|  Kia orana (may you live long) from the Cook Islands!
 |  Layover in Tahiti
 |  Faaa airport in Papeete, Tahiti
 |  Dan laying over
 | 
|  Thirteen hours from LAX we arrive to the Cooks!
 |  Deplaning in Rarotonga, Cook Islands
 |  Dan got eied (they can't be bothered with the "L" here)
 |  Madi got eied, too
 | 
|  RAR airport. Slightly bigger than SBA
 |  Home for the next week: Rarotonga Beach Bungalows
 |  A totara (puffer fish) guarding the Totara Lounge
 |  Decor in the Totara lounge
 | 
|  Tupa (crab) bungalow
 |  Our outside seating area
 |  Our lounge chair area
 |  Our porch
 | 
|  Our breakfast spot
 |  Our side garden
 |  Inside Tupa bungalow
 |  Inside Tupa bungalow
 | 
|  Inside Tupa bungalow
 |  Inside Tupa bungalow
 |  Paddles everywhere
 |  Inside Tupa bungalow
 | 
|  Satellite TV with 3 channels! Serious, the locals were jealous
 |  Inside Tupa bungalow
 |  The coolest shower rack in the world
 |  Shh...sneaking up on Dan in the garden shower
 | 
|  Our garden shower
 |  Our garden shower
 |  Our garden shower
 |  The view from our porch
 | 
|  The beach outside Raro Beach Bungalows
 |  View to the left
 |  More view to the left
 |  View to the right
 | 
|  Holding hands over a fallen coconut
 |  Offshore coral keeps the waves offshore
 |  Etu moana (blue starfish)
 |  Pretty flowers
 | 
|  M is for marriage
 |  More beautiful beach as we trek eastward
 |  Roughing it
 |  Matu rori (sea cucumber). Supposedly the locals squeeze the raw innards out and eat 'em. Ick.
 | 
|  Pretty neighboring bungalows
 |  Dan gets his feet wet
 |  More beautiful coastline
 |  More pretty flowers
 | 
|  And more beautiful coastline
 |  Our view all afternoon as we laze on the beach
 |  Waiting for the hourly clockwise Raro by Night bus
 |  Island night at Staircase
 | 
|  Demonstration of local dances
 |  Pawpaw for breakfast
 |  Pawpaw = papaya and it's yummy!
 |  Another day, another day at the beach
 | 
|  Preparing to lounge
 |  First, a quick swim
 |  The water is perfect!
 |  Dan tries out the kayak
 | 
|  Off he goes...
 |  And keeps going...
 |  And going (I can't even see him anymore)...
 |  All the way to the wave break!
 | 
|  Finally, Dan heads back for shore
 |  Dan heads back for shore
 |  Dan makes it back to shore
 |  Phew
 | 
|  A huge etu moana!
 |  The Avarua government building
 |  There's even a 3-screen movie theater. Now playing: Date Movie and Ice Age 2
 |  First infamous short-legged dog sighting
 | 
|  Canoe hangar
 |  Trader Jack's, owned by Avarua harbour master J.H. Cooper - "The Trader"
 |  Umm...I think this is the extent of the Raro harbor!
 |  Dan on the deck of Trader Jack's
 | 
|  Star fruit (not as tasty as pawpaw)
 |  5:23 pm - two sets of canoers head out clockwise
 |  More canoers head out to catch the sunset
 |  Off he goes
 | 
|  Our first Raro sunset (we were on the wrong side of the island last night)
 |  Sunset
 |  Sunset
 |  Sunset
 | 
|  Kids playing on a Survivor challenge platform
 |  Sunset
 |  Sunset
 |  Sunset
 | 
|  Sunset
 |  6:11 pm - the canoers return from the other direction
 |  That's just 48 minutes to circle the island
 |  Sunset
 | 
|  Sunset
 |  Sunset
 |  Sunset
 |  Seafood pizza: smoked fish, calamari, shrimp, mussels (my first and second-to-last), shredded crab, and fish pieces...yum!
