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Chas and Judi
Great site ! I have an Ericson 30= NAMED "eden" and have owned her for over 20 years Just rebuilt the Kabota M 16 , new upholstery and sails. she's my last boat Judi and I have cruised her in the San Juanes and Gulf islands Just a comfortable safe fast cruising boat.,
Charlie CFSA Esquimalt Sqdn
I'm new to sailing with 2 years in and i very much enjoy the sport. Came across your website and in thew last 3 days have read many of your write ups. Thank you very much and was glad to send a donation.
Good to be here!
Ron Hyman, SV Dawn Trader
Hi, read/looked at your post on old transducer,new display. Is it possible to attach one of the new dual beam 83/200 mhz displays and have it function on just the 20 degree/200 mhz frequency.... bought your bedding (butyl) tape and love it.
Hello, MaineSail, Met once, imho, on the PearsonAriel.org site. Have for a very long time been a fan of your unigue and compassionate articles, insane image closeups!
My boat came with an OB well. Altered it to custom fit a Yamaha 8-4. Couldn't move on it. Sold it, with the idea on going for an Elco 9.9. Getting pertinent info from salesman became very difficult. now will make the Torgeedo Cruise 4.0 work instead. Have to understand batteries, probably going with Victron. Reading a CruisersForum leads me to you again, sir. I suffer from electrical impediments. When I read your articles I tried to download one, then another. Because I had to have a copy of my own!!
I'm sure I want to contribute to the upkeep fund for your website....in exchange for a password or something that will allow me to printout only one not printed over copy of each battery article. Maybe it's a computer setting I don't know about, but pages overprint making you text incomprehensible.
They'd be great in book form, or an already printed out pamphlet I would be very happy to buy! Can you help me? Thanks, very much! Ebb -- email@example.com
huile de ricin
Really nice photos !!!
Avoir une belle peau
Vous êtes passionné et cela se ressent fortement
Had a problem today.While checking the HE zinc on my M3 20 the bolt came out without the zinc for the first time in 22 years. I took the bolt & ground off the threads on the outside that screw into the HE & then tried to thread the bolt onto the stuck zinc. It was difficult to do this & when I finally got some thread into the bolt the end of the zinc snapped off. I am thinking that since the zinc is jammed against the HE it will still function as it should & I can wait until it corrodes enough to replace it. My heat exchanger only has one end cap which is opposite the zinc. Thoughts or suggestions?
thank you from Como lake, italy
i had the great idea of doing the first italian public, touristic working boat,44 pax,
hybrid propulsion and co, submitted to CE Inland waterways rules.
the boat is working and the problems also.
i found this morning your articles and tech info.
i will read you with great interest
thank you. i will mail you for private info if possible.
I read your article on LiFePo4 batteries and got a lot of good information. You mention the importance of having a programmable shore power charger. In reading owner's manuals I found the Mastervolt Chargemaster to have better programming features than the Victron Phoenix. For example, the maximum absorb time can be set between 0 to 24 hours in 1 minute increments on the Mastervolt versus 1 to 8 hours in 1 hour increment on the Victron.
Hi great information. Have you tried this to clean up silicon. Pam cooking oil spray with kanola oil. The plumber I work for uses this works great. It just dissolves it. Hope this helps thanks again Chris
thanks so much for your impeller replacement tutorial!! extremely helpful!
Hi, thank you for the very useful information on LiFePo4. Just bought 400 Ah Winston cells and Balmar AT 165A with MC614. In a forum you recommended to cut B+ (red wire) by HVC-relay. Why not ignition (brown wire? Would appreciate if you could give me a comment.
Walter Ott, Cologne Germany
Thanks for all of the great information!
Could you please direct me to a good informational source for replacing my halyard sheaves? I'd like to do it myself, with the mast stepped if possible and I need to know the anatomy of a sheave. I've read what I can find on SailNet and Sailboat Owners, the C&C forum (mine is a C&C 33-1 '76 with original mast). I'm replacing my halyards with all rope and just trying to do a complete job. The main is difficult to haul and it's probably the sheaves as they are original. Thanks for any help.
"Flight Risk" #15678
Thank You for a great web site. You really do great work.
We just purchased an 1981 CS36T (it came from Maine) and I was wondering what type of davits you would recommend. We have a hard "Botex" dingy of about 75#'s and 8" in length.
I have Link 1000 that has served me well for over 10 years and is still working. But, the PO cracked the face so the covering over the function key has fallen out. I would like to just replace it, but Heart Interface is long gone. Any suggestions?
That was most interesting and convincing argument against using silicon I have have ever read. My problem is a leaking aluminium toe rail on a contessa 28, would removing and rebedding the rail using Bed-It tape be something you would recommend?
Your comments would be very welcome
I have the same question as chuck deck hardware and 8 port lights? Thanks
I'm interested and plan to purchase some of your butyl tape. How many rolls do you estimate I would need to redo all the deck hardware on a Catalina 30 Mk I? Also, how many linear feet come on a roll? Cheers!