Yes, even Bangkok has a heart. It can be found between the eastern bank of the Chao Phraya and the railway line, encompassing the original royal palace, the older temples and Pahurat and Sampeng, the Indian and Chinese districts. Only on foot can Sampeng really be savoured, in spite of manholes and motorcyclists.

In the words of a popular guidebook, Sampeng is “... a confusing and crowded array of jewellery, hardware, wholesale food, automotive and fabric shops.” If Yaowaraj and Ratchawong Roads are the spine of a piscine Chinatown then the fine herringbones are the sois and troks, the alleys and lanes. Beyond Chakrapet Road lies Pahurat, whose alleyways are crowded cheek by jowl with a Sikh temple and the fabric shops of Indian merchants.

Most images were taken with Nikon D200 or D70 in RAW format, earlier ones scanned from 35mm transparency.

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