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Jim & Cynthia | profile | all galleries >> Letters from Africa - Travel Stories >> Chapter 4: Africa 2006 tree view | thumbnails | slideshow

Chapter 4: Africa 2006

A Year of 4's: 4 years, 4 friends, 4 camps, 4 leopards!
As usual, we began thinking about our next trip to Africa about 5 minutes after returning home from our previous one. We didn't really get serious until we chatted to our dear friends Ellen and Ron, who had previously mentioned that they would be interested in going to Africa with us someday. They subsequently decided that this year would be it, which was thrilling news for us.
Our discussions with Bushtracks began once again, and once again they were invaluable, providing all the help we needed with our planning.
. . . . . . .

Please see Cynthia's book of travel essays that accompany these beautiful photographs:
http://www.amazon.com/Letters-Africa-Travel-Stories-Adventuresome/dp/0595531237/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1233348001&sr=1-2
Our usual before photo (taken by Diana)
Our usual "before" photo (taken by Diana)
Getting into our limo (provided by Bushtracks as thanks for years of travel!)
Getting into our limo (provided by Bushtracks as thanks for years of travel!)
Picking up Ellen and Ron from their home
Picking up Ellen and Ron from their home
Jim at SFO, ready to check in (5 hours early)
Jim at SFO, ready to check in (5 hours early)
The girls get a pedicure while waiting
The girls get a pedicure while waiting
The gang takes the usual photo in the elevator's reflection
The gang takes the usual photo in the elevator's reflection
Cynthia calling the kids for a tearful good-bye
Cynthia calling the kids for a tearful good-bye
In Heathrow, Jim and Cyn with the usual (vodka, chocolate, and scrabble)
In Heathrow, Jim and Cyn with the usual (vodka, chocolate, and scrabble)
Getting to the airport early helped us get bulkhead seats
Getting to the airport early helped us get bulkhead seats
Ellen and Ron look comfy
Ellen and Ron look comfy
Crossing the equator!!
Crossing the equator!!
Sunrise over Zambia
Sunrise over Zambia
Our arrival at Lusaka ... on African soil once more
Our arrival at Lusaka ... on African soil once more
Yes ...
Yes ...
Organizing our luggage at Lusaka airport
Organizing our luggage at Lusaka airport
Hopping on our flight from Lusaka to Mfuwe
Hopping on our flight from Lusaka to Mfuwe
We arrive in Mfuwe once again!
We arrive in Mfuwe once again!
Enjoying the sights at the Mfuwe Lodge during transit
Enjoying the sights at the Mfuwe Lodge during transit
Into the National Park ...
Into the National Park ...
... and onto our first camp, Kapamba!
... and onto our first camp, Kapamba!
View of the main sitting room from the Kapamba River
View of the main sitting room from the Kapamba River
Welcome to our chalet at Kapamba!
Welcome to our chalet at Kapamba!
Gorgeous bedroom
Gorgeous bedroom
and, the entrance to the bathroom
and, the entrance to the bathroom
Which is lovely and elegant!
Which is lovely and elegant!
The bathroom is open towards the river
The bathroom is open towards the river
So we can have decadent baths ...
So we can have decadent baths ...
Looking out across our porch to the river
Looking out across our porch to the river
The main sitting room
The main sitting room
Complete bar (with Ollie, the host)
Complete bar (with Ollie, the host)
A perfect spot for Jim's solar panels
A perfect spot for Jim's solar panels
Going on safari!
Going on safari!
The gang and Dean, our guide
The gang and Dean, our guide
Taking a few snaps
Taking a few snaps
And videos!
And videos!
One of our safari jeeps
One of our safari jeeps
Where did the people GO?!?
Where did the people GO?!?
Into the river, of course!
Into the river, of course!
Just a normal part of the walking safaris at Kapamba
Just a normal part of the walking safaris at Kapamba
Ellen and Ron like it, too
Ellen and Ron like it, too
Watching a baboon troop cross in front of us
Watching a baboon troop cross in front of us
Lion tracks ...
Lion tracks ...
Compared to genet tracks!
Compared to genet tracks!
