard (we can't get off the planet to a clean one!, right!?) - so keeping this planet clean means NO nuclear explosions! we have to have our religious 'yard fights' some other way, till we don't have yard fights any more? worried canadian who wants us, the states, iran s. arabia and ALL yard occupents to DESTROY NUCLEAR WEAPONS with perfect inter government verification - TOTAL TRANSPARENCY WHERE WE CAN ALL LOOK IN EACH OTHERS POCKETS ALL THE TIME ... we wreck this yard, and there NO MORE yards drifting around in space to run to.
John 29-Oct-2004 00:47
At the rate the Iranian government is going, one day we will be seeing photos of mushroom clouds related to Iran unless the Iranian people have another revolution soon. How about photos of Iranian jails, weapons sites, and their hateful leaders.
mehrana 25-Oct-2004 13:57
sorry ... its me again :)

i just looked at other photos from tehran, and read some of other visitor's comments ... i must admit that you have taken some very nice and vivid shots of our city. its not your fault that tehran has got some very ugly corners, as well as beautiful faces and places. i personally wish you (and other reporters) would step away from the ugly side and see and show the other side of the coin as well. is it not fair? is it too much to ask? take care and good luck....
mehrana 25-Oct-2004 13:51
hi, this is mehrana from tehran, iran. i didnt get a chance to read all comments on your page, but at a glance, i think some iranians are upset that you have mainly photographed shitty areas or cars or poor people. am i right? but this is typical of the world media too. this is what they prefer to see and show others. (i am not talking about you). may i recommend to you and all your viewers (iranians and others) to also visit these albums from iransima group for some more decent pics of the city, what you dont often see on the net .... thanks: http://community.webshots.com/user/IranSima1 all pics are taken in iran, mostly in tehran, and here is our group address if you like further discussions about this topic: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/iransima/
bob 21-Oct-2004 03:16
shut up and go to hell
nooshy 07-Aug-2004 04:04
i don't know what x-tehrani is talking about and ihave to say he needs to grow up and use nicer language!he seems to be a very angry individual:) neways i like the photos and although i agree with the comments that it mainly focuses on certain class of people...i still think they are nicely done with regards to composition and rpresentation. i haven't gone to iran for 8 years so i was hoping to see more of the younger generation of iranians and the newer architecture that has developed there.
x-tehrani 18-Jul-2004 09:50
To all of you proud tehranis that "...once lived there but now live in Canada, US etc..." who dislike Steve's pictures: If Tehran was so FUCKING great and "high class"
then why the FUCK did you move???????? And don't come whith blaming the "regim" and politics cuz you are traveling there once or twice a year whithout any problems!!!
I once lived there and i'm so fucking glad that I don't any more.
Steve, well done!
sarvinna 20-May-2004 11:41
all the photoes were nice not bad but there is something in all photoes that i found it was u were following an aim in all ur photo,that couldnt give me a good feeling ,i think u know wat im talking about,u can be more brave and write wat ever u r thinking ,any way i like the photo's steve!!!!go on but there is more beautiful things in all over iran that u could make a picture of it ,,,thank uuuuuuuuuu
Arash Hazeghi 18-May-2004 21:23
Hello Steve
your photos are truely expressive and genuine, they demonstarte frankly and accurately the over all atmosphere here in Iran, from the technical point of view they are detailed, sharp and with good color /tone
Congradulations

PS. If plan to have another trip to Iran please let me know, there some special spots which i guess will be intresting for you

i invite you to see my gallery at photosig.com
Taraneh 11-May-2004 14:03
hi there
i really liked the pix since they show your good taste in photography .
but i also hope you can have another trip to Iran to discover the beauties of this wonderland.
kiana kk 28-Apr-2004 04:21
I's true that all the pictures you took were part of the culrture and everyday life, but i'm a litle upset that you didn't take any pics of the better dressed people or the higher class houses and cars. and you'r right when you say that that would have been a regular picture like any other city and not the traditional culture, but what would another person think of you'r coutry if you had posted onley the drug users and beggers on the streets of you'r city ? i honestly don't know what you were thinking when you took those pictures of the low class houses and people,(especially the overloaded bike is not what high, middle or even some lower class citizens in iran do) but please the next time you go to iran, (if you ever do) take the pictures of the higher class malls(pasajes in farsi) not only the bazars. and please, do take pictures of the high class and middle class people too. i have lived in tehran most of my life and was there the past summer, and some things and fashions that were in then came to canada (where i live)well 4 months after. please take some time to take pics of those things and places too. good job in the bazar and the spice shops though. tanx :)
Lily 14-Apr-2004 18:02
Okay first of all, you got the worst places in Tehran, theres sooooo many better places!!!!!But some of your pictures were quite good, so congratulations on that!!! Every foreigner that goes to Tehran seems to go to the worst places, I dont know why???? Maybe you need a good guide!!!!! But as I already said, some of your pictures were great, well done!!!!
Mehrzad 14-Apr-2004 16:43
I enjoy it!
it was great dear Steve. I will be glod to see you again in my city, Tehran.

