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| pricklypear | profile | all galleries >> Private >> A Whirlwind UT/AZ/NV Canyon Tour | tree view | thumbnails | slideshow |
In early January 2004 I briefly considered dragging my family on a
photo-tour of some of the National Parks of the Southwest USA. I
quickly realized that there was only one family member
who had the
slightest interest in rising well before dawn, shooting pictures for a
few hours, driving frantically to the next photo op, shooting pictures
again around sunset, passing out around 8pm, then doing it all again
the next day. That family member was not our dog, nor
my wife, nor either of our kiddos. Yes, I confess, that person is me.
So I soon began planning a
solo
trip to the Southwest,
flying into Las Vegas from my home in Austin, Texas in
mid-April, a time of year I consider second only to October as the
ideal time to visit the American Southwest. What began in my mind as
just a long weekend drive from Las
Vegas to Zion and Bryce soon turned into a six-day marathon taking in
not just Zion and
Bryce, but the Valley of Fire, Red Rock Canyon, Antelope Canyon, "The
Wave" area (Coyote Buttes), and the Grand Canyon. Oh yeah, a pit
stop at Hoover Dam too - why not?
A solo trip means one can cover territory more quickly than on a
group trip, but it also means taking a conservative approach to hiking.
No
back-country hikes far from medical aid or even other hikers; just
two-to-three hour quickies at heavily travelled
locales, with plenty of water waiting in the car.
This trip report is broken down into the following sections:
Bored already? I've got an images-only version here. Enjoy!
The Valley of Fire State Park
is just a short drive northeast of Las
Vegas on the way up to Zion
National Park.
Just after landing in Las Vegas to embark on the first day of my photo-tour, I arrived at the Hertz rental lot at McCarran Airport to be greeted by a brand-spankin' new, um, Kia Sephia. Visions of Strandedness danced in my head. "Could I please have something else" I inquired. "Sure, we've got a Toyota Camry for only $15/day more sir!" came the reply. Sold!
Pointing my Camster northward, I arrived at Valley of Fire State Park in less than an hour, to be greeted by my first taste of red sandstone accented by spring wildflowers in abundance.
The loop road
entering the west side of the park is perhaps less than a 20 mile
drive, but
the return trip to get back on the highway bound for Zion was also another 20-plus
miles. On the way out, I made a pit
stop in Overton (36.53834°N W114.44252°W WGS84) to grab
some staples - deli meat, cheese, pb, wheat bread, granola bars,
crunchy salty happy snacks, water, and a picnic cooler. Oh yeah, and
some tasty chicken fingers from the deli counter. It saddens
me, though, to think of those poor chickens running around without
fingers...
The Valley of Fire was certainly a pleasant start to what would
prove to be great trip. Additional images here.
A
drive of another hundred miles or so delivered me to the southern
entrance of Zion National Park,
a park that struck me simultaneously as both jaw-droppingly impressive
yet intimate. Unlike the Grand Canyon, where you stand at the rim and
gape at the Big Hole in the Ground, at Zion you arrive at the bottom of
the canyon where you're nestled by the massive mountains around you. In
the spring especially, it's very green and positively dripping with
moisture - not what a newcomer to the area would expect to find in a
desert setting.
After
April 1st and continuing thru the busy tourist season, the only
transportation allowed in the central valley is the shuttle system.
Your ride is in a propane-powered bus (actually a medium-sized bus with
another bus-trailer attached) that runs very frequently throughout the
day. Despite having to tie the Camster to a hitching post at the Zion
Museum parking lot, my plan for Zion was to... Additional images here.
Sunrise loc.: [travel] | Mid-day loc.: Valley of Fire | Sunset loc.: Zion | Drive: 235 miles | Hotel: BW Mt.Carmel, UT

Bryce National Park, home of
the hoodoos. I knew in advance that a visit to Bryce was going to be a
memorable experience, and memorable it was. I understand there is a
least one other park in southern Utah with a small "amphitheater"
containing a number of the sandstone pillars known as hoodoos, but
Bryce is the pinnacle of That Which Is Hoodoo. It was a treat just to
gaze over the rim and listen to other first-timers approach, gasping or
blurting out an excessively loud "Oh my God!" as the panorama revealed
itself.
After freshening up at the Best
Western Ruby's Inn located just outside the park entrance, I
quickly headed to Sunset Point to take the short hike down into the
bowl on
the Navajo Trail. Despite the 8000-ft elevation of the park, it was a
warm early-spring afternoon, perhaps around 70F and
sunny. The trail proceeds through switchbacks down into a wall of rock
appropriately named "Wall Street", passing by tall, slender pines
reaching upwards to the sky and all sorts of crazy rock formations in
every shade of orange and coral imaginable. I captured some pleasing
images during the late afternoon walk but skipped sunset itself since I
was exhausted and starving.