 | 
|  Lucky's cat hanging out on our porch...there are way more dogs than cats on this island
 |  Ah...*this* is the harbor
 |  The port
 |  The port
 | 
|  Port Authority
 |  Ministry of Transport
 |  Containers
 |  Miss Mataroa
 | 
|  A huge container ship arrives for the day
 |  Cruise ship by the 1916 wreck of the SS Maitai
 |  This cruise comes through every two weeks...next stop Bora Bora!
 |  Punanga Nui Saturday morning market
 | 
|  The market
 |  The market
 |  August 21, 1998 - To commemorate the opening of the Punanga Nui by the New Zealand high commissioner to the Cook Islands
 |  In appreciation of Ausaid, the People's Republic of China, and the Catholic Commission for Justice and Development
 | 
|  Coconut rolls...yum!
 |  Cook-style coffee sleeve
 |  Big and beautiful
 |  Shorty dog at the market
 | 
|  Fresh fish (the branch is to swat the flies away)
 |  White hibiscus
 |  Tangaroa, the Polynesian icon of the sea and fertility (view him from the front to see why!)
 |  Another shorty dog
 | 
|  Small dogs need a small SPCA
 |  Meatco, for all your meat needs
 |  Seven-in-one coconut tree...found on the island of Takutea and replanted here
 |  Another shorty dog
 | 
|  Dan looking pious in front of CICC (Cook Islands Christian Church)
 |  Super old tombstones at CICC
 |  Super old tombstones at CICC
 |  CICC is made entirely of coral
 | 
|  Cycling to the Cooks vs. Tonga rugby game
 |  Cycling to the Cooks vs. Tonga rugby game
 |  Why the chicken crossed the road: to escape the 100,000 annoying roosters in the yard
 |  Tereora Stadium
 | 
|  The opening kiddie game
 |  The Cook Islanders take the field to practice
 |  Tonga takes the practice field...check out those crazy coaches' outfits
 |  Tonga warming up
 | 
|  A helicopter arrives
 |  This is the first time a helicopter has landed in the stadium
 |  Cargo onboard: the prime minister and Miss Cook Islands 2006
 |  The PM and Miss CI both live in Rarotonga, but I guess they need to arrive in style
 | 
|  The helicopter lands
 |  The prime minister deplanes (decopters?)
 |  The PM is greeted by a crazy man
 |  Miss CI 2006 deplanes
 | 
|  She and her posse join the party
 |  Off goes the helicopter
 |  The PM and Miss CI don't get to leave by copter
 |  Away she goes...
 | 
|  A prayer for the home team and a curse on the visiting team
 |  Everyone lines up for the national anthems
 |  Team Cook Islands
 |  Team Tonga
 | 
|  Team hug
 |  Tonga's haka (war dance thingy)
 |  Our haka is better (except for that dude who fell down)
 |  Game on!
 | 
|  The score is about 30 to 3, Tonga :(
 |  Maybe Peter Dean's South Pacific doppelganger can save the day
 |  SP PD prepares to sub in
 |  And he's in...time to save the day!
 | 
|  Cooks get the ball back
 |  The stands are packed
 |  Pancakes with ice cream and chocolate sauce...the perfect rugby snack
 |  The drum section (they drum for every score)
 | 
|  I just love those Tonga coach outfits
 |  So chic
 |  More rugby
 |  More rugby
 | 
|  More rugby
 |  More rugby
 |  More rugby
 |  Crazy tattoos...must be from New Zealand
 | 
|  And it's over...77 Tonga, 10 Cook Islands
 |  A final prayer
 |  Miss Cook Islands 2006 stuck it out 'till the bitter end
 |  Shorty dog outside the game
 | 
|  Uh oh...clouds rolling in
 |  But it's still nice out
 |  It's getting pretty stormy
 |  Rainy day means time to crack the complimentary champagne
 | 
|  Mimosas on the porch
 |  And World Cup on the TV!
