You cannot travel this part of the world without seeing the effects of two world wars. In these wars remains of the fallen were not repatriated as they are now, rather they were buried where they fell - nine million of them in World War One alone. There are cemeteries and memorials throughout this region, but beyond the large graveyards there are small collections of war graves in most small towns. One of the striking things about these graves, whether they are in large military graveyards or in small local graveyards, is that they are meticulously maintained even 70 years later. It is a moving experience to visit these places.