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nuthatch | profile | all galleries >> Ukraine >> three days in Odessa tree view | thumbnails | slideshow

three days in Odessa

we arrive on the overnight train from Lviv, to find...
we arrive on the overnight train from Lviv, to find...
...sycamores and interesting architecture
...sycamores and interesting architecture
first stop is the JCC Migdal, not far from the train station...
first stop is the JCC Migdal, not far from the train station...
...where we get a tour and intro to the JCC's work by Jenny
...where we get a tour and intro to the JCC's work by Jenny
then off into the streets
then off into the streets
surprisingly, this little building was a site of the pioneering early-Zionist Odessa Committee
surprisingly, this little building was a site of the pioneering early-Zionist Odessa Committee
the former stock exchange building
the former stock exchange building
a view of the opera house as we head for our hotel
a view of the opera house as we head for our hotel
here's the hotel, a historic 'passage' complex of shops, offices, and lodging
here's the hotel, a historic 'passage' complex of shops, offices, and lodging
still very elaborate inside
still very elaborate inside
but there are other remarkable buildings, even just across the street
but there are other remarkable buildings, even just across the street
we drop our things at the hotel and head into the City Garden...
we drop our things at the hotel and head into the City Garden...
...a favorite meeting place in the downtown
...a favorite meeting place in the downtown
off again, heading toward the opera house
off again, heading toward the opera house
another view of the house, built in the 1880s
another view of the house, built in the 1880s
we pass thru the city hall area, a large park and promenade
we pass thru the city hall area, a large park and promenade
Mercury, one of the symbols of the city...
Mercury, one of the symbols of the city...
...like the anchor, representing the port
...like the anchor, representing the port
here's Pushkin, a much-loved visitor (and briefly a citizen)
here's Pushkin, a much-loved visitor (and briefly a citizen)
walking down the tree-lined cliff-top Prymorsky blvd
walking down the tree-lined cliff-top Prymorsky blvd
a glass case in the walkway protects remnants of a Greek settlement from the 4th-c. BC
a glass case in the walkway protects remnants of a Greek settlement from the 4th-c. BC
the harbor end of Katerynynska street
the harbor end of Katerynynska street
Marla with friend and guide Alex at the top of the Potemkin Stairs
Marla with friend and guide Alex at the top of the Potemkin Stairs
the Duc de Richelieu waves as we start down the steps...
the Duc de Richelieu waves as we start down the steps...
...across the cargo rails to the waterfront
...across the cargo rails to the waterfront
Ernst Neizvestny's Golden Child, in the golden sunset
Ernst Neizvestny's Golden Child, in the golden sunset
yacht harbor at the end of the working pier
yacht harbor at the end of the working pier
a monument to sailor's wives and families, looking out to sea
a monument to sailor's wives and families, looking out to sea
now we head back up the Potemkin Stairs (we'll take the funicular)
now we head back up the Potemkin Stairs (we'll take the funicular)
night falling on Prymorsky blvd
night falling on Prymorsky blvd
a last look over the port before heading off to dinner
a last look over the port before heading off to dinner
the next morning, we head up Preobrazhenska street, to a corner where there was a photo studio around 1905...
the next morning, we head up Preobrazhenska street, to a corner where there was a photo studio around 1905...
...either in this building...
...either in this building...
...or in this one, the Lichtenberg studio took a baby picture of Marla's grandfather's first cousin Sam
...or in this one, the Lichtenberg studio took a baby picture of Marla's grandfather's first cousin Sam
hmmm... no hard evidence, but it might have been here
hmmm... no hard evidence, but it might have been here
in the streets again to see the sights
in the streets again to see the sights
a quieter and less ostentatious neighborhood
a quieter and less ostentatious neighborhood
the bookseller's market (Jay is looking for a particular novel in Russian)
the bookseller's market (Jay is looking for a particular novel in Russian)
the 19th-c. Choral synagogue, converted to a sports hall under the Soviets...
the 19th-c. Choral synagogue, converted to a sports hall under the Soviets...
...now serves as a house of prayer, study, and community once again
...now serves as a house of prayer, study, and community once again
the Brodsky synagogue, from the 1860s, remains a state archive since just after the 1917 revolution
the Brodsky synagogue, from the 1860s, remains a state archive since just after the 1917 revolution
continuing on...
continuing on...
here is Catherine square; Great Kate is standing on her favorite, Potemkin
here is Catherine square; Great Kate is standing on her favorite, Potemkin
one of many memorials around the city
one of many memorials around the city
on Sabaneiv Bridge street, a crumbling beauty
on Sabaneiv Bridge street, a crumbling beauty
up ahead, Gogol street, with many architectural gems
up ahead, Gogol street, with many architectural gems
here's a house Gogol himself occupied in 1850-51
here's a house Gogol himself occupied in 1850-51
this seems like a genuine investment opportunity
this seems like a genuine investment opportunity
let's check it out...
let's check it out...
hmmm... Gogol's back yard!
hmmm... Gogol's back yard!
an interesting structure in the yard next door
an interesting structure in the yard next door
a view back at Gogol's house
a view back at Gogol's house
seems peaceful enough here
seems peaceful enough here
out on the street again...
out on the street again...