 |  Sunday night BBQ at the Pawpaw Patch
 |  Cloudy, but not rainy today
 | 
|  Cloudy, but still beautiful
 |  Definitely walking weather
 |  Sea bird. I dunno what it is, but I'm glad it's anything but a rooster
 |  Shells today, snacks and jewellery tomorrow
 | 
|  Oh neat: normal-legged dogs
 |  After a quick fight over me, I get to keep the tan one for the walk
 |  Walking toward Muri beach
 |  Muri beach
 | 
|  More Muri beach
 |  A motu offshore
 |  Coral is pretty, but you can't take it from the beach
 |  Same goes for shells
 | 
|  Few cows on the island means milk comes in cans
 |  Tramping along Muri beach
 |  Uh oh - two new normal-legged dogs
 |  Taakoka motu
 | 
|  My dog meets the new dogs
 |  And the new dogs battle it out
 |  My dog doesn't participate
 |  A perfect chance for me to escape
 | 
|  Sheesh...as soon as I ditch the dogs, I collect two new ones. Where are all these big dogs coming from?
 |  And then as soon as I pawn the new dogs off on an unsuspecting New Zealander, two more approach!
 |  The dogs go in search of lunch
 |  The dogs look for fish
 | 
|  No luck so far
 |  Finally, my moment to escape
 |  One tracked me down to the bungalow
 |  One bookstore on the island
 | 
|  Those short legs get tired quickly!
 |  Lunch at Whatever
 |  Mini (yeah, right) fish burger...yum
 |  The cutest shorty dog yet
 | 
|  He's running away quickly, but it's hard to tell with those tiny legs!
 |  Dan's favorite rock face
 |  I think this means "keep left, you dummy"
 |  Look at the size of that beer
 | 
|  "A curse upon the brother of all who photograph this site"...oops, sorry Al!
 |  I never found out what a judder bar is
 |  Neighboring city of Ngatangi'ia...we stayed in Titikaveka
 |  Another shy shorty...
 | 
|  ...aptly escaping down Smurf street
 |  Super brown...for your shopping needs of any color
 |  Tangaroa outside the Perfume Factory
 |  Cute public restrooms (well, cute on the outside at least)
 | 
|  Fish and chips...yum
 |  FBI fish and chips
 |  The failed Sheraton resort in Vaimaanga that temporarily bankrupted the islands
 |  Drying out after a rainy bike ride
 | 
|  Island night at Edgewater
 |  Jerri and Chet and a butter sculpture
 |  Hey, that's the same MC from the Staircase island night
 |  Honeymooners who were too slow to hide are called up on stage
 | 
|  Island night
 |  Island night
 |  Island night
 |  Island night
 | 
|  Island night
 |  Sunrise...and clear skies!
 |  Sunrise...and clear skies!
 |  House of the queen's rep
 | 
|  House of the queen's rep
 |  The queen's rep is conveniently next door to paintball
 |  Takitumu conservation area
 |  Apparently conservation does not start at home here (house behind the Takitumu sign)
 | 
|  Wac that child (along with "_low down" and "_c_ool ahead")
 |  Big J's
 |  Accommodations for every budget!
 |  Hi puppy! This explains all the tall dogs...they're breeding
 | 
|  CICC in Titikaveka
 |  CICC in Titikaveka
 |  I think this is a solar water heater...all the houses have 'em
 |  Sun is almost up and the sky's still looking clear!
 | 
|  Almost time to leave Raro...goodbye construction!
 |  One last visit to our beach
 |  Dan recycling
 |  Back at the airport, at the only gate
 | 
|  How cute is the hand-written boarding pass?
 |  Dan boarding the Saab to Aitutaki atoll
 |  Last glimpse of Rarotonga
 |  Last look at the needle
 | 
|  So long Raro
 |  First glimpse of Aitutaki
 |  So far, no Survivors in sight
 |  Look at that blue water!