Stopping for snacks and tea while our scout Christian watches over us
Stopping for snacks and tea while our scout Christian watches over us
Sitting in holes made from elephant feet in mud
Sitting in holes made from elephant feet in mud
There were gorgeous bee-eaters in the lagoon
There were gorgeous bee-eaters in the lagoon
Walking back through mopane forest
Walking back through mopane forest
Checking out more tracks
Checking out more tracks
Arriving back at camp to cool, scented face cloths
Arriving back at camp to cool, scented face cloths
Off for a drive through the woods
Off for a drive through the woods
Jim is already looking bushy
Jim is already looking "bushy"
A burned area of mopane forest
A burned area of mopane forest
Christian ready with his weapon
Christian ready with his weapon
Ellen and Ron following Christian and Dean
Ellen and Ron following Christian and Dean
Our walk followed along the river
Our walk followed along the river
thorn tree (no kidding)
"thorn" tree (no kidding)
Stopping for a short break
Stopping for a short break
This is fun!
This is fun!
Sundowners IN the river!
Sundowners IN the river!
The happy couple
The happy couple
Interesting river bank on our way to our next camp ...
Interesting river bank on our way to our next camp ...
Kuyenda Camp!
Kuyenda Camp!
Our chalet is nestled in the trees
Our chalet is nestled in the trees
Welcome to our chalet at Kuyenda!
Welcome to our chalet at Kuyenda!
Our lovely bed
Our lovely bed
And the outdoor shower
And the outdoor shower
With a babe in it!
With a babe in it!
Our gracious bartender
Our gracious bartender
Our amazing cook
Our amazing cook
And our charming server
And our charming server
Delectable meals
Delectable meals
Another kind staff member with the bird bath
Another kind staff member with the bird bath
The whole gang!
The whole gang!
And the other gang
And the other gang
We decorated our hats with feathers and grasses
We decorated our hats with feathers and grasses
Jim collects wild lavendar
Jim collects wild lavendar
Isaiah, our scout, and Phil, our guide
Isaiah, our scout, and Phil, our guide
Learning a lot during our walks
Learning a lot during our walks
My handsome man!
My handsome man!
Cyn looking at birds, Ron recording it all
Cyn looking at birds, Ron recording it all
Relaxing by the river
Relaxing by the river
Phil serves us delicious tea and cookies
Phil serves us delicious tea and cookies
Wonderful tall grasses by the Luangwa River
Wonderful tall grasses by the Luangwa River
Cyn tries western medicine for the tsetse bites
Cyn tries "western" medicine for the tsetse bites
But nothing seems to help the inflammation
But nothing seems to help the inflammation
Coming across elephants on our walk
Coming across elephants on our walk
The hat is looking nice!
The hat is looking nice!
Phil demonstrates why we shouldn't drive UNDER a sausage fruit tree
Phil demonstrates why we shouldn't drive UNDER a sausage fruit tree
Jim displays his Rommel goggles
Jim displays his Rommel goggles
Phil serves us tea and cookies again
Phil serves us tea and cookies again
So sweet
So sweet
Rhino-shaped cookies
Rhino-shaped cookies
The girls climb onto the jeep
The girls climb onto the jeep
Enjoying a small gully
Enjoying a small gully
Bird watching?
Bird watching?
Shopping in the camp's shop
Shopping in the camp's "shop"
Babette decorates the table for every occassion
Babette decorates the table for every occassion
Lovely dinner table
Lovely dinner table
Elegant table setting, out under the stars
Elegant table setting, out under the stars
Cutting sausage fruit ...
Cutting sausage fruit ...
... to decrease inflammation of my tsetse bites (it works!)
... to decrease inflammation of my tsetse bites (it works!)
Our next camp: Bilimungwe! (chameleon)
Our next camp: Bilimungwe! ("chameleon")
Welcome to our chalet at Bilimungwe!
Welcome to our chalet at Bilimungwe!
This nice room has TWO beds
This nice room has TWO beds
View to our bathroom
View to our bathroom
A simple little puff adder (near our tents, yikes!)
A simple little puff adder (near our tents, yikes!)
The main bar
The main bar
Looking from the main room out over the lagoon
Looking from the main room out over the lagoon
This life is so stressful, isn't it?
This life is so stressful, isn't it?
