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Bob | profile | all galleries >> house >> newhouse >> improvements >> Family room to theater conversion >> Do-It-Yourself Projector Mount tree view | thumbnails | slideshow

Do-It-Yourself Projector Mount

This is a tutorial for building a DIY projector mount. Click each picture larger view.
The first step to building this mount is not shown in the pic. You flip the PJ over and tape some tracing paper over it. Then you find and mark the mounting holes with a pencil. Now is also a good time to trace the general profile of the PJ out paying special attention to filter location (especially on the Z1). You don't want to have to take the PJ down to remove the filter. Once you have the shapes traced, it's time to cut out the pattern and place it on your mounting plate material. I used 3/16ths smoked lexan, but you can use steel, MDF, plywood, whatever. Cut out the shape, drill the mounting holes (5/16th diameter holes should do).The first step to building this mount is not shown in the pic. You flip the PJ over and tape some tracing paper over it. Then you find and mark the mounting holes with a pencil. Now is also a good time to trace the general profile of the PJ out paying special attention to filter location (especially on the Z1). You don't want to have to take the PJ down to remove the filter. Once you have the shapes traced, it's time to cut out the pattern and place it on your mounting plate material. I used 3/16ths smoked lexan, but you can use steel, MDF, plywood, whatever. Cut out the shape, drill the mounting holes (5/16th" diameter holes should do).
This image shows the mounting plate test fitted to the PJ. The Z1 uses 3 mounting points, with 6mm diameter bolts. You might want to find a source for bolts LONGER than those found at Lowes or Depot (2 long or more). The longer they are, the more adjustability you'll have. For each mounting point, you first thread a 6mm nut all the way onto the 6mm bolt, then put a washer on, then put it through the mounting plate and thread it all the way into the PJ. Be sure the PJ threaded inserts have a bottom to them, otherwise you might thread the bolt into a circuit board and short it out. Once the PJ is mounted, you can raise any of the mounting points by backing off on the nut. In other words, you keep the 6mm bolts from turning, but thread the nut down to lift that point on the PJ. Notice I've also drilled holes in the center of the plate for attaching the pipe flange. The large center hole is so I can pass my cables through the pipe and plate to hide them. You can't drill these holes until you decide on a pipe diameter (covered on the next picture).This image shows the mounting plate test fitted to the PJ. The Z1 uses 3 mounting points, with 6mm diameter bolts. You might want to find a source for bolts LONGER than those found at Lowes or Depot (2" long or more). The longer they are, the more adjustability you'll have. For each mounting point, you first thread a 6mm nut all the way onto the 6mm bolt, then put a washer on, then put it through the mounting plate and thread it all the way into the PJ. Be sure the PJ threaded inserts have a bottom to them, otherwise you might thread the bolt into a circuit board and short it out.
Once the PJ is mounted, you can raise any of the mounting points by backing off on the nut. In other words, you keep the 6mm bolts from turning, but thread the nut down to lift that point on the PJ.

Notice I've also drilled holes in the center of the plate for attaching the pipe flange. The large center hole is so I can pass my cables through the pipe and plate to hide them. You can't drill these holes until you decide on a pipe diameter (covered on the next picture).
This picture shows the pipe and two flanges. The diameter pipe you choose has a lot to do with asthetics (any larger than 2 pipe would look bulky to me). However, if you're running a ton of cables, especially with large connectors, you may have to go larger. If you don't care about hiding your cables in the pipe, it really doesn't matter. FYI... the power cable + 3 RG6 cables easily makes it through 1-1/4 pipe. I am also running VGA over cat5, but the HD15 connector must be soldered on AFTER the cat5 goes through the pipe. If you're running an OEM VGA cable or even DVI, you'll want a much larger pipe. Otherwise you'll have to run it outside. In my design, the long pipe is 1-1/4 pipe, the top receiver pipe is 1-1/2. I was lucky enough to have attic space above my theater. I mounted the top 1-1/2 pipe and flange to a 2x6 that spans two ceiling joists. The 1-1/4 pipe slides inside the 1-1/2 pipe. I drilled and tapped the 1-1/2 pipe to accept a 1/4 bolt set screw. I slide and rotate the bottom pipe to where I want it and then tighten the set screw. This allows for up and down adjustment of over 12. This complex design can be completely avoided by using a single pipe with the same size flange at top and bottom. The only caveat is having to choose the exact pipe length to put your PJ where it needs to be. This is more flexible when you have PJ with lense shift like the Z1/Z2. If you can't find a pipe length to suit you, the guys at the home center will cut and rethread any length you want. Thread your flanges on snug, wipe the whole thing down with thinner, and prime and paint it. The bottom flange mounts to the mounting plate with four 1/4 recess head machine screws and nuts. Just put it on top of your mount somewhat centered and mark the holes with a marker. Drill the holes a little larger than 1/4.This picture shows the pipe and two flanges. The diameter pipe you choose has a lot to do with asthetics (any larger than 2" pipe would look bulky to me). However, if you're running a ton of cables, especially with large connectors, you may have to go larger. If you don't care about hiding your cables in the pipe, it really doesn't matter. FYI... the power cable + 3 RG6 cables easily makes it through 1-1/4" pipe. I am also running VGA over cat5, but the HD15 connector must be soldered on AFTER the cat5 goes through the pipe. If you're running an OEM VGA cable or even DVI, you'll want a much larger pipe. Otherwise you'll have to run it outside.

In my design, the long pipe is 1-1/4" pipe, the top "receiver" pipe is 1-1/2". I was lucky enough to have attic space above my theater. I mounted the top 1-1/2" pipe and flange to a 2x6 that spans two ceiling joists. The 1-1/4" pipe slides inside the 1-1/2" pipe. I drilled and tapped the 1-1/2" pipe to accept a 1/4" bolt "set screw". I slide and rotate the bottom pipe to where I want it and then tighten the set screw. This allows for up and down adjustment of over 12".

This complex design can be completely avoided by using a single pipe with the same size flange at top and bottom. The only caveat is having to choose the exact pipe length to put your PJ where it needs to be. This is more flexible when you have PJ with lense shift like the Z1/Z2. If you can't find a pipe length to suit you, the guys at the home center will cut and rethread any length you want.

Thread your flanges on snug, wipe the whole thing down with thinner, and prime and paint it. The bottom flange mounts to the mounting plate with four 1/4" recess head machine screws and nuts. Just put it on top of your mount somewhat centered and mark the holes with a marker. Drill the holes a little larger than 1/4".
This just shows the finished product. I think it's nice to hide all the wiring up through the mount. It's also nice to have the top flange mounted above the finished ceiling. Of course this is only possible with attic space or when using a drop ceiling. I used a desk grommet to trim off the hole in the drywall around the pipe. You can also use this style of grommet if you're running your wiring outside the pipe to trim the hole. Surely you can mount the top flange on the surface of your drywall, but it will definitely make it look somewhat industrial. If you do surface mount, be sure to get at least two of the mounting screws into a ceiling joist. For the other two, use drywall anchors (preferably the high load style).This just shows the finished product. I think it's nice to hide all the wiring up through the mount. It's also nice to have the top flange mounted above the finished ceiling. Of course this is only possible with attic space or when using a drop ceiling. I used a "desk grommet" to trim off the hole in the drywall around the pipe. You can also use this style of grommet if you're running your wiring outside the pipe to trim the hole.

Surely you can mount the top flange on the surface of your drywall, but it will definitely make it look somewhat industrial. If you do surface mount, be sure to get at least two of the mounting screws into a ceiling joist. For the other two, use drywall anchors (preferably the high load style).
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