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Paul Meskill | profile | all galleries >> Olympus c-2100uz MODE DIAL "DIY" REPLACEMENT tree view | thumbnails | slideshow

Olympus c-2100uz MODE DIAL "DIY" REPLACEMENT


This project started out with the intent of having a UZI Parts Camera that I
had won on a bid at eBay. After I received the "broken for parts camera" and
looking it over, I decided to try and repair it. It was in other respects a
nice looking camera. Since then I have ordered a new Mode Dial assembly from
Olympus. This gallery is to show my taking apart of the camera to get to the
broken Mode Dial. I will add to this gallery when the replacement part arrives
and then the reassembly with some pictures and a few notes.

Hope this is some help to others. I have had a ball taking it apart.


References:
http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/Oly2100/files
(you must be a member to this tech. group in order to view files)
View the .pdf file labeled "c2100 Cutaway & Parts List"

Here is what you will need to do this part replacement, plus a few
of my notes. A very clean, dust free, well lit work table. I used a
card table, washed down,two desk lamps and a "Foamie" 9 x 12 pad to
rest the camera on. A 2mm Phillips type Jewelers type screwdiver.
( mine came in a set from Radio Shack. Under $5.00)
A long nose very fine plier and a small twezer to handle screws.A
tray or some means to hold and identify all the screws that are removed.
I used an old IceCube tray and some Avery Products color dots to color
code the Ice_Cube tray and the also the place on the camera where the screw came from.
A new Mode Dial Assembly from Olympus Parts. (mine cost $27.30 + $5.00 ship)

Maybe I took to much of the camera apart, but I wanted to be able to clean and
generaly look the camera over. Always wondered what was inside.

Before we start to take the camera apart, a few comments:

When I mention the left side of the camera, this as if you were holding the camera and
taking a picture.Be very careful in handling the screws. They are very small and if you
drop one on the floor you will wish you had not done so. If after you think you have all
the screws out and a cover does not come off, look for another screw you may have missed.
DO NOT PRY ANYTHING.

To Start: Remove the batteries and the memory card.

Then I removed as may screws as I could find that looked like they held
the Top Cover on. At each screw I removed, I color coded it position and
placed it in the tray. I ended up with (27) screws. (9) Black and (17) Silver.
Again I probably took stuff off where it was not needed.

There is more information on each of the following pictures.
Click on a picture for a larger view.




