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22-SEP-2003

A lovely cruise to Beaufort, SC (story)

We had a lovely short cruise on Rosita last weekend (Sep. 20-24, 2003). Our group had just finished a major project on Friday and we were starting three months of 6 day work-weeks on Monday. Since I would have Wednesdays off I asked for Monday and Tuesday off before plunging into the new work schedule.

Suddenly, I had a five day vacation. Rosita had no “must do” items to be completed before she could go sailing. I called Ginny and she managed to get Monday and Tuesday off for a “family emergency.” She had a commitment Saturday night, but when she arrived Sunday afternoon, I had Rosita ready to go.

We cleared the lock at Windmill Harbor by 3:00 PM and I said, “Let’s go to Beaufort!” We first motored through Skull Creek for about an hour. Ginny laughed remembering our first time in Skull Creek. Our friend, Jimmy, had reset the depthsounder and instead of sounding an alarm at eight feet, it read ZERO at eight feet depth. Where there was 12 to 15 feet of water, I was reading four to seven feet. What a crooked wake we left as I hunted for the deep part of the channel fearing we were about to run aground any second.

This time, with the depthsounder reading correctly, we were relaxed and shedding worries rapidly. As we entered Port Royal Sound we raised the mizzen and main and unfurled the genoa. With all sail set, Rosita eagerly tacked into the last of the incoming tide.

I was again pleasantly surprised at her turn of speed and tacking ability. I researched the Allied Princess design before I bought Rosita, and I was led to believe that she would be tender, a little slow, and sail poorly to weather. I bought her because she was in the best shape for what I could afford. But here she was easily reaching hull speed in 10-12 knots of wind and tacking within 100 degrees with her well used and imperfectly set sails. An occasional touch of the wheel kept her on course and the high bow kept us dry. I was pleased.

We were grinning and enjoying the beautiful weather. With the high tide we were able to cut well inside the marker for Beaufort River and save a little time. We fell off onto a close reach and really began to move through the water, although with a more relaxed feeling now that we were not heeling as much. The sun was setting just as we left the shipping channel which turned up Battery Creek to Port Royal while we continued up Beaufort River.

In the twilight we set the anchor in 20 feet along the eastern shore. As I grilled some chicken, we watched the stars come out. I thought about those poor sailors up north already hauling their boats out. This is the perfect sailing season on the Carolinas.

Monday morning was calm and misty as we motored the rest of the way up the river to Beaufort. I highly recommend a visit to Beaufort (byu-fort) if you come down the ICW. There is a nice 140 foot courtesy dock beside the City Marina on the waterfront. You can’t stay overnight at the courtesy dock but there is plenty of anchoring room. The tidal current can run about two knots which gave me a little exercise as I rowed back to Rosita after lunch.

The neighborhoods near the waterfront are loaded with Southern charm. Huge spreading oaks dripping with Spanish moss next to palm trees grace grand town manors dating from the early 1800s. The city museum gives an overview of the town’s history which includes Indians, settlers (French, Spanish, and English), pirates, cotton plantations, slavery, wars and politics. We enjoyed Kuba, a shop specializing in genuine African artifacts. LyBensons Gallery & Studio had a captivating exhibit of paintings inspired by scenes from Confederate bills promoting slavery. Both places welcomed us even though they knew we were only there to look.

I can also recommend Hemingway’s Restaurant owned by Andina Foster, a frequent participant on the Cruising World Bulletin Board. Andina also produces several electronic items for West Marine including an excellent Battery Combiner. She was very helpful when I was installing mine. She stopped by and shared some personal stories from her life and cruising in their 72’ steel ketch, Yandina. We enjoyed meeting her.

Tuesday dawned with an occasional light drizzle. As the stove sputtered out the last of the alcohol, we decided to move Rosita to the courtesy dock. A quick (but desperate) search for coffee brought us to Luther’s on the waterfront for breakfast. We had one last walk around the neighborhood before we reluctantly began the trip back.

Catching the last of the tide, we ghosted down the river to Port Royal Sound. The sun gradually came out giving us the chance to dry out the sails. Turning upwind we lazily motored up the Sound while I furled the sails. We spotted a turtle (probably a leatherback) and guessed that it was lunching on some of the drifting jelly fish. As always when we rounded Dolphin Head, we got a good look at some dolphins swimming alongside.

After a good Mexican dinner at Mi Tierra on Hilton Head Island, Ginny had to leave. She called on her way across the bridge and found that we were both admiring the beautiful sunset.

I stayed overnight and spent the morning getting Rosita ready for an extended leave. There was a lump in my throat as I walked down the dock. I would miss her for the next few months. “But, at least,” I told myself, “the heavy overtime will help to pay off the loan and make her completely mine.” I’m in love with the old girl.

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Curtis 06-Jun-2010 23:29
I live on Port Royal with a birds eye view of the ICW I face the south and can see the travelres heading to beaufort from the south. It is truly a charming village and with a great dinning spot at the 11 street grill. Boaters have pleanty of room to tie up for some grub. A bit pricey but great fair. Just past the restraunt on your north bank is a good hook spot. Cheers.