This is one more example of a poor out-of-camera JPEG that benefits from RAW conversion; in this case from a camera that typically produces very good JPEGs and has excellent dynamic range.
This particular image is important because of the huge range of values that the camera is attempting to capture.
This image is reasonably exposed; note the histogram. What is not ideal is the 1000 ISO I used, in terms of maximizing that dynamic range. I should have used ISO 200.

Still...see the next image from RAW...