11-MAR-2007
Finally a reasonable stick
The tiny cedar I slung is in this shot middle frame top.
11-MAR-2007
Top Vertical section of Eiger
After climbing through the tree the I slung I got a good angle in a seam where Nate said I could have got some nuts. I wasn’t really looking for nut placements, for some reason, and didn’t even think about them. Up some more and after pulling on some granite, which was warm and rough, I got to a bomber cedar (that I also pulled on! lol). I had 2 screamers, 1 webolette, and 1 3/4” cam on my harness and 25 feet of ice ahead, so I wrapped the tree with the webbing and started up the ice! The red webolette is seen in this picture mid left frame.
It was terrific! I was getting tired, but the ice was great. The 16cm went in after 5 or 10 feet, and a 12cm grivel sunk close to the bulge. As I pulled that bulge, my hands were failing, my tools weren’t sticking, I was beating away at the ice and having the tools glint off as my limp wrists struggled! Finally, I pulled over the top. 40 feet later and about 50 from the last screw I got to a decent tree to belay Nate from.
19-MAR-2007
Eiger topout (nate)
Uneventfully he came up, snapped a couple shots (one of me looking at my beaten picks) and we rapped from the rings on Dirty Harry.
11-MAR-2007
Rapping Dirty Harry (nate)
(I included this as i thought the rock looked nice in the sun!)
11-MAR-2007
More of the same
Nate was up next and we eyed the vertical ice in the shade in the Roller Coaster and Jetstream area. Nate racked up, ropes were flaked, and he set of for a thin line to the right of Jetstream pillar (WI 4+).
11-MAR-2007
Attempt
This didn’t work out as there was poor protection and delicate climbing on and over a detached curtain, so Nate settled on Jetstream proper.
11-MAR-2007
Thunk
Here is Nate making the final decision to abandon this funky ice.
11-MAR-2007
Jetstream left (WI4+)
Of course it was a good lead although the ice was a little funky. The temp changes were making the first inch or two of ice exfoliate with tool placements.
11-MAR-2007
Jetstream Left
Also, as this is one of the steeper more sustained climbs in the area it had been beaten out and healed making the climbing a little less inspiring. It’s always nicer to be running up a piece of blue ice that hasn’t seen a pick, but you can’t always win!
19-MAR-2007
Jetstream Sequence
Nate, here, is moving up the left side of jetstream.
11-MAR-2007
Seconding Jetstream
Here I am following jetstream with one trango and one of my own tools! Even without a grip i'm pretty happy with them. They aren't the end all tool but they feel solid and stick securely! I thought I'd get some evidence that they've been put into action.
11-MAR-2007
Top out
After this shot we rapped to the big ledge at the bottom of Curtain Call and Jetstream.