...we meet a wandering poet, who composes on the spot for 'Malka'
...we meet a wandering poet, who composes on the spot for 'Malka'
the monument to an orange (sorry, the story is too long for a caption)
the monument to an orange (sorry, the story is too long for a caption)
Teschin (mother-in-law) bridge, one of the longest in Odessa
Teschin (mother-in-law) bridge, one of the longest in Odessa
love locks with a view
love locks with a view
on Prymorsky blvd again...
on Prymorsky blvd again...
...it's time for a refreshing cup of kvas!
...it's time for a refreshing cup of kvas!
then, to the museum complex for a variety of local history
then, to the museum complex for a variety of local history
in the scupture park, Marla checks out Rabinovich the tailor
in the scupture park, Marla checks out Rabinovich the tailor
yes, the varenyky in this city are excellent
yes, the varenyky in this city are excellent
an interesting small collection of local history, mostly conveyed via old photos, posters, currency, etc.
an interesting small collection of local history, mostly conveyed via old photos, posters, currency, etc.
here's a portrait by the Lichtenberg studio!
here's a portrait by the Lichtenberg studio!
as are the two in the upper corners...
as are the two in the upper corners...
...and this one!  but, no new info we can use to help our search
...and this one! but, no new info we can use to help our search
back on the boulevards
back on the boulevards
here's the regional history museum
here's the regional history museum
symbols of the city in a 19th-c. mansion
symbols of the city in a 19th-c. mansion
the museum holds maps, models, and documents representing many periods of struggle for control of the city
the museum holds maps, models, and documents representing many periods of struggle for control of the city
here's a great display on the building of the opera house
here's a great display on the building of the opera house
and a memento of the Brodksy synagogue
and a memento of the Brodksy synagogue
a contemporary local view of the Russo-Japanese war
a contemporary local view of the Russo-Japanese war
heading down the great staircase
heading down the great staircase
now we're in the museum of WWII...
now we're in the museum of WWII...
...which focuses on the city's efforts to defend itself from repeated attack and occupation
...which focuses on the city's efforts to defend itself from repeated attack and occupation
an Underwood typewriter from the era
an Underwood typewriter from the era
and now we're in front of the small but good local Jewish museum
and now we're in front of the small but good local Jewish museum
that's Sholem Aleichem standing
that's Sholem Aleichem standing
some less happy memories
some less happy memories
finally today we visit Arkadia park on the Black Sea
finally today we visit Arkadia park on the Black Sea
some mural art on the walk down to the water
some mural art on the walk down to the water
and at last, we reach the Sea...
and at last, we reach the Sea...
...for a glass of wine on the beach sands with Alex...
...for a glass of wine on the beach sands with Alex...
...a nice way to end the day
...a nice way to end the day
next morning, we head for the historic Moldavanka district
next morning, we head for the historic Moldavanka district
a memorial to Jews killed and transported from this area in WWII
a memorial to Jews killed and transported from this area in WWII
the trees memorialize non-Jews who sheltered and saved Jews during the war
the trees memorialize non-Jews who sheltered and saved Jews during the war
this hospital served the district's Orthodox Jewish community and others before the revolution...
this hospital served the district's Orthodox Jewish community and others before the revolution...
...and continues to serve the community today
...and continues to serve the community today
much of the city was built of shellstone quarried under the streets
much of the city was built of shellstone quarried under the streets
beyond the often elegant facades, the buildings behind are usually more humble
beyond the often elegant facades, the buildings behind are usually more humble
rear of a facade building
rear of a facade building
not all the facade buildings are surviving
not all the facade buildings are surviving
meanwhile, across the street...
meanwhile, across the street...
now we take a stroll through the Trete (3rd) Jewish cemetery
now we take a stroll through the Trete (3rd) Jewish cemetery
many of the gravesites are very overgrown
many of the gravesites are very overgrown
a memorial to the victimes of the 1905 pogrom
a memorial to the victimes of the 1905 pogrom
now we are back in town at the historic Pryvoz market
now we are back in town at the historic Pryvoz market
Marla and Alex with two market regulars
Marla and Alex with two market regulars
this market has long been known for its fishmongers
this market has long been known for its fishmongers
crayfish resting under a rug
crayfish resting under a rug
let's try another part of the market
let's try another part of the market
here, salted, smoked, and dried fish reign
here, salted, smoked, and dried fish reign
the market complex includes many structures like this
the market complex includes many structures like this
our appetites are ready for a local specialty: bull-headed 'bychky' (goby)
our appetites are ready for a local specialty: bull-headed 'bychky' (goby)
then back to downtown for a last tour of the streets
then back to downtown for a last tour of the streets
the Trinity orthodox church
the Trinity orthodox church
at Odessa's large university complex
at Odessa's large university complex
finally, we rest on the sleeper train back to Lviv...
finally, we rest on the sleeper train back to Lviv...
pano: the port of Odessa at night
pano: the port of Odessa at night
pano: Arkadia beach on the Black Sea
pano: Arkadia beach on the Black Sea
pano: memorial to the victims of the 1905 Odessa pogrom
pano: memorial to the victims of the 1905 Odessa pogrom
a walk thru time...
a walk thru time...