Fortunate are the Buenos Aires families who own weekend cottages in the Parana delta northwest of the Argentine capital. A community of suburban and weekend homes populates the tree-lined tidal waterways which open onto the Rio Parana itself, a broad river running into the River Plate (Rio de la Plata). Residents come and go in their own speedboats or rely on a ‘river bus’ boat service that provides much slower transport.

The home at which I was a guest lies 20-30 minutes by speedboat from the mainland town of Tigre, on the outskirts of Buenos Aires. The house, a comfortable weekender in timber and corrugated iron, was first built around 1948. On busy weekends, motorboats often have to slow for rowers or to avoid raising a wake whilst passing boats loading or unloading at jetties. Tall, well-established casuarinas and other well-established trees give the delta a scenic quality lacking in Australia's man-made or mangrove-fringed waterways. Most of the homes seem to have extensive backyards,but these become waterlogged when the tide is high. In recent years mains power has replaced coal fires and kerosene lanterns, although internet connections require a 'dongle' or wireless internet card.

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