When I returned to the hotel I learned that there was a chance of
snow overnight. I woke up around 3am and saw that the sky was
completely overcast with a light snow falling, so I turned off my
morning alarm and returned to slumberland. At 6:30am, about 1/2 hour
before sunrise in this time zone, I awoke spontaneously and saw the
snow had ceased, leaving a mixture of menacing clounds and blue
sky overhead. Oh lordy, I thought, I almost slept through what promised
to be a sunrise to remember!
And so it was, a sunrise to remember. Really the nicest one I've
ever
had the privilege of witnessing. Wisps of vapor covering part of the
amphitheater in a translucent veil. Great pillows of clouds in the
distance, with blue skies just above them, and yet another layer of
black, angry storm clouds atop it all. Sunlight streaming onto the
hoodoos, then disappearing from minute to minute. At Sunset Point
(curiously, a good place to observe sunrise) the only humans witnessing
the spectacle from 7am until about 9am were myself and two large-format
photographers from Los Angeles. We were quite cold, and
truly awestruck.
Additional images here.
Sunrise loc.: Zion | Mid-day loc.: [driving] | Sunset loc.: Bryce | Drive2: 121mi. | Hotel: BW Ruby's Inn
Hidden in the
back-country south of Rt.89 between Kanab, UT and
Page, AZ is one of the most beautiful sandstone formations you'll ever
see - "The
Wave", located in the BLM's Coyote
Buttes region.
Well, you'll see it only if you can reserve one of the ten permits per day
offered six months in advance over the Internet, or can score
one of another ten permits given out each day at 9am for the following
day. Failing that, you'll have to accept your fate, as I did, and
simply hike outside the restricted area, where you'll be treated to
some truly fantastic scenery in utter and complete solitude.
Once again while
hiking this area I was struck by my good fortune with both the weather
and the cooperative bloom of wildflowers. To the left and right are
typical examples of the floral beauty I experienced in this area. I can
strongly recommend mid-April for a visit to this area if you enjoy
wildflowers and relatively cool mid-day temps. Mornings were quite
cool, but mid-day highs were only in the 70's (F) while I was there.
Getting to the Coyote Buttes area takes a bit of planning. A good
way to orient yourself is to visit the Paria
Contact Station (37.10500°N W111.90005°W WGS84) in
southern central Utah, located near MM25 off Rt.89 west of Page, AZ.
There are plenty of topo maps available to review, and the ranger has a
binder showing the exact locations of a good many photo-ops in the
area. My pre-determined destination was about 30 miles west of Page off
of Rt.89, where there's an unmarked, graded
dirt road known as House
Rock Road (37.12658°N 111.97669°W WGS84). About 8 miles
down this road you come to a parking lot for the Wire
Pass Trailhead (37.0199°N 112.0238°W WGS84), the
gateway to both the restricted and open Coyote Buttes area.
With the initial temperature at about 50F, accompanied by
threatening clouds and a bracing wind, I began my hike towards Buckskin
Gulch dressed warmly. I hiked to
Buckskin Gulch and into its shallow slot canyon for only a short
distance, but by then the afternoon temperature had risen, rendering
me uncomfortably warm even after shedding some outer layers. So I hiked
back to
my car to change into much lighter clothes (shorts & tee with an
anorak backup), to start a new hike to the
north & east of the restricted area.
The landscape in this backcountry had no marked trails, but I had
some waypoints marked in my GPS, with a traditional compass for backup.
My backup plan, in the event of GPS/battery failure, was simply to use
the compass to head north until I hit
the Buckskin wash that runs nearly due east-west from the Wire Pass
Trailhead. In the backcountry area at the top of the sandstone hillocks
it was fairly easy to orient
oneself with the aid of distant mountains, but most of the time I was
in shallow valleys, a lost wanderer in a sandstone wonderland.
It's worth saying here that I'm not a church-goer, but as I wandered
in quiet solitiude through this astounding
landscape, I
knew that there were greater powers at work on this planet than The
Hand of Man. I only hope that some of the images I captured during this
four-hour walkabout capture that Spirit.
Additional images here.
Sunrise loc.: Bryce | Mid-day loc.: Coyote
Buttes
| Sunset loc.: House Rock Road | Drive: 182 mi.
| Hotel: BW
Page, AZ
You
may have noticed at this point that I've stayed in three different Best
Western hotels so far. If I returned to the area, I'd definitely
consider camping as both an economical alternative to hotels as well as
a way to stay more in touch with nature. However, I have no regrets
about my choice of hotels on this trip. Each of the BW hotels I stayed
in was immaculate, well-appointed, and staffed with friendly folks.