This is the way the camera came to me.
Note! The top of the Mode Dial is missing. 
it was lost at the time of the
accident that caused this damage. 
Later pictures show the damage to the 
Mode/Switch assembly.
Prior to disassembly.
This is the way the camera came to me.
Note! The top of the Mode Dial is missing.
it was lost at the time of the
accident that caused this damage.
Later pictures show the damage to the
Mode/Switch assembly.
I used an old ice-cube tray to hold the different screws. See the little colored dots in the different compartments.These dots are also on the camera as I removed the screws. The screws are all the same diameter but are in different lengths.There are silver color ones and black color ones. There are (3) different lengths of the silver ones with a total of (17). The black screws there are (3) different lengths for a total of (9) screws. Some of the screws are machine screw thread and some are self thread for plastic so keep them sorted out. I used a 2mm Phillips driver and the long fine nose plier was used to dis-connect the cables.There are two cables to dis-connect. One at the Mode Dial assembly and one from the back of the camera
My Setup for the UZI Mode Dial Knob Repair
I used an old ice-cube tray to hold the different screws. See the little colored dots in the different compartments.These dots are also on the camera as I removed the screws. The screws are all the same diameter but are in different lengths.There are silver color ones and black color ones. There are (3) different lengths of the silver ones with a total of (17). The black screws there are (3) different lengths for a total of (9) screws. Some of the screws are machine screw thread and some are self thread for plastic so keep them sorted out. I used a 2mm Phillips driver and the long fine nose plier was used to dis-connect the cables.There are two cables to dis-connect. One at the Mode Dial assembly and one from the back of the camera
A corner of the ice cube tray.
You can see the color dots better
in this photo.
Parts Tray.
A corner of the ice cube tray.
You can see the color dots better
in this photo.
This is what I took off.
Maybe too much?
Found the two broken rivets laying in the case
from the destroyed Mode/Switch knob.
In this picture is the Top, Back, the EyePiece, 
the ID plate from the bottom of the camera and
the left side cover door. The mangled part is the 
remains of the old Mode Dial.
Removed outer parts.
This is what I took off.
Maybe too much?
Found the two broken rivets laying in the case
from the destroyed Mode/Switch knob.
In this picture is the Top, Back, the EyePiece,
the ID plate from the bottom of the camera and
the left side cover door. The mangled part is the
remains of the old Mode Dial.
This is held with two screws and was the first part I took off.
Plan on doing a cleaning prior to the re-assembly.
Eye piece
This is held with two screws and was the first part I took off.
Plan on doing a cleaning prior to the re-assembly.
I think this was the next part I removed. ( the cover door) This is held with three screws. 
Not shown in this photo, is the ID plate on the bottom of the camera. Held with four screws.
As a added note, loosen the small black knob over the flash port to remove the back and this door.
Left Side with door removed.
I think this was the next part I removed. ( the cover door) This is held with three screws.
Not shown in this photo, is the ID plate on the bottom of the camera. Held with four screws.
As a added note, loosen the small black knob over the flash port to remove the back and this door.
If you have all the screws removed the back should 
come right off.Do not pry. I also unpluged the ribbon 
cable from the circuit board as I did not wish to break 
any wires etc. in handeling. In this picture, you can see 
some of my little colored dots so that I can try and get 
all the screws back in their right spots.
Camera Back.
If you have all the screws removed the back should
come right off.Do not pry. I also unpluged the ribbon
cable from the circuit board as I did not wish to break
any wires etc. in handeling. In this picture, you can see
some of my little colored dots so that I can try and get
all the screws back in their right spots.
Note the shape of the recess for the Mode/Switch Knob.
This Knob assembly is held in place with a screw in 
the center plus a special black color plastic clip. 
The next picture shows this clip. This clip is installed 
from the underside of this cover at the little rectangle hole. 
The other slot to the left of the recess is for the cable.
Hard to see in this photo, but the AEL button shows. This
is held in place with a screw. If you took it off like I
did put it back on.
Top cover
Note the shape of the recess for the Mode/Switch Knob.
This Knob assembly is held in place with a screw in
the center plus a special black color plastic clip.
The next picture shows this clip. This clip is installed
from the underside of this cover at the little rectangle hole.
The other slot to the left of the recess is for the cable.
Hard to see in this photo, but the AEL button shows. This
is held in place with a screw. If you took it off like I
did put it back on.