 | 
|  The left side of the island
 |  The right side of the island
 |  Not much to it!
 |  Coming in for our landing
 | 
|  View over Aitutaki
 |  Talk about a teeny airport!
 |  Aitutaki airport
 |  Airport entertainment
 | 
|  Welcome to Aitutaki
 |  Etu Moana Boutique Beach Villas
 |  View of Etu Moana from the beach
 |  Etu Moana
 | 
|  Welcome to Villa (old no.) 7
 |  Lovey shows us villa 7
 |  Greeted with eis and coconut milk
 |  Relaxing on the porch
 | 
|  Here's the pool
 |  Honeymoon bungalow apparently means no sitting room
 |  And only 2 channels on this island, but we'll still get the World Cup
 |  Inside old no. 7
 | 
|  Inside old no. 7
 |  Inside old no. 7
 |  Dan in the garden shower
 |  Painting by local artist
 | 
|  The porch
 |  The porch
 |  I wish these pesky birds would eat more mosquitos...they're both EVERYWHERE
 |  Pool and poolside bar
 | 
|  *Happy* Tangaroa guarding the poolside honesty bar
 |  View to the pool and beach
 |  View to the pool and beach
 |  Here's where we'll spend the afternoon
 | 
|  Local hair
 |  Local hair
 |  This island is teeming with cats...probably due to the lack of dogs
 |  I think the lack of dogs is also why there are so many icky matu rori here
 | 
|  Dinner at Cafe Tupuna...the best food the whole trip
 |  Schmoopies at Cafe Tupuna
 |  Dan chilling at our beach
 |  The perfect spot for morning coffee
 | 
|  The water is great!
 |  Dan starts up the VL100T-3 for our around-the-island tour
 |  Due to Survivor, much of the island is off limits...stupid Survivor
 |  One of the many many maps showing the locals where they're not allowed, thanks to Survivor
 | 
|  The footbridge to the private motu Akitua was washed away in February
 |  The Lagoon Resort is the only thing on Akitua
 |  View of the southside of the atoll from O'otu beach
 |  View of Akitua from O'otu beach
 | 
|  More view of Akitua from O'otu beach
 |  Dan on O'otu beach
 |  Madi on O'otu beach
 |  Dan looking fly with motu 'Angari in the background
 | 
|  Bishops has been completely commandeered by Survivor so we're waiting to find out who will take us on our lagoon cruise
 |  Back onboard for the (partial) around-the-island tour
 |  There's the whole airport...no tower or nuthin!
 |  Dan "opens her up" to 60 km/hr...that's fast here!
 | 
|  CICC in Arutanga
 |  This CICC is the first church in the Cooks, from 1828
 |  Tall ship offshore
 |  The harbor
 | 
|  Port authority "building"
 |  Hi Gina!
 |  Goats really know how to make you feel like popular
 |  Tautu wharf
 | 
|  Exploring the motu-ette off Tautu wharf
 |  Exploring the motu-ette off Tautu wharf
 |  Exploring the motu-ette off Tautu wharf
 |  Hike to the top of Maungapu
 | 
|  Maungapu is the highest point on the island, but is only 124 meters up
 |  View from the top of Maungapu
 |  View from the top of Maungapu
 |  View from the top of Maungapu
 | 
|  View from the top of Maungapu
 |  View from the top of Maungapu
 |  Heading back down to do more tramping
 |  View from the ridgeline tramping track
 | 
|  View from the ridgeline tramping track
 |  View from the ridgeline tramping track
 |  View back up Maungapu
 |  View from the water tower
 | 
|  View down to Arutanga (it's the biggest village on the island, but it's small!)
 |  View from the water tower
 |  View from the water tower
 |  Cute! Baby goats
 | 
|  I no longer feel like a goat rockstar
 |  Back to O'otu beach
 |  Hanging at Samade on the Beach
 |  Sitting on a sand bar
 | 
|  Time for lunch!
