The coastal plain soon gave way to a steep walled wadi reminiscent of the gorges of Central Australia. Goats grazed and ragged children emerged, waving, from small huts of stone. Social progress was evident in the galvanized steel water tanks, provided for the Sultan's loyal subjects.

Soon the road began a steep climb into the ranges. The Land Rover came into its own on these boulder-strewn, precipitous roads, although the temperature gauge climbed alarmingly as we switchbacked to the top of the range. Huge, contorted folds of bare rock were exposed like a geological map, no vegetation veiling the outcrops. And just what did those goats find to eat?