See previous picture. This clip is to help retain the Mode Dial.
Retaining Clip Mode Dial.
See previous picture. This clip is to help retain the Mode Dial.
This is a reference picture for later?
Note the connector just to the right of 
the screw head.and almost to the top of 
the camera. (circuit board)
This is the connector for the cable that 
is on the back cover.
UZI with covers off.
This is a reference picture for later?
Note the connector just to the right of
the screw head.and almost to the top of
the camera. (circuit board)
This is the connector for the cable that
is on the back cover.
Note under the white panel on the circuit board
is the connector for the ribbon cable from the
Mode/Switch Knob.
Top right.
Note under the white panel on the circuit board
is the connector for the ribbon cable from the
Mode/Switch Knob.
You can see the connect (white) for the Mode Dial Cable
The other cable shown is for the Zoom Knob? 
Now if you have to replace the Zoom Knob, remove
the hand grip cover(two screws on the face near the lens)
Then you will see the screws for the Zoom Knob. Remove
one screw from the corner of the circuit board to help
with routing the ribbon cable.
Top Right Mode Dial Area
You can see the connect (white) for the Mode Dial Cable
The other cable shown is for the Zoom Knob?
Now if you have to replace the Zoom Knob, remove
the hand grip cover(two screws on the face near the lens)
Then you will see the screws for the Zoom Knob. Remove
one screw from the corner of the circuit board to help
with routing the ribbon cable.
About in the middle of the picture (top/bottom)
and on the far left is the connect point for the 
cable to the back of the camera.
Close-up Back of Camera
About in the middle of the picture (top/bottom)
and on the far left is the connect point for the
cable to the back of the camera.
What ever hit this knob broke the top completely off.
The fellow that I bought the camera from told me he 
could not find it. I did find two of the little rivets 
used to hold the assembly together. They were on top of 
the circuit board. I think there are supposed to be four 
rivets? The other two must have fallen off since the accident.
Broken Mode Dial
What ever hit this knob broke the top completely off.
The fellow that I bought the camera from told me he
could not find it. I did find two of the little rivets
used to hold the assembly together. They were on top of
the circuit board. I think there are supposed to be four
rivets? The other two must have fallen off since the accident.
Received the new Mode Dial from Olympus Parts.
Ready to mount it to the Top Cover.
New Mode Dial
Received the new Mode Dial from Olympus Parts.
Ready to mount it to the Top Cover.
The failure point for all the Mode Dials 
that show that Mode Dial dangle.
is at the (4) very tiny Rivets that hold
this assembly together. At least in all
that I have seen. So treat your UZI with 
gentle handling.
Mode Dial Notes
The failure point for all the Mode Dials
that show that Mode Dial "dangle".
is at the (4) very tiny Rivets that hold
this assembly together. At least in all
that I have seen. So treat your UZI with
gentle handling.
Note that the Mode Dial assembly is put on to the 
cover from the top side, with the ribbon cable thru 
the slot in the cover. There are two small protrusions
and a rectangular block cast on the black plastic 
bottom of the Mode Dial assembly for orientation. 
Then put a screw in the center and tighten.Then the plastic keeper
Mode Dial Asembled to Top Cover.
Note that the Mode Dial assembly is put on to the
cover from the top side, with the ribbon cable thru
the slot in the cover. There are two small protrusions
and a rectangular block cast on the black plastic
bottom of the Mode Dial assembly for orientation.
Then put a screw in the center and tighten.Then the plastic "keeper"
The Top Cover is the first piece to put 
back on to the camera. This can be a lesson
in frustration or at least make you wish you 
had many hands.
The first thing that I did was to clean the 
LCD Top Screen on the camera, then cleaned the 
inside glass of the top cover. Handle with care
after this cleaning No Fingerprints Allowed.
Then it is time to re-attach the ribbon cable to its
connector keeping in mind the routing for the cable.
Then tilt/wiggle the cover and at this time open the Flash
Door and feed the Top Cover tab thru the opening, so
that the tab and screw align inside the flash compartment. 
Handle with care, keep in mind that you do not want to break 
the ribbon cable or disconnect it. Again keep your fingers 
off the LCD and the glass. This is the hardest part of the 
whole assembly, but take your time and you will get there.
Top Cover back on.
The Top Cover is the first piece to put
back on to the camera. This can be a lesson
in frustration or at least make you wish you
had many hands.
The first thing that I did was to clean the
LCD Top Screen on the camera, then cleaned the
inside glass of the top cover. Handle with care
after this cleaning "No Fingerprints Allowed".
Then it is time to re-attach the ribbon cable to its
connector keeping in mind the routing for the cable.
Then tilt/wiggle the cover and at this time open the Flash