More incredible meals
More incredible meals
Amarula sundowner preparation on the jeep hood
Amarula sundowner preparation on the jeep hood
Prince and Jim toast each other
Prince and Jim toast each other
Alfred in the kitchen
Alfred in the kitchen
Sam ironing our clothes (with hot coals)
Sam ironing our clothes (with hot coals)
Joseph preparing our dinner
Joseph preparing our dinner
Juwa serves us delicious concoctions
Juwa serves us delicious concoctions
Teddy keeps our rooms spotless
Teddy keeps our rooms spotless
The whole gang!
The whole gang!
Leopard tracks
Leopard tracks
Manda discusses dung
Manda discusses dung
While Jim records
While Jim records
Buffalo skull with horn moths
Buffalo skull with horn moths
Hippo skull
Hippo skull
Author of Letters from africa: Travel Stories from an Adventurous Soul
Author of "Letters from africa: Travel Stories from an Adventurous Soul"
The intrepid Cynthia
The intrepid Cynthia
The intrepid Jim
The intrepid Jim
Taking copious notes
Taking copious notes
Jim watching hippos
Jim watching hippos
And Cyn and Ellen love hippos too
And Cyn and Ellen love hippos too
Carefully recording for history
Carefully recording for history
Returning from a girls' errand
Returning from a "girls' errand"
Joe's Bistro that Joseph built for honored guests!
"Joe's Bistro" that Joseph built for honored guests!
JIM'S BIRTHDAY CAKE!
JIM'S BIRTHDAY CAKE!
Gorgeous sweeping views on our way out of the Park
Gorgeous sweeping views on our way out of the Park
Into the town of Mfuwe
Into the town of Mfuwe
I LOVE the kids!
I LOVE the kids!
One boy was always smiling, the other never did
One boy was always smiling, the other never did
Hair styling
Hair styling
The Mfuwe market
The Mfuwe market
Cyn buys more ibuprofen
Cyn buys more ibuprofen
Jason waving to his friends
Jason waving to his friends
Bicycles all around
Bicycles all around
Visiting Jason's house
Visiting Jason's house
Loo and bathing room
Loo and bathing room
Stopping for shopping
Stopping for shopping
Lovely batiks for sale
Lovely batiks for sale
Leaving Mfuwe airport
Leaving Mfuwe airport
On our cool plane
On our cool plane
All aboard
All aboard
Royal Zambezi airstrip
Royal Zambezi airstrip
Landing at Royal
Landing at Royal
Our jeep is waiting; we love the red dirt!
Our jeep is waiting; we love the red dirt!
Our next National Park
Our next National Park
Welcome to our chalet at Chiawa!
Welcome to our chalet at Chiawa!
Our tent is open and inviting
Our tent is open and inviting
The front porch, overlooking the Zambezi River
The front porch, overlooking the Zambezi River
Our comfy bed
Our comfy bed
Open outdoor bathroom
Open outdoor bathroom
Cyn relaxing in her bathrobe
Cyn relaxing in her bathrobe
Nice touch
Nice touch
Jim birdwatching while showering!
Jim birdwatching while showering!
The fire circle for breakfast and evening drinks
The fire circle for breakfast and evening drinks
The buffaloes arrive at siesta time
The buffaloes arrive at siesta time
Followed by an elie!
Followed by an elie!
The elephant comes right into camp
The elephant comes right into camp
He is REALLY big
He is REALLY big
A lovely champagne brunch out on the river
A lovely champagne brunch out on the river
This IS the life
This IS the life
Jim getting ready for a walking safari?
Jim getting ready for a walking safari?
Jim being Rommel again
Jim being Rommel again
Our perfect bracelets
Our perfect bracelets
The happy couple on safari
The happy couple on safari
Daniel and Cynthia relaxing
Daniel and Cynthia relaxing
Ellen and Ron enjoying a tea break
Ellen and Ron enjoying a tea break
And Cyn loves the tall grasses
And Cyn loves the tall grasses
The intent birdwatcher
The intent birdwatcher
Can't even put down her water
Can't even put down her water
Fun trip up the river
Fun trip up the river
To the Grand Canyon of the Zambezi (looks like Utah)
To the "Grand Canyon" of the Zambezi (looks like Utah)
Into a canoe!
Into a canoe!
