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Karma-Dharma Photography | profile | all galleries >> Bhutan - May 2004 - Oct 2004 >> The 10 day Mount Jhomlhari/Chomolhari Trek, ( literally "Jomo Goddess' Mtn") tree view | thumbnails | slideshow

A Trip to Bumthang (Central Bhutan) | The 10 day Mount Jhomlhari/Chomolhari Trek, ( literally "Jomo Goddess' Mtn") | Taksang Sanctuary("Tiger's Nest), Paro Valley, 2 visits | Dzongs(Citadels), TrashiChhoe(Thimpu), Paro, Punahkha, WandiPhodrang Drukyel(ruin) & Trongsa

The 10 day Mount Jhomlhari/Chomolhari Trek, ( literally "Jomo Goddess' Mtn")

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This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-Noncommercial-No Derivative Works 2.5 License.

Victor Chan's Tibet Pilgrimmage book: "Mountains were used by heavenly beings as vehicles to enter the world, 7 of Tibet's early kings descended via them, also the mountain personifies the soul(la) of the communities that worship them as ancestral deities/the male aspect, the soul of an individual might reside in a turquoise stone worn around the neck"

The Trek

Day 01 : Paro - Shana
Drive to Drukgyel Dzong, at the end of valley. Trek begins from this place, it goes upstream of Paro river, through villages, gradually ascending to 2,580 m at Shana camp. Walking time 5/6 hours.

Day 02 : Shana - Soi Thangthangkha 20km, 7/8hours
The trail again follows Pa Chu (Paro river), ascending and descending through pine, oak and spruce forests.

Day 03 : Soi Thangthangkha - Jangothang 19km,7/8hour
The path ascends for a while till you reach the army camp. Then follow the river above the tree line enjoying the stunning view of the surrounding peaks.
Day 04 Acclimation, Day Hike to base of Jomolhari
Day 05 : Jangothang - Lingshi 18km,7/8 hours
The trail follows the stream for half an hour and crosses the bridge to the rightside. Start the climb upto the first ridge with a breathtaking view of Chomolhari, Jichu Drake and Tsrim Khang. Then walk towards the valley, almost flat for a while, until the climb to the Nyele la pass at an altitude of 4,700m.

DAY 06 : Lingshi - Shodu 22km, - 8/9hours

The path follows the stream up towards the valley opposite the Dzong, gradually ascending through the valley for about four hours until the stiff climb at the pass..

Day 07 : Shodu - Barshong 16km, - 6/7hours
At this place, one comes back to treeline. The path follows Thimphu river, descending through rhododendron, juniper and other alpine forests. The view of the cliff facing rocks and waterfalls is stunning.

Day 08 : Barshong - Dolamkencho 15km,5/6 hours
The route descends through alpine forests and once again join Thimphu river for a while. After lunch climb up to Dolamkencho camp at the altitude of 3,600m. Walking time 5/6 hours.

Day 08 : Dolamkencho - Dodena - Thimphu 8km,3hours
The trail goes in and out of side valleys above Thimphu Chu, making a long ascent through a forest of conifers and high altitude broadleaf species to a pass at 3,510m. The trail then drops steeply to the river and follow it southward to the roadhead at dodena, elevation 2,600m where you will be picked up by Worldways Counterpart in Bhutan transport to drive to Thimphu.
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Day 1, lunch break @ funky chorten
So far, 531 tourists have trekked the Paro-Jomolhari trail this year, according to records with TCB. 
2008
so 1000/year to jomo base camp, how many to lingshi and beyond, not sure maybe less than 1/2, so 250/year may do this trek?
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Day 1, lunch break @ funky chorten
So far, 531 tourists have trekked the Paro-Jomolhari trail this year, according to records with TCB.
2008
so 1000/year to jomo base camp, how many to lingshi and beyond, not sure maybe less than 1/2, so 250/year may do this trek?

telephoto view from Soi Thangthangkha, Camp 2, Day 3
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telephoto view from Soi Thangthangkha, Camp 2, Day 3

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the kiwis, where the trees start to thin out, and i first saw a yak and yak calf, on way to Jangothang Camp
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the kiwis, where the trees start to thin out, and i first saw a yak and yak calf, on way to Jangothang Camp

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Finally @ Jangthang, next day, rest day, and day hike to foot of the goddess mountain
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Finally @ Jangthang, next day, rest day, and day hike to foot of the goddess mountain

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one of 2 or 3 'terminal morraine' the end of previous glacier debris fields, we climbed up this one on the 1st days partial day hike up to the mountain from jangotang campground. the british dr.tom and his wife alex
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one of 2 or 3 'terminal morraine' the end of previous glacier debris fields, we climbed up this one on the 1st days partial day hike up to the mountain from jangotang campground. the british dr.tom and his wife alex

