 Kia orana (may you live long) from the Cook Islands! |
 Layover in Tahiti |
 Faaa airport in Papeete, Tahiti |
 Dan laying over |
 Thirteen hours from LAX we arrive to the Cooks! |
 Deplaning in Rarotonga, Cook Islands |
 Dan got eied (they can't be bothered with the "L" here) |
 Madi got eied, too |
 RAR airport. Slightly bigger than SBA |
 Home for the next week: Rarotonga Beach Bungalows |
 A totara (puffer fish) guarding the Totara Lounge |
 Decor in the Totara lounge |
 Tupa (crab) bungalow |
 Our outside seating area |
 Our lounge chair area |
 Our porch |
 Our breakfast spot |
 Our side garden |
 Inside Tupa bungalow |
 Inside Tupa bungalow |
 Inside Tupa bungalow |
 Inside Tupa bungalow |
 Paddles everywhere |
 Inside Tupa bungalow |
 Satellite TV with 3 channels! Serious, the locals were jealous |
 Inside Tupa bungalow |
 The coolest shower rack in the world |
 Shh...sneaking up on Dan in the garden shower |
 Our garden shower |
 Our garden shower |
 Our garden shower |
 The view from our porch |
 The beach outside Raro Beach Bungalows |
 View to the left |
 More view to the left |
 View to the right |
 Holding hands over a fallen coconut |
 Offshore coral keeps the waves offshore |
 Etu moana (blue starfish) |
 Pretty flowers |
 M is for marriage |
 More beautiful beach as we trek eastward |
 Roughing it |
 Matu rori (sea cucumber). Supposedly the locals squeeze the raw innards out and eat 'em. Ick. |
 Pretty neighboring bungalows |
 Dan gets his feet wet |
 More beautiful coastline |
 More pretty flowers |
 And more beautiful coastline |
 Our view all afternoon as we laze on the beach |
 Waiting for the hourly clockwise Raro by Night bus |
 