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Krakow 2012

we're back again...
we're back again...
...this time staying in an apartment in this historic building
...this time staying in an apartment in this historic building
though there are many such buildings to choose from here
though there are many such buildings to choose from here
Krakow has many monuments to famous Poles...
Krakow has many monuments to famous Poles...
...in all branches of human endeavor
...in all branches of human endeavor
right off, we head for the archives...
right off, we head for the archives...
...again looking for info on Marla's great-great-aunts
...again looking for info on Marla's great-great-aunts
the records lead us to a school where one of the sisters taught
the records lead us to a school where one of the sisters taught
and Marla can walk the same halls where she once did
and Marla can walk the same halls where she once did
here's a building which housed a business owned by a friend's family
here's a building which housed a business owned by a friend's family
well, we weren't expecting this!
well, we weren't expecting this!
a guided tour of Kazimierz by our friends Witek, Ania, and Zuza
a guided tour of Kazimierz by our friends Witek, Ania, and Zuza
kerosene lamps at this hostel recall their invention by Ignacy Lukasiewicz
kerosene lamps at this hostel recall their invention by Ignacy Lukasiewicz
the Corpus Christi church
the Corpus Christi church
it's an entire art history course on one wall
it's an entire art history course on one wall
a nautical theme in the pulpit design
a nautical theme in the pulpit design
best to avoid the temptations of the deep...
best to avoid the temptations of the deep...
now we're out on plac Wolnica
now we're out on plac Wolnica
a separate city in the 14th-c., Kazimierz is now part of Krakow
a separate city in the 14th-c., Kazimierz is now part of Krakow
hmm... where to eat lunch?
hmm... where to eat lunch?
we decide to head across the Wisla to the Podgorze district
we decide to head across the Wisla to the Podgorze district
and then back again to Kazimierz
and then back again to Kazimierz
now we're at the St. Stanislaus Church at Skalka...
now we're at the St. Stanislaus Church at Skalka...
...also known as the Church on the Rock
...also known as the Church on the Rock
many famous Poles are remembered here...
many famous Poles are remembered here...
...quite a few of whom are entombed in the crypt below
...quite a few of whom are entombed in the crypt below
out in the light again, here's part of the ancient Kazimierz city wall
out in the light again, here's part of the ancient Kazimierz city wall
down by the river, a strange rabbit and friends
down by the river, a strange rabbit and friends
Wawel castle seen from the riverside walk
Wawel castle seen from the riverside walk
heading toward old town
heading toward old town
these two seem concerned about the building's structural integrity
these two seem concerned about the building's structural integrity
the Saint Andrew church
the Saint Andrew church
(Krakow has over 100 active churches)
(Krakow has over 100 active churches)
the gardens of the archeology museum
the gardens of the archeology museum
here's the church of St. Francis of Assisi...
here's the church of St. Francis of Assisi...
...brilliantly decorated by Stanislaw Wyspianski
...brilliantly decorated by Stanislaw Wyspianski
although the previous painters weren't bad either
although the previous painters weren't bad either
in a branch of the national art museum, at the Cloth Hall
in a branch of the national art museum, at the Cloth Hall
the Temptation of St. Anthony, by Lucjan Wendrychowski
the Temptation of St. Anthony, by Lucjan Wendrychowski
a self-portrait by Anna Belinska-Bohdanowiczowa
a self-portrait by Anna Belinska-Bohdanowiczowa
on the old market square
on the old market square
there are historic traces everywhere in town
there are historic traces everywhere in town
there's that dang rabbit again
there's that dang rabbit again
we are with Witek and Ania again, now in Nowa Huta
we are with Witek and Ania again, now in Nowa Huta
the town was buit by the Soviets as a model city, to support the giant new steel mill
the town was buit by the Soviets as a model city, to support the giant new steel mill
it's a landmark of Socialist Realism
it's a landmark of Socialist Realism
the existing layout and building blocks closely follow the long-term design plan
the existing layout and building blocks closely follow the long-term design plan
the tram to the former steel works
the tram to the former steel works
we take a short trip out to 14th-c. Niepolomice
we take a short trip out to 14th-c. Niepolomice
the town still has a lovely central park...
the town still has a lovely central park...
...and a preserve of historic buildings
...and a preserve of historic buildings
the castle has been converted into an art museum
the castle has been converted into an art museum
what the castle looked like before rehabilitation
what the castle looked like before rehabilitation
it's good to have an art historian with us!
it's good to have an art historian with us!
some interesting older houses in town...
some interesting older houses in town...
...one of which is now a bakery
...one of which is now a bakery
Ania knows where the town's Jewish cemetery is...
Ania knows where the town's Jewish cemetery is...
...though the associated community is gone
...though the associated community is gone
back in Kazimierz, we meet Scottish documentary filmmakers at the Galicia Jewish Museum...
back in Kazimierz, we meet Scottish documentary filmmakers at the Galicia Jewish Museum...
...and visit a photo exhibit on the work of Ze'ev Aleksandrowicz
...and visit a photo exhibit on the work of Ze'ev Aleksandrowicz
it covers his shots of Krakow and Palestine from the 1930s
it covers his shots of Krakow and Palestine from the 1930s
Marla gives a lecture at this museum soon after...
Marla gives a lecture at this museum soon after...
...and a week later at the Krakow JCC...
...and a week later at the Krakow JCC...
...gives another lecture on a related topic
...gives another lecture on a related topic
it's May 3rd - Constitution Day!
it's May 3rd - Constitution Day!
now we're visiting the main building of the National Museum in Krakow
now we're visiting the main building of the National Museum in Krakow
there's an exhibit on the work of pop artist Lucjan Mianowski
there's an exhibit on the work of pop artist Lucjan Mianowski
elsewhere in the museum, artifacts from past centuries...
elsewhere in the museum, artifacts from past centuries...