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Jomolhari Base Camp, 15000 feet plus
Bhutan

Jomolhari Base Camp, 15000 feet plus

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jichu drake appears for few seconds, last village at top end of paro valley, climbing out from jangothang, up to the 1st high pass, nyile la, no turning back if altitude sickness occurs
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jichu drake appears for few seconds, last village at top end of paro valley, climbing out from jangothang, up to the 1st high pass, nyile la, no turning back if altitude sickness occurs

Blue Sheep 
 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Himalayan_blue_sheep
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Blue Sheep

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Himalayan_blue_sheep

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last scree slope up to nyile la, looking back towards jomolhari
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last scree slope up to nyile la, looking back towards jomolhari

NYILE LA, 16000ft+ HIGH PASS IN GOOGLE EARTH LINK, CLICK ME
After Ngile La, I started to notice that my eyes were getting better, the pain and swelling lessening. For the first time I found myself dawdling, the beauty of Bhutan confronting me at every turn. Gaping beauty that only seemed to get more transcendent the farther I went. I'd think I'd seen it all, couldn't possibly take in any more, only to climb the next hilltop, turn round the next bend, and see something even more spectacular, more dizzying to the senses. My mind wanted to capture it all somehow. And so my futile attempts to take pictures, to preserve it and take it home. But I just ended up cursing my camera. A one-dimensional photo could do no justice to the country, couldn't make any of it last.

Then I saw the tiny fortress, Lingshi Dzong, sitting on a hilltop before the great audience of the Himalaya. I stopped. For some reason I never quite understood, I sat down and wept. Maybe it had something to do with the starkness of the distances, with the dramatic vying of sunlight and storm. Or perhaps it was subtler, harder to explain. As if, in that ancient dzong—that speck of human proclamation sitting before the indifferent valleys and rise of the Himalaya—it was my own voice calling out into the void. I found myself making an appeal of grief about my brother, who'd had his own history, his stories. What would happen to them now? Where do they—where do any of our stories—go?

Lingshi Dzong—for centuries a way station for weary travelers and Buddhist pilgrims, a defense against Tibetan and Mongol hordes—just sat there fearlessly proclaiming its own story to the vast, empty indifference before us. A rainbow erupted from it, arching over the valley and reaching toward the mountains opposite. Such indescribable beauty. But no way to keep it.

A few days later, near Lingshi Dzong, the Snowman would take its first casualty of the year: A 42-year-old American woman, trekking in the group just behind ours, succumbed to altitude sickness. Our guide would later say someone should have seen the signs, known how to save her.
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NYILE LA, 16000ft+ HIGH PASS IN GOOGLE EARTH LINK, CLICK ME
After Ngile La, I started to notice that my eyes were getting better, the pain and swelling lessening. For the first time I found myself dawdling, the beauty of Bhutan confronting me at every turn. Gaping beauty that only seemed to get more transcendent the farther I went. I'd think I'd seen it all, couldn't possibly take in any more, only to climb the next hilltop, turn round the next bend, and see something even more spectacular, more dizzying to the senses. My mind wanted to capture it all somehow. And so my futile attempts to take pictures, to preserve it and take it home. But I just ended up cursing my camera. A one-dimensional photo could do no justice to the country, couldn't make any of it last.

Then I saw the tiny fortress, Lingshi Dzong, sitting on a hilltop before the great audience of the Himalaya. I stopped. For some reason I never quite understood, I sat down and wept. Maybe it had something to do with the starkness of the distances, with the dramatic vying of sunlight and storm. Or perhaps it was subtler, harder to explain. As if, in that ancient dzong—that speck of human proclamation sitting before the indifferent valleys and rise of the Himalaya—it was my own voice calling out into the void. I found myself making an appeal of grief about my brother, who'd had his own history, his stories. What would happen to them now? Where do they—where do any of our stories—go?

Lingshi Dzong—for centuries a way station for weary travelers and Buddhist pilgrims, a defense against Tibetan and Mongol hordes—just sat there fearlessly proclaiming its own story to the vast, empty indifference before us. A rainbow erupted from it, arching over the valley and reaching toward the mountains opposite. Such indescribable beauty. But no way to keep it.

A few days later, near Lingshi Dzong, the Snowman would take its first casualty of the year: A 42-year-old American woman, trekking in the group just behind ours, succumbed to altitude sickness. Our guide would later say someone should have seen the signs, known how to save her.

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kiwi mike and his chugo-eating brokpa wife
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kiwi mike and his chugo-eating brokpa wife

Economy of Yak Herders, Bhutan Studies
Yak Herder Woman near Tserim Kang Mtn./Lingshi Valley

Economy of Yak Herders, Bhutan Studies

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