 it's getting late when we cross the Dniester river from Ukraine into Moldova, with Alex and Vitaly |
 but we arrive quickly at Soroca, where Marla's Blecher ancestors lived |
 our first stop is the 16th-c. Soroca Fortress... |
 ...originally built under Moldova's Stephen the Great |
 a picturesque site for celebrations |
 then up to the Candle... |
 ...to take in views of the Dniester... |
 ...and across the river to Ukraine |
 Alex and Vitaly compete for low-light photography |
 the next morning, we start at the synagogue |
 Mr. Wexler greets us for a tour |
 he is a prominent local businessman, and looks after the Jewish buildings and cemetery |
 inside the synagogue |
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 in the women's section, with a view into the main hall |
 the library, with books on Jewish topics... |
 ...and about the history of the Soroca community |
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 Mr. Wexler also shows us an index to the graves in the Jewish cemetery |
 #63 on this list is Ida Blecher; we have no direct records, but she may have been a relative |
 we follow Mr. Wexler to the cemetery |
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 it is surprisingly large, and filled with markers and memorials |
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 here is a monument to the victims of the Shoah, noting the towns where they died |
 now we are off to see graves of people with names linked to Marla's relatives |
 here's Ida Blecher... |
 ...Alex spots this Schwartzman stone as we pass... |
 ...another group of Schwartzmans, from the index... |
 ...and a Schwartz family |
 elsewhere in the cemetery, Mr. Wexler shows us a memorial to victims of a killing at a Soroca bridge |
 the group discusses the wartime history of the town |
 a last look over the cemetery before we go |
 then a brief visit to the bridge where local Jews died in the war |
 Mr. Wexler also has good ties with the local Romani community... |
 ...and takes us on a tour of their neighborhoods... |
 ...to see their unique domestic architecture |
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 the facade of this house is styled after the Bolshoi ballet house |
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 a passer-by points out some special features to Vitaly |
 these two houses incorporate a dollar-sign logo into their fence |
 this one features a missile on the upper balcony |
 we are greeted warmly in the neighborhood |
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 this building was once a synagogue |
 Marla discusses the neighborhood's past with a resident |
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 the range of styles is remarkable |
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 then Mr. Wexler introduces us to the head of the Romani community, at his home |
 Artur is working to provide higher-level schools for his community; we are charmed |
 Artur is also a collector of porcelain sculptures... |
 ...and a talented musician! |
 finally it is time to head back to Ukraine |
 pano: Dniester river from the fortress |
 pano: Dniester river from the Candle |