Jim is in charge here
Jim is in charge here
While Cyn takes care of photography
While Cyn takes care of photography
Bee-eater homes along the river bank
Bee-eater homes along the river bank
Back home to Chiawa
Back home to Chiawa
Sundowners were waiting ... with Grant!
Sundowners were waiting ... with Grant!
The happy couple
The happy couple
Another birthday cake for Jim (this one is elephant dung!)
Another birthday cake for Jim (this one is elephant dung!)
Saying goodbye to Chiawa to go upriver ...
Saying "goodbye" to Chiawa to go upriver ...
Welcome to our chalet at Chongwe!
Welcome to our chalet at Chongwe!
Enticing bedroom
Enticing bedroom
Gorgeous bathroom
Gorgeous bathroom
All stone and thatch, with sky for a ceiling
All stone and thatch, with sky for a ceiling
And the elephants come right into camp
And the elephants come right into camp
(including a sick one who needed a rest)
(including a sick one who needed a rest)
View of the Chongwe River from our chalet
View of the Chongwe River from our chalet
Going on more safari drives
Going on more safari drives
Enjoying the Grand Canyon again
Enjoying the Grand Canyon again
A visit to Chongwe House up the river
A visit to "Chongwe House" up the river
Fascinating architecture
Fascinating architecture
This would be a fun place to stay
This would be a fun place to stay
A local frog (loved hearing them at night)
A local frog (loved hearing them at night)
Breakfast out by the river
Breakfast out by the river
Taking more notes
Taking more notes
Looking out at the socialized impala, Silky
Looking out at the socialized impala, "Silky"
A nice view of Silky and our tent
A nice view of Silky and our tent
Jim and Ian Scott with their HUGE equipment
Jim and Ian Scott with their HUGE equipment
Ahh, this IS the life
Ahh, this IS the life
An interrupted shower ...
An interrupted shower ...
Jim mentions there's something outside the thatch ...
Jim mentions there's something outside the thatch ...
Africa from behind!
"Africa from behind"!
Lovely red cliffs nearby camp
Lovely red cliffs nearby camp
Crawshears zebras
Crawshears zebras
g5/06/408506/3/67538533.wt2BVNTV.jpg A baby!!
A baby!!
g5/06/408506/3/67538154.bT0qHFhj.jpg
g5/06/408506/3/67538161.c7YqZCBx.jpg Another baby!
Another baby!
g5/06/408506/3/67538175.FSoQGunO.jpg Cape buffalo
Cape buffalo
g5/06/408506/3/67538351.nFiR7SN8.jpg
g5/06/408506/3/67538450.2UHxZWho.jpg Elephants!!
Elephants!!
g5/06/408506/3/67538182.FCQl9EyF.jpg g5/06/408506/3/67538185.iTyjcKsI.jpg g5/06/408506/3/67538187.24DSQTKt.jpg
 and a baby!!
and a baby!!
g5/06/408506/3/67538193.7Z4ME12S.jpg g5/06/408506/3/67538260.5j1d6710.jpg g5/06/408506/3/67538264.vu0FLJmx.jpg sand bath
sand bath
g5/06/408506/3/67538271.qWrrip5J.jpg SHOOTING water into his mouth
SHOOTING water into his mouth
Sniffing us
Sniffing us
g5/06/408506/3/67538369.NuT3uMzu.jpg  Babies tussling
Babies tussling
g5/06/408506/3/67538375.SlDFCsgs.jpg g5/06/408506/3/67538377.Hd9wOBpi.jpg g5/06/408506/3/67538379.MsqUvosI.jpg g5/06/408506/3/67538384.NAspp1wN.jpg Bluff and bluster
Bluff and bluster
Flapping ears to warn us away
Flapping ears to warn us away
g5/06/408506/3/67538392.yVRwHlOW.jpg Muddy baby!
Muddy baby!
g5/06/408506/3/67538425.w7ef6cx2.jpg g5/06/408506/3/67538428.yfCrEUOx.jpg
 Getting ready ...
Getting ready ...
... to cross the river!
... to cross the river!
Wallowing in mud
Wallowing in mud
g5/06/408506/3/67538434.oMwIwrbE.jpg g5/06/408506/3/67538437.2uFeY8po.jpg
g5/06/408506/3/67538439.oxgHtsCw.jpg g5/06/408506/3/67538442.ttr5z7QQ.jpg g5/06/408506/3/67538453.nspjCeZ4.jpg g5/06/408506/3/67538469.V85NJgjf.jpg TINY baby!