Door and feed the Top Cover tab thru the opening, so
that the tab and screw align inside the flash compartment.
Handle with care, keep in mind that you do not want to break
the ribbon cable or disconnect it. Again keep your fingers
off the LCD and the glass. This is the hardest part of the
whole assembly, but take your time and you will get there.
Here is the order I put the camera back together 
after the top cover was on. 
Install the side door that covers the input/output
stuff. Remove the little cover cap over the Flash Port
and set it aside for a bit.
Next I did some more cleaning. The LCD screen and the 
inside of the glass on the back cover of the camera. Again 
keep your finger off. Then I plugged the ribbon cable
from the back of the camera into its connector. Wiggle
the back until you get it back on, it has to tuck in under 
the cover on the right side and match up with the side
door on the opposite (left side) of the camera. 
I have not mentioned that you should be putting some screw
in to hold things. My practice is to never tighten screws
until I have things in place.
Then I put on the bottom plate and the eye-piece.
Hope all of the above is clearer than Mud. If not give 
me an Email.
All back together.
Here is the order I put the camera back together
after the top cover was on.
Install the side door that covers the input/output
stuff. Remove the little cover cap over the Flash Port
and set it aside for a bit.
Next I did some more cleaning. The LCD screen and the
inside of the glass on the back cover of the camera. Again
keep your finger off. Then I plugged the ribbon cable
from the back of the camera into its connector. Wiggle
the back until you get it back on, it has to tuck in under
the cover on the right side and match up with the side
door on the opposite (left side) of the camera.
I have not mentioned that you should be putting some screw
in to hold things. My practice is to never tighten screws
until I have things in place.
Then I put on the bottom plate and the eye-piece.
Hope all of the above is clearer than "Mud". If not give
me an Email.
Put in (4) 2000ma batteries and a 16mb memory card.
Now how is that for confidence in my work? If it 
screwed up, I had no desire to wreck a 128mb card.
Turned the little tab to on and much to my surprise
the camera came alive.
My poor dog is still recovering from a hard New Year's eve
so I took his picture.
One little item I did not mention. At this point with the 
camera working, I still had three tiny screws left over.
As a result I took the back partialy off and found where 
in my haste to get the back assembled, I had left them off.
Now I have no parts left over, the camera works. What 
more can I ask for?
Fired Up. (hard to believe)
Put in (4) 2000ma batteries and a 16mb memory card.
Now how is that for confidence in my work? If it
screwed up, I had no desire to wreck a 128mb card.
Turned the little tab to on and much to my surprise
the camera came alive.
My poor dog is still recovering from a hard New Year's eve
so I took his picture.
One little item I did not mention. At this point with the
camera working, I still had three tiny screws left over.
As a result I took the back partialy off and found where
in my haste to get the back assembled, I had left them off.
Now I have no parts left over, the camera works. What
more can I ask for?
This is the only mark that I have
found on the camera. It does not
effect the operation of the camera
in any way. Filters and Aux. lenses
fit the way they should. Lens and 
LCD are clear of scratches.
Nose Ding
This is the only mark that I have
found on the camera. It does not
effect the operation of the camera
in any way. Filters and Aux. lenses
fit the way they should. Lens and
LCD are clear of scratches.
This and the next picture were taken with
this repaired camera. I am most pleased with
how this project turned out. I have checked 
all the menu items over, the camera seems
to be OK as far as focus, both at W and T.
I did a pixel re-map, set the time and date.
The only mark on the camera is the one shown 
above which when the filters are on, can hardly be seen.
Ashley with the repaired UZI
This and the next picture were taken with
this repaired camera. I am most pleased with
how this project turned out. I have checked
all the menu items over, the camera seems
to be OK as far as focus, both at W and T.
I did a pixel re-map, set the time and date.
The only mark on the camera is the one shown
above which when the filters are on, can hardly be seen.
Again, Ashley is still resting. Some times a soft growl
and also some feet twitch as a result I think of a dream.
Hope you enjoyed this gallery, I had fun doing it and
the result of being able to put a classic camera
back into service again was very rewarding.

How about you? Ready to give it a try?
Ashley as a Macro
Again, Ashley is still resting. Some times a soft growl
and also some feet twitch as a result I think of a dream.
Hope you enjoyed this gallery, I had fun doing it and
the result of being able to put a classic camera
back into service again was very rewarding.

How about you? Ready to give it a try?
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