our trip starts in historic Bayeux... |
...home of the famous tapestry |
historic houses and buildings abound |
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around every corner is something ancient... |
...here, a gallo-roman wall beneath the ground |
but there are also many reminders of WWII |
at the romanesque-gothic cathedral... |
...vestiges of structure date from the 12th to 15th centuries |
inside, memorials to France's WWI dead and the British troops who fought here in 1944 |
delicate stone reliefs distract us... |
...and even remind us of the opposite of war |
time for a stroll through the old city streets |
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it seems pretty quiet... |
...but at least a few citizens are on watch |
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here's the park where deGaulle spoke to the French people soon after D-Day |
this is one of many British military cemeteries in Normandy |
here, more than 4500 British and Commonwealth soldiers were buried... |
...along with a smaller number of Allies and Germans... |
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heading back into town at dusk... |
...it's pretty easy to keep our bearings |
even after dark, getting around on foot is easy |
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and if we get lost, there are helpful guides |
the next day, we head first to Juno Beach near Courseulles-sur-Mer... |
...where Canadian and British troops fought to take or destroy the guns in the eastern half of the invasion |
then we head west to Longues-sur-Mer... |
...where a battery of several guns rises out of the mist |
Tom stands over 6ft; these guns were huge |
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and in the surrounding area, underground communications boxes are still here |
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from Longues, we drive to the American military cemetery near Colleville-sur-Mer |
about 40% of the American troops who fell in Normandy on D-Day and the difficult weeks which followed are gathered here |
the view out to Omaha Beach from the cemetery is foggy and quiet today |
more than 9000 graves are here... |
...and a memorial for more than 1500 forever missing |
many visitors leave markers... |
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a small chapel stands at the center of the site |
the ceiling mosaic depicts America sending a soldier ready to fight... |
...and France embracing a fallen one |
we visit Omaha Beach and then walk the battle-scarred bluff above Pointe du Hoc |
the Pointe was the site of a fierce cliff-face battle on D-Day... |
...for the capture of these gun placements |
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from the installation... |
...the view over the Pointe and across the channel is long... |
...and the guns would have had wide coverage of the coastline |
our day ends at the German military cemetery near La Cambe |
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over 20,000 soldiers lie here, killed in Normandy on and after D-Day |
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some soldiers had yet to reach 18 years; others remain unidentified |
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night falls as we depart |
the next day, we head for Utah Beach and its museum and memorials near La Madeleine |
in the museum, some of the large equipment used in the landing |
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this nasty little thing was a remote-controlled mobile bomb |
French-language information dropped by American planes to encourage people in the occupied towns |
detailed photos of all the landing sites were prepared in advance via dangerous spy missions |
here's a display on the FAFL, French air forces which also supported the D-Day landings |
here's some incentive to get the war over ASAP |
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these dresses were made for young French girls from US parachute cloth, and worn for celebrations one year after D-Day |
a Sherman tank at the museum site |
'kilometer zero' at the Utah Beach landing site: start of the 1944 Liberty Way |
the Utah Beach memorial stands on the site of a captured gun placement, turned Allied communications post |
everywhere in Normandy, French gratitude to American and Allied troops was and remains very strong |
Utah Beach is rather placid now |
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the small town of Ste-Marie-du-Mont was a complex battle site for paratroopers following D-Day |
today the town square remembers the time with many markers |
every other house seems to have its own story |
this water fountain was used as shelter by a US marksman during the fight for the town |
even with its long history, this town remembers its liberation most |
nearby Ste-Mère-Église was also a target for paratroopers... |
...one of whom got stuck for a few hours |
the days of battle are remembered in the church windows |
looking at old photos around town... |
...it's not hard to see the town as soldiers did... |
...and we wonder what other stories these streets know... |
...or for that matter, all the towns on the Cherbourg peninsula |
the next day, the sky is clearer and we return to Arromanches near Gold Beach |
there are still relics of the 'Mulberries' which made up the artificial harbor of Port Winston |
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scars and fragments of war structures remain even up on this cliff |
down in the town, the history museum has pieces of machinery... |
...and pier parts brought from England in June 1944 |
pier pontoons and other hulks dot the beach and harbor |
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heading southwest toward Bretagne, we stop at the German ossuary near Huisnes-sur-Mer |
the remains of some 12,000 WWII soldiers were brought here from around France |
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still too foggy to see Mont St. Michel |
we'll end our trip at the Caen Memorial and Peace Center |
the museum starts its story with the end of WWI and the build-up into WWII |
it of course covers the usual suspects... |
...but branches to discuss economic pressures, collaboration in all forms... |
...resistance in many forms... |
...and the response to resistance around Europe... |
...propaganda by all involved governments... |
...extermination of Jews... |
...and Roms... |
...and communists |
the D-Day story is told again, with some new images and info for us |
1945 is marked by a study of destroyed cities... |
...including London... |
...and Caen, where the memorial is now |
it's a topic much too large for one visit... |
panorama of the American military cemetery near Colleville-sur-Mer |