TINY baby!
g5/06/408506/3/67538973.Hqpnv2Ee.jpg g5/06/408506/3/67538976.IQtvLchf.jpg g5/06/408506/3/67539007.1dxVuZ7s.jpg g5/06/408506/3/67539048.BvvuOmOt.jpg g5/06/408506/3/67539049.kXCYDZta.jpg
Puku
Puku
g5/06/408506/3/67538158.Skrjrll3.jpg g5/06/408506/3/67538244.ASL4J3nM.jpg A baby!
A baby!
g5/06/408506/3/67538249.QLyS9dyx.jpg
g5/06/408506/3/67538256.vUqcBI6i.jpg Kudu
Kudu
g5/06/408506/3/67538152.IJAj9nDs.jpg g5/06/408506/3/67538897.cBfecCPG.jpg Impala
Impala
g5/06/408506/3/67538211.I82lkmPs.jpg g5/06/408506/3/67538213.77W4wjip.jpg g5/06/408506/3/67538221.lWt4v4ve.jpg g5/06/408506/3/67538984.HPqM3YgY.jpg g5/06/408506/3/67538830.QPrgDHVo.jpg
Waterbuck
Waterbuck
g5/06/408506/3/67539046.ucpH6KL8.jpg Bushbuck
Bushbuck
g5/06/408506/3/67538985.cgsveeSO.jpg Baboon with baby!
Baboon with baby!
g5/06/408506/3/67538177.lPcWyZwq.jpg g5/06/408506/3/67538215.40JLiZDa.jpg g5/06/408506/3/67538218.TNWfhzxc.jpg g5/06/408506/3/67538225.JPMPnrGG.jpg g5/06/408506/3/67538227.VMWrF4yc.jpg
g5/06/408506/3/67538229.WdaOcySS.jpg g5/06/408506/3/67538232.hGtMOeTk.jpg g5/06/408506/3/67538235.XgyQUJmz.jpg g5/06/408506/3/67538296.i4MdJyzp.jpg  Mating!
Mating!
g5/06/408506/3/67538759.yO6XjdUw.jpg g5/06/408506/3/67538762.EUpB4KOp.jpg g5/06/408506/3/67538800.Eck4BFhB.jpg g5/06/408506/3/67538803.21vvH8yt.jpg g5/06/408506/3/67538809.nxZb3KBj.jpg
g5/06/408506/3/67538884.GgGvxUQk.jpg g5/06/408506/3/67538889.IBDHFZZs.jpg Monkey
Monkey
g5/06/408506/3/67538240.eIQOPTKg.jpg  Eating a wild mango flower
Eating a wild mango flower
Lion!
Lion!
g5/06/408506/3/67538165.JoCzw2if.jpg g5/06/408506/3/67538332.IPmjFdPH.jpg  Eating a warthog
Eating a warthog
g5/06/408506/3/67538448.3Dudkbua.jpg
g5/06/408506/3/67538472.8Yx0eq4Z.jpg g5/06/408506/3/67539044.lkfxkkNU.jpg Flat lions?
Flat lions?
g5/06/408506/3/67538998.LwnBwwkV.jpg g5/06/408506/3/67539001.LgjZfZNH.jpg
g5/06/408506/3/67539002.mnjH8Gzg.jpg Hyena
Hyena
Leopard!!
Leopard!!
g5/06/408506/3/67538397.coccIniw.jpg g5/06/408506/3/67538401.xn9zn5ce.jpg
g5/06/408506/3/67538403.8KQN8QGv.jpg g5/06/408506/3/67538997.Vw4UQmdr.jpg Impala at night
Impala at night
Warthog
Warthog
g5/06/408506/3/67538837.hoiCUXYr.jpg
Giraffe
Giraffe
g5/06/408506/3/67538180.IpxBOrku.jpg g5/06/408506/3/67538329.VQtjwodW.jpg g5/06/408506/3/67538337.hAppxAAI.jpg Baby!
Baby!
Lots of babies!