Nice to treat yourself to a hot bath after a day of hiking &
driving, too!
Just east of
Page, Arizona you'll found one of the most photogenic
slot canyons in the world - Antelope
Canyon. Lower Antelope, located on the north side of Rt.98, was a
prime destination for me personally, motivated by the stunning images
I'd been drooling over while planning this trip.
Unlike Upper Antelope, which requires a short cross-country ride on
a tourist jitney bus to reach, to get to Lower Antelope you simply
drive into the Lower Antelope parking lot, pay the Navajo attendant the
US$18.50 fee, and walk with the attendant a few yards to the opening to
Lower Antelope. Upper is more popular because it's easier to walk
through on a sandy bottom surface, whereas Lower requires a bit more
crawling and descending on short fixed ladders. Don't sweat it, though
- I wasn't sure how difficult it would be but I can assure you that if
you're not excessively "large" a person in girth and are reasonably
fit, it's
pretty easy and not claustrophic-feeling at all.
The slot canyon is really something to experience. I was surprised
how bright it was in the canyon at mid-day considering the dire
warnings I'd heard about 15-30s exposures being necessary. At ISO100,
the longest exposure I took was about 1s as I recall. You can see
exposure data on each individual image in my gallery
if you're interested in the gory details.
In Lower Antelope I tried to stay away from any direct illumination,
to avoid blown-out highlights. I left my camera in Manual mode at an
aperture of f/8-f/14 (roughly the "sweet spot" of my primes) and dialed
the shutter until the meter said exposure was hunky-dory. I reviewed
the histogram immediately and if the resulting image had any blown
highlights I'd try about a stop lower, and if the image was too dark
I'd add a stop, with the end result being an image properly Exposed
To The Right.



Famished after my mid-day shoot at Lower Antelope Canyon, I pulled
into
a Taco Bell in nearby Page for a quick carbo-load. That was the last
fast food joint I'd see for many a mile on the long, long Day 4 drive
to Grand Canyon National
Park. The scenery along the R.89 south was varied - one moment on a
long, flat open stretch of deserted road, another moment screaming thru
the twisties nestled closely by high cliffs, then in an open area again
but this time surrounded by high rocky hillsides. If only my upper back
wasn't in such a state of discomfort, I would've
been quite content with the drive. I think back on Day 1 in Zion I'd
packed too much equipment into my backpack, added a heavy tripod
outside that, then added insult to injury by leaving too much load on
the shoulder straps, too little on the waist belt. By Day 3 I was on
'round-the-clock ibuprofen, and by Day 4 the ibuprofen was having
little effect. Live & learn!
I made what can only be described as a pit-stop at "Navajo Bridge",
about a 12-mile side-trip off of Rt.89 in the direction of the north
rim of the Grand Canyon. After a few shutter-snaps and a cursory glance
at the stalls full of Navajo trinkets, I was back on the road headed
for the south rim.
Despite my backache,
I was happy to reach the east side of the Grand Canyon's south rim, in
particular the Desert
View Watchtower designed back in the depression
era by noted architect Mary Colter. You might regard it as somewhat
strange that my first description of the south rim is a reference to a
man-made (or woman-made) structure, but I have to say honestly that
after experiencing the stunning landscapes of Zion, Bryce, Coyote
Buttes, and Antelope Canyon, the Grand Canyon did not have the impact
that everyone told me it would have. Yes, it's a might big hole the
ground. Yes, mere images cannot do it justice. Yes, it is worth the
journey to witness it in person. But if I had to choose one major
canyon to pass up on a short trip to the area, I would pass up Grand
Canyon in favor of the other canyons I visited. An extra day in Zion or
Bryce, or the addition of Arches National Park or Monument Valley,
would've been a rewarding alternative to the venerable South Rim.
I
was feeling a little restless after my peanut butter extravaganza, so I
decided to stretch my legs a bit with camera & tripod in tow. I
took a few interior/exterior shots of the Bright Angel Lodge, as well
as a starlit image of Mary Colters "Lookout Studio", which is nowadays
merely another in an endless series of knick-knack shops. I took the
shot from this
location aimed roughly northwest.After a good night's sleep in a comfortable lodge, I awoke just
before 5am for my sunrise shoot. Given how difficult it was to find
parking near the Bright Angel Lodge, I considered taking the shuttle
out to Yaki
Point (36.0586°N, 112.0838°W WGS84)for my sunrise shoot
rather than giving up my precious
parking spot. But I wasn't certain when or where I'd need to catch this
shuttle so I loaded my gear into the Camster and headed eastward. After
a short drive, maybe five miles, I was pleased to see only one empty
car parked on the main
road at the bus-entrance to the Yaki Point area. It was still
pretty dark, about a half-hour before sunrise, when I began the 0.75mi,
flat hike to Yaki.