...including a curious back-to-back double violin...
...including a curious back-to-back double violin...
...and a nice collection of door hardware
...and a nice collection of door hardware
the museum also has a large collection of Judaica
the museum also has a large collection of Judaica
and old photos of synagogues now inactive or lost
and old photos of synagogues now inactive or lost
back in the main modern art section, large stained-glass designs by Jozef Mehoffer
back in the main modern art section, large stained-glass designs by Jozef Mehoffer
and Wyspianski's design for glass at the Wawel cathedral, based on the legend of Princess Wanda
and Wyspianski's design for glass at the Wawel cathedral, based on the legend of Princess Wanda
it's a nice day for a walk in the Planty Park around the old town
it's a nice day for a walk in the Planty Park around the old town
a tribute to harmonious relations with Lithuania
a tribute to harmonious relations with Lithuania
here's the Palace of Art...
here's the Palace of Art...
...itself a fine example of the Secessionist style
...itself a fine example of the Secessionist style
inside, a series of temporary exhibits
inside, a series of temporary exhibits
this one on the photography of architecture
this one on the photography of architecture
we seem to have a bit of art on exhibit at the back of our apartment building also
we seem to have a bit of art on exhibit at the back of our apartment building also
on another nice day, we head off with friend Alex for a walk along the Wisla
on another nice day, we head off with friend Alex for a walk along the Wisla
and a dinner among friends visiting from L'viv
and a dinner among friends visiting from L'viv
the market square at night
the market square at night
again with Alex, we return to the Podgorze area to see the Ghetto Monument
again with Alex, we return to the Podgorze area to see the Ghetto Monument
and to visit the historical museum at Schindler's factory
and to visit the historical museum at Schindler's factory
the main exhibit focuses on Krakow under the WWII occupation
the main exhibit focuses on Krakow under the WWII occupation
Germans toppling the Mickiewicz monument in the market square
Germans toppling the Mickiewicz monument in the market square
building the ghetto wall
building the ghetto wall
a wartime city map is on the ceiling; there's our apartment building
a wartime city map is on the ceiling; there's our apartment building
and a familiar photo is in the rotating display
and a familiar photo is in the rotating display
next door, the Krakow modern art museum
next door, the Krakow modern art museum
the current exhibits include sports-themed art
the current exhibits include sports-themed art
these players each wear a jersey with a quote from a modern artist
these players each wear a jersey with a quote from a modern artist
no comments, please
no comments, please
again!
again!
walking the streets of Podgorze
walking the streets of Podgorze
here's the early 20th-c. St. Jozef church
here's the early 20th-c. St. Jozef church
and the well-named Chapel on the Rock
and the well-named Chapel on the Rock
this poor woman spent most of the day modeling for cameras
this poor woman spent most of the day modeling for cameras
now we're deep under the old town market square...
now we're deep under the old town market square...
...visiting the remains of a much-older cloth hall
...visiting the remains of a much-older cloth hall
archaeologists have uncovered nearly-intact streets from the 14th-c...
archaeologists have uncovered nearly-intact streets from the 14th-c...
as well as an easily-recognizable early version of what's overhead today
as well as an easily-recognizable early version of what's overhead today
quite a few cultural artifacts have been found as well
quite a few cultural artifacts have been found as well
along with a few former inhabitants
along with a few former inhabitants
the museum is spectacular...
the museum is spectacular...
...but the effort to create it no less stunning
...but the effort to create it no less stunning
here's the house museum of Jozef Mehoffer
here's the house museum of Jozef Mehoffer
his former house is filled with his designs and completed pieces
his former house is filled with his designs and completed pieces
along with much of his furnishings
along with much of his furnishings
designs for stained glass...
designs for stained glass...
and examples of smaller (room-sized) works
and examples of smaller (room-sized) works
the house is accompanied by a pleasant garden
the house is accompanied by a pleasant garden
today there is a children's concert
today there is a children's concert
now we are visiting the Museum of Municipal Engineering!
now we are visiting the Museum of Municipal Engineering!
there's a good display of the tram system over the years
there's a good display of the tram system over the years
some sights in the historical items...
some sights in the historical items...
...are easily recognized today
...are easily recognized today
besides the trams, there's further transportation displays (here, the Warszawa 200, from 1957)
besides the trams, there's further transportation displays (here, the Warszawa 200, from 1957)
a good display on the history of the Fiat manufactured in Poland...
a good display on the history of the Fiat manufactured in Poland...
...including these little gems
...including these little gems
the door to this oddity is in front
the door to this oddity is in front
the start of the Polish motorcycle industry
the start of the Polish motorcycle industry
elsewhere the museum has an amazing collection of printing machines...
elsewhere the museum has an amazing collection of printing machines...
...including this music printer
...including this music printer
now, which tram takes us home?
now, which tram takes us home?
we pay another visit to the new Jewish cemetery...
we pay another visit to the new Jewish cemetery...
...to consider ideas for projects elsewhere
...to consider ideas for projects elsewhere
then on the street again to view the temporary art exhibits
then on the street again to view the temporary art exhibits
here's another, at the Ethnographic Museum
here's another, at the Ethnographic Museum
a remarkable collection by the American photographer Sally Mann
a remarkable collection by the American photographer Sally Mann
her show is called The Family...
her show is called "The Family...
...and the Land
...and the Land"
the Euro 2012 football matches are starting; we have to rig a better TV antenna
the Euro 2012 football matches are starting; we have to rig a better TV antenna
this little one was born while we were living here; she'll still be here when we come back!
this little one was born while we were living here; she'll still be here when we come back!