_________________________GOOD LUCK____________________
Rafig Gurbanzade 16-Mar-2004 08:44
Steve Roden, I do not know why you put Mount Ararat in your Iranian gallery. We all know that it is in Turkey and the symvol of notorious armenians.
All in all,they are good photos. I'd suggest you to go to Lankaran and take beautiful aerial pictures of this region. I recommend everyone to come to lankaran.aznet.org/lankaran,lankaran.aznet.org/lankaran/index_eng.htm,azerbaijan.aznet.org/azerbaijan/lankaran.html.







amin 13-Jan-2004 20:08
you know...
i am iranian ...
thank you from your outlook you have had from iran and it is definit from your pictures . i am iranian i live in shiraz .. i wish that it was a good trip for you .
i love you . .. come to our country again . we are needy of your help . kiss you
kazarau 11-Jan-2004 04:58
Nice Pics... I'm a newbie...Ihave travelled and didnt realized that one could take beautiful aerial pictures from the aircraft.
David Dong 03-Jan-2004 00:47
In life you can't please everyone, the images here are what * YOU * decided to capture and show, and that's what we are looking for. Thanks for these marvelous photos.
Rudy 27-Dec-2003 10:48
Hi Steve,

I really liked your pictures! I'm always browsing the internet for pictures
of places I've never been or aren't very touristy - found this very nice!
Hope you have some more.

Happy 2004!
Rudy.
Mostafa 07-Dec-2003 22:05
Very good photos. However I'd suggest you to go to Northern Tehran. I also recommend cities like Shiraz and especially our beautiful island, Kish.
But good job indeed. I would argue you as well about the taken photos, but the note on the top of the page was clear enough for me.
Amin 03-Dec-2003 10:13
Visit my gallery of digital art at http://www.pbase.com/amin_rajaee/digital_art

Amin.
www.digitalartpage.com
ali 29-Nov-2003 01:07
it is really the tehran which I remember.Don't bother about fairness about Iran some people think Iran is Wonderland ,IT IS NOT
Murray B. TOWN 25-Nov-2003 22:47
Despite the spurious comments made by others, I think you have some great frames. They are all fragments of one reality or another...despite some who would attempt to deny that. I have had the same dilemma in posting my pictures of Tirana, Albania where I lived for the last three years until 2003. They show the good, bad and yes - the ugly - which coexists everywhere (including in the UK and Canada). But they do all reflect the local reality which is uniquely Albanian. Otherwise, what's the point? Keep up the good work. Murray B. TOWN
majid soorani 11-Nov-2003 21:45
Its very goood
ali 05-Nov-2003 18:20
i used to live in tehran but not any more
u should showed the better pictures from there
Amir 31-Oct-2003 17:02
Dear Steve:

Great pictures, Please post more if you more pictures from Iran. Great job and I hope you had a good time as well.
Hmmmm 28-Oct-2003 21:05
Next time visit north and Centeral part of Tehran, it has a btter view of everything. South of Tehran is mostly the Baazaar which is well crowded and also most of industrial places are there os its not good for a tourist to visit those places because of polution u see.
Steve Roden 28-Oct-2003 12:21
A limited number of photos (the later set with copyright notices) have now been re-added.
Guest 28-Oct-2003 12:01
from Steve: Access to photos has been temporarily disabled to allow image copyright watermarks to be added.
reza 27-Oct-2003 04:23
HI MR.STEVE
you asked, why some one .....?
i just ask you a question, if it was my firs time , that i saw tehran with your pictures, was it nice introduce or not?
Kourosh 26-Oct-2003 08:29
Nice work pal.
I am from Iran and know the places very well.
I should congratulate you on your work.
Steve Roden 26-Oct-2003 07:53
I really don't understand why some people are getting so upset about what I photographed in *Tehran*

I didn't have a choice *where* I was for this trip - I was in Tehran for business. Whilst I would have liked to have visited Estefhan, Shariz or even the countyside/ mountains outside Tehran, I didn't have the time. I was with Iranians, who I believe showed me the reality behind one aspect of life in Tehran, where people trade to make money in the bazaar, and other people visit to buy things.

I like these pictures, and so have a lot of other people. Sure, I could have taken pictures of other things - more modern buildings, people in suits - but I could do that in any other country in the world as well - so why would I bother?