The eastern sky had a dull orange/coral glow when I arrived at Yaki
Point. It was around 35deg.F, but completely still, no breeze at all. I
was completely alone initially, but after a few minutes, with the
sun still not over the horizon, I heard the shuttle bus roll up to the
point and then a young couple joined me to take snapshots & watch
the sunrise.
It was a fairly uneventful sunrise - pretty, just a little hazy, but
nothing spectacular. Again I'll say that the view is Quite Grand, but
somehow not as inspiring to me personally as sunrise at Zion or Bryce.
More Grand Canyon images can be found here.
The
long drive from the Grand Canyon to Las Vegas is broken up by a
pit-stop at Hoover Dam.
It's a breathtaking view descending from the high canyon south-east of
the
dam, but unfortunately my after-5pm arrival prevented me from taking a
tour of the facilities. Oh well, I'll have to content myself with the
endless Discovery Channel and History Channel documentaries on the dam
construction.
A couple of additional images of Hoover Dam are located here.
Sunrise loc.: G.C. Yaki Point | Mid-day loc.: [driving] | Sunset loc.: Hoover | Drive: 311 mi. | Hotel Courtyard MarriotAfter a long day of driving, I arrived at my hotel
in Las Vegas at around
7pm. My primary goal for my last day of landscape photography was
a sunrise shoot at Red
Rock Canyon, just west of the city. I was pretty exhausted from the
previous five days of shooting and after a hot bath I pretty much
passed out in my room, stone cold sober, by around 9pm.
I woke up with a start around 4am and
realized it was probably the ideal time for a little low-light
photography on The Strip. Once I dressed, grabbed my gear, then drove
downtown, I realized I'd only have about an hour to take some snapshots
before racing to Red Rock Canyon for my sunrise session. I took a few
obligatory shots from the street, and also managed to park at the New
York / New York and Paris casinos as a base for a few more photographs.
The rest of my night-shots from The Strip can be found here.
The last location on my
itinerary was a small Nevada State Park located just a few miles west
of downtown Las Vegas, Red
Rock Canyon. I sped thru the pre-dawn streets of Las Vegas and
arrived at the gates of the park about five minutes before it opened at
6am. After paying my entry fee, I realized I was only moments away from
sunup, so I pulled
off the circular park drive no more than 1/4-mile inside the gates
(36.1417°N, 115.4279°W WGS84), and began shooting.Sunrise loc.: Red Rock Canon | Drive: 60
mi. | Mid-day loc.:
[return flight home]
There is so much inspirational photography available both at bookstores and on the 'net, it's hard to single out just a few links. With apologies to the 99.9% of photographers I fail to mention, allow me to list a few links to some truly awe-inspiring images of the Southwest USA.
What can I say? One morning many moons ago I followed a link from a photo-forum, expecting to see some dull images showing off the Sigma Foveon sensor. Instead what I found are some of the most gorgeous Utah/Arizona canyon imagery I've seen anywhere on the web, with full-sized originals available for the viewing. Just stunning. Thanks so much for sharing these, Rick!
Mahesh posts over on fredmiranda.com as thapamd - don't miss a single one of his posts in FM's Landscape forum.
Brian gets the most stunning results with his Canon
Powershot G2. Don't miss this gallery.
Exceptionally good descriptions of scenic areas on the Colorado Plateau. Recommends the optimal time of day and which lens to use for each location. Invaluable.
So many hikes, so little time.
Since my trip was so brief, I used
this extensive guide simply to find very short but scenic day hikes
near the areas through which I planned to travel. Someday I hope to use
this great book for longer hikes in Canyon Country.
This text may be hard-to-find, possibly out of print. It's a great guide if you happen to stumble over it at a used-book store.
The author pre-planned this trip extensively using Microsoft MapPoint
2002 for drive-times, Delorme TopoUSA 4.0
for detailed topographic and trail analysis, and Garmin MapSource (MetroGuide
and Topo)
for GPS waypoint & map management. The author navigates with a
handheld Garmin
Legend GPS and a modicum of cursing.
Email the author for GPS coordinates in EasyGPS format, or a full set of routes & waypoints in Garmin MapSource format.
Text and Images ©2004 Zapped. All Rights Reserved.