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Hi, thank you for the very useful information on LiFePo4. Just bought 400 Ah Winston cells and Balmar AT 165A with MC614. In a forum you recommended to cut B+ (red wire) by HVC-relay. Why not ignition (brown wire? Would appreciate if you could give me a comment.
Walter Ott, Cologne Germany
Thanks for all of the great information!
Could you please direct me to a good informational source for replacing my halyard sheaves? I'd like to do it myself, with the mast stepped if possible and I need to know the anatomy of a sheave. I've read what I can find on SailNet and Sailboat Owners, the C&C forum (mine is a C&C 33-1 '76 with original mast). I'm replacing my halyards with all rope and just trying to do a complete job. The main is difficult to haul and it's probably the sheaves as they are original. Thanks for any help.
"Flight Risk" #15678
Thank You for a great web site. You really do great work.
We just purchased an 1981 CS36T (it came from Maine) and I was wondering what type of davits you would recommend. We have a hard "Botex" dingy of about 75#'s and 8" in length.
I have Link 1000 that has served me well for over 10 years and is still working. But, the PO cracked the face so the covering over the function key has fallen out. I would like to just replace it, but Heart Interface is long gone. Any suggestions?
That was most interesting and convincing argument against using silicon I have have ever read. My problem is a leaking aluminium toe rail on a contessa 28, would removing and rebedding the rail using Bed-It tape be something you would recommend?
Your comments would be very welcome
I have the same question as chuck deck hardware and 8 port lights? Thanks
I'm interested and plan to purchase some of your butyl tape. How many rolls do you estimate I would need to redo all the deck hardware on a Catalina 30 Mk I? Also, how many linear feet come on a roll? Cheers!