Please also note that not all of these pictures come from the bazaar - some are of Shemiran, a wealthier area of Tehran, some are from streets around the centre etc
reza 26-Oct-2003 03:30
i don't know what shoud i tell you....
i recommend you ,next time when you go to other cities around the world, please, please, please, ask some body ,who can take you to all nice place on that city.
im so sorry for you, be cause you went to he really nice city( tehran ) but you got kind of .... pictures,.....
and i'm sorry for any one who have been checked your site & picture....
.take my advice if you wanna do some thing try do your best, but this one in tehran you did , it was suck
Steve Roden 25-Oct-2003 20:45
as I have already said (see below) - my work represents what I saw in some parts of Tehran (the only place I went).
Prynce 25-Oct-2003 20:38
you suck. you go to this beautiful country and take pictures of the poorest and most polluted parts (bazaar) of it? how pathetic
Mojtaba 25-Oct-2003 16:31
They are nice photos and have good reflections of life in Tehran-Thanks!
Traveler 24-Oct-2003 21:06
Fair and Simple! I'm 21 and i lived in Tehran more than half of my life and (also 3 yrs in UK) . I don’t recall visiting bazaar areas myself but i believe the photos were fair, the places you visited were places you most probably counld find The typical old fashioned Iranians you were looking for .

I recommend visiting (http//www.tehran24.com)
Steve Roden 24-Oct-2003 13:07
I am not sure I understand your comments in their entirety, but I suspect that you are suggesting that my pictures are not a fair representation of life in Iran? Whilst it is true these pictures only represent part of life in Iran, they are still representative of some of what I saw in Tehran. I thought Iranian people and the country was beautiful – even if on this trip I only got to stay in Tehran, and not see outside the capital.

I was there on a business trip and as part of that trip I had one day off, when I went to the bazaar, as my host’s brother was in the carpet wholesale business and had his shop there. My host admitted he rarely went to the bazaar, as a middle-class Tehrani, but did occasionally shop there

If what you are saying is that I didn’t have the right to photograph mosques and these places, then I am sorry that you feel this way. I acknowledge that going to the mosque regularly isn’t something all Iranians do, and indeed that some Iranians follow other beliefs. My photographs of mosques portray what I saw of life on the public sphere of some parts of Iranian life.
SHG 24-Oct-2003 12:12
Well as British you have visited the places that ordinary people of Tehren never go to those places I mean mousqes for example, most of the people that go to mousqes are from the older geberation or those Bazzar scenes, I am not saying those places have nothing in Tehran's culture but they are not considered even as middle class places in Tehran! Most of the pictures u have taken are like this. And I wonder about why you have acted like this. Maybe because you are a British, At least Americans are more fair on this things. I should have taken some pictures like this while i was in Birmingham and London unfortunately I was not thinking of making a web-site then.
Colt and TRR 24-Oct-2003 06:57
Very nice photos of a land that seems so foreign to us in America. My wish is for Peace around the world so all of us can experince this great world of ours. Thanks for sharing your photos.
Farid 24-Oct-2003 01:33
Nice pictures Steve! Hope there are lots of good memories to tell the others about the true face of Iran and Iranians.Thanks for your frankness.
Steve Roden 23-Oct-2003 23:40
Nice ... any reasons Sami?
gamablou 23-Oct-2003 12:44
the pics are very nice!
you can come to iran nex time as my guest.
just contact me!
Shervin 23-Oct-2003 11:55
I'm happy you've liked Tehran. Nice photos indeed. You may be interested to see a few of my photos from Esfahan here .
Shervin
sami 23-Oct-2003 09:07
fuck you and your photos...
Steve Roden 23-Oct-2003 07:02
Thanks for the comments - I intend to visit both Shiraz and Istefhan in 2004...
Amir 23-Oct-2003 06:02
Very good pictures. Diverse subjects from daily people's life. I think you liked mostly fruit markets there.
maysam 23-Oct-2003 05:00
You just need to visit 1 city like Shiraz, Isfehan or ...
You won't forget it.
Blue Devise 21-Oct-2003 06:57
Hi
U pics is very good
Come back to iran
Bye
Amin Rajaee 19-Oct-2003 19:06
Very nice shots, Thank you Steve.
Amin Rajaee - Tehran.
www.DigitalArtPage.com
Linda Alstead 11-Oct-2003 08:25
Excellent gallery Steve - I lived in the Middle East for a couple of years and much of what you have captured takes me right back there. Very nice indeed.
PJ McKenna 11-Oct-2003 01:55
Thank you for sharing this wonderful gallery.
Don Northup 10-Oct-2003 18:26
Nice peak of Tehran.
click on thumbnails for full image