we arrive on the overnight train from Lviv, to find... |
...sycamores and interesting architecture |
|
first stop is the JCC Migdal, not far from the train station... |
...where we get a tour and intro to the JCC's work by Jenny |
then off into the streets |
surprisingly, this little building was a site of the pioneering early-Zionist Odessa Committee |
|
|
|
the former stock exchange building |
|
|
|
a view of the opera house as we head for our hotel |
|
here's the hotel, a historic 'passage' complex of shops, offices, and lodging |
still very elaborate inside |
|
but there are other remarkable buildings, even just across the street |
|
we drop our things at the hotel and head into the City Garden... |
...a favorite meeting place in the downtown |
|
off again, heading toward the opera house |
|
|
another view of the house, built in the 1880s |
|
we pass thru the city hall area, a large park and promenade |
Mercury, one of the symbols of the city... |
...like the anchor, representing the port |
here's Pushkin, a much-loved visitor (and briefly a citizen) |
walking down the tree-lined cliff-top Prymorsky blvd |
|
a glass case in the walkway protects remnants of a Greek settlement from the 4th-c. BC |
|
the harbor end of Katerynynska street |
Marla with friend and guide Alex at the top of the Potemkin Stairs |
the Duc de Richelieu waves as we start down the steps... |
...across the cargo rails to the waterfront |
Ernst Neizvestny's Golden Child, in the golden sunset |
yacht harbor at the end of the working pier |
a monument to sailor's wives and families, looking out to sea |
now we head back up the Potemkin Stairs (we'll take the funicular) |
night falling on Prymorsky blvd |
|
a last look over the port before heading off to dinner |
the next morning, we head up Preobrazhenska street, to a corner where there was a photo studio around 1905... |
...either in this building... |
...or in this one, the Lichtenberg studio took a baby picture of Marla's grandfather's first cousin Sam |
hmmm... no hard evidence, but it might have been here |
in the streets again to see the sights |
|
a quieter and less ostentatious neighborhood |
the bookseller's market (Jay is looking for a particular novel in Russian) |
the 19th-c. Choral synagogue, converted to a sports hall under the Soviets... |
...now serves as a house of prayer, study, and community once again |
the Brodsky synagogue, from the 1860s, remains a state archive since just after the 1917 revolution |
|
continuing on... |
|
here is Catherine square; Great Kate is standing on her favorite, Potemkin |
one of many memorials around the city |
|
on Sabaneiv Bridge street, a crumbling beauty |
|
up ahead, Gogol street, with many architectural gems |
|
here's a house Gogol himself occupied in 1850-51 |
this seems like a genuine investment opportunity |
let's check it out... |
hmmm... Gogol's back yard! |
an interesting structure in the yard next door |
a view back at Gogol's house |
seems peaceful enough here |
|
out on the street again... |
...we meet a wandering poet, who composes on the spot for 'Malka' |
|
|
the monument to an orange (sorry, the story is too long for a caption) |
Teschin (mother-in-law) bridge, one of the longest in Odessa |
love locks with a view |
on Prymorsky blvd again... |
...it's time for a refreshing cup of kvas! |
then, to the museum complex for a variety of local history |
in the scupture park, Marla checks out Rabinovich the tailor |
yes, the varenyky in this city are excellent |
an interesting small collection of local history, mostly conveyed via old photos, posters, currency, etc. |
here's a portrait by the Lichtenberg studio! |
as are the two in the upper corners... |
...and this one! but, no new info we can use to help our search |
back on the boulevards |
|
|
|
here's the regional history museum |
symbols of the city in a 19th-c. mansion |
the museum holds maps, models, and documents representing many periods of struggle for control of the city |
here's a great display on the building of the opera house |
and a memento of the Brodksy synagogue |
a contemporary local view of the Russo-Japanese war |
heading down the great staircase |
now we're in the museum of WWII... |
...which focuses on the city's efforts to defend itself from repeated attack and occupation |
an Underwood typewriter from the era |
and now we're in front of the small but good local Jewish museum |
|
that's Sholem Aleichem standing |
some less happy memories |
finally today we visit Arkadia park on the Black Sea |
some mural art on the walk down to the water |
and at last, we reach the Sea... |
...for a glass of wine on the beach sands with Alex... |
...a nice way to end the day |
next morning, we head for the historic Moldavanka district |
a memorial to Jews killed and transported from this area in WWII |
|
the trees memorialize non-Jews who sheltered and saved Jews during the war |
|
this hospital served the district's Orthodox Jewish community and others before the revolution... |
|
...and continues to serve the community today |
|
much of the city was built of shellstone quarried under the streets |
beyond the often elegant facades, the buildings behind are usually more humble |
rear of a facade building |
|
|
not all the facade buildings are surviving |
meanwhile, across the street... |
now we take a stroll through the Trete (3rd) Jewish cemetery |
|
many of the gravesites are very overgrown |
|
a memorial to the victimes of the 1905 pogrom |
|
now we are back in town at the historic Pryvoz market |
Marla and Alex with two market regulars |
this market has long been known for its fishmongers |
crayfish resting under a rug |
let's try another part of the market |
here, salted, smoked, and dried fish reign |
the market complex includes many structures like this |
|
our appetites are ready for a local specialty: bull-headed 'bychky' (goby) |
then back to downtown for a last tour of the streets |
|
the Trinity orthodox church |
|
|
at Odessa's large university complex |
|
|
|
finally, we rest on the sleeper train back to Lviv... |
pano: the port of Odessa at night |
pano: Arkadia beach on the Black Sea |
pano: memorial to the victims of the 1905 Odessa pogrom |
a walk thru time... |