 |  Fish burgers (yet again) at Samade
 |  Samade certainly is right on the beach
 |  Starting our kayak trip south towards motu Akitua
 | 
|  After crashing into the Lagoon Resort bungalows for a closer look, I've determined they are not glass bottomed
 |  Checking out motu 'Angarei
 |  Dan snorkelling off 'Angarei
 |  Next stop motu Ee
 | 
|  Ee is aawesome
 |  View of motu Mangere from Ee
 |  View along the length of Ee
 |  View along the length of Ee
 | 
|  View of Ee
 |  So that's where baby palm trees come from
 |  Checking out the wave break past Mangere diaster strikes as Madi capsizes
 |  View of wave break past Mangere
 | 
|  Watching the sunset back at Samade
 |  The beach is like one big kitty litter box
 |  Dan (and the obligatory cat) in the sunset
 |  Dinner at Te Vaka is tainted by all the Survivor crew a-holes hanging around on their day off
 | 
|  Lagoon cruise aboard the Titi Ai Tonga, hosted by Prince something-or-other
 |  Cruising out towards Honeymoon Island and Maina. One foot Island is off limits thanks to dumb Survivor...wah
 |  Madi sampling sea grapes...they're salty and awful
 |  Lunch is BBQed tuna. Oh, and there's a bar onboard, too. Yay!
 | 
|  The prince, Captain Wonderful and Captain Cook ("he's the captain and the cook") provide lunchtime entertainment
 |  Crusing to Honeymoon Island
 |  The Titi Ai Tonga
 |  Under a wedding arch on Honeymoon Island
 | 
|  Rare baby red-tailed tropic-bird on Honeymoon Island
 |  Red-tailed tropic-birds on Honeymoon Island
 |  View of Maina from Honeymoon Island
 |  View of Maina from Honeymoon Island
 | 
|  Our footprints
 |  Approaching Maina
 |  Frigate birds above Maina (unfortunately they signify a storm is coming)
 |  Dan on Maina
 | 
|  View of Honeymoon Island from Maina
 |  Rare baby red-tailed tropic-bird on Maina
 |  View of Honeymoon Island from Maina
 |  Coconut demonstration
 | 
|  Dan and the prince demonstrate proper pareu technique
 |  Parachute pants...sexy!
 |  Preparing to demonstrate the haka
 |  Wait...first the prince has to hide a coconut in Dan's pants
 | 
|  Dancing the haka
 |  Dancing the haka
 |  Dancing the haka
 |  The Survivor tribal council spanish galleon on Aitutaki (far left)
 | 
|  Oh, it's the Bounty...that makes more sense
 |  There's no way they canoe from One Foot Island to Aitutaki...I bet TV will make it seem like they do, though
 |  Survivor crew camp...400 Americans, New Zealanders and a few locals have invaded
 |  Boats for some Survivor challenge
 | 
|  Returning to the harbor
 |  The Heineken Store...selling way more than just Heineken
 |  The Heineken Store...selling way more than just Heineken
 |  Air Rarotonga city ticket office...looks like the agent is on break
 | 
|  Maina Traders Superstore...the Wal-Mart of Aitutaki (OK, not quite)
 |  Island night at the Pacific Resort
 |  Island night at the Pacific Resort
 |  Island night at the Pacific Resort
 | 
|  Driving by Cafe Tupuna
 |  Driving around the island
 |  Orongo Centre...the center of Arutanga. This is the center of town, if you can believe it
 |  Mangrove tree?
 | 
|  Relaxing in a hammock
 |  History lesson: vehicle left behind by the US during WW2 when they built the old runway
 |  Giant banyan tree
 |  Giant banyan tree
 | 
|  Last look at the beach
 |  Dan tries out the pool
 |  Back to Raro
 |  Welcome back to Rarotonga
 |