Lots of babies!
g5/06/408506/3/67538546.mh1UScyd.jpg Crocodile
Crocodile
White-browed sparrow weaver's nest
White-browed sparrow weaver's nest
Lilac-breasted roller
Lilac-breasted roller
g5/06/408506/3/67538892.BRLmadjE.jpg g5/06/408506/3/67538132.gnL13tHh.jpg Brown-hooded kingfisher
Brown-hooded kingfisher
Francolins
Francolins
g5/06/408506/3/67538805.XQg5bDVz.jpg
Guinea fowl
Guinea fowl
Crested crane
Crested crane
g5/06/408506/3/67538772.dDY2aMlj.jpg Crested cranes flying
Crested cranes flying
Carmine bee-eaters
Carmine bee-eaters
Malachite kingfisher
Malachite kingfisher
Pied wagtail
Pied wagtail
Saddle-billed stork
Saddle-billed stork
g5/06/408506/3/67538408.m9WnTKRL.jpg Yellow-billed stork
Yellow-billed stork
g5/06/408506/3/67538455.CcnGvWjJ.jpg Goliath heron
Goliath heron
Egyptian goose
Egyptian goose
3-banded plover
3-banded plover
Crowned lapwing
Crowned lapwing
g5/06/408506/3/67538752.u0Hc93u1.jpg Lourie (go-away bird)
Lourie ("go-away bird")
g5/06/408506/3/67538755.UO7DkDpc.jpg Fish eagle
Fish eagle
g5/06/408506/3/67539036.e3O9AjRG.jpg
Jacana (jesus bird)
Jacana ("jesus bird")
Baobabs
Baobabs
g5/06/408506/3/67538953.W5aNAXz6.jpg g5/06/408506/3/67538955.8Iy3Z9Cb.jpg Scrambled egg tree
Scrambled egg tree
Sausage fruit tree
Sausage fruit tree
g5/06/408506/3/67538252.jKeHaxQz.jpg Combretum
Combretum
Flaming combretum
Flaming combretum
Wild mango tree
Wild mango tree
Hippo
Hippo
g5/06/408506/3/67538139.Y4OTUcdM.jpg g5/06/408506/3/67538141.EhWGK6Em.jpg  baby!
baby!
g5/06/408506/3/67538145.0lzbTeB9.jpg
g5/06/408506/3/67538322.Dw2NbWMe.jpg g5/06/408506/3/67538418.OWvfGM1f.jpg g5/06/408506/3/67539051.lko62pic.jpg g5/06/408506/3/67539053.8195TzO1.jpg g5/06/408506/3/67539055.QBxePzLE.jpg
Hyena at night
Hyena at night
Baby!
Baby!
g5/06/408506/3/67538282.vXB1rbtS.jpg White-tailed mongoose
White-tailed mongoose
g5/06/408506/3/67538286.XZDknWeI.jpg
Bush hare
Bush hare
Baby giraffe at night
Baby giraffe at night
Genet
Genet
Leopard at night
Leopard at night
g5/06/408506/3/67538416.F5s0sT1t.jpg
Mozambique night jar
Mozambique night jar
Pel's fishing owl
Pel's fishing owl
Waterbuck at night
Waterbuck at night
Sunsets (always fantastic)
Sunsets (always fantastic)
g5/06/408506/3/67538167.7A19OpVD.jpg
g5/06/408506/3/67538593.egUCGOEx.jpg g5/06/408506/3/67539040.Rw5DkW2F.jpg g5/06/408506/3/67538326.mbV8FVBy.jpg g5/06/408506/3/67538195.oNxlGRqd.jpg  Kalulu (the rabbit in the moon)
Kalulu (the rabbit in the moon)
Sundowners!
Sundowners!
g5/06/408506/3/67538597.q3DrctiI.jpg g5/06/408506/3/67538744.o17NUqkW.jpg g5/06/408506/3/67538971.mmULzHkk.jpg g5/06/408506/3/67538970.Z9Ogsqdf.jpg
g5/06/408506/3/67538972.PFy2NDVE.jpg Our last amarul
Our last amarul
The happy couple
The happy couple
Back at Lusaka
Back at Lusaka
Back at Heathrow
Back at Heathrow
Traditions must be repeated
Traditions must be repeated
Coming home
Coming home
We're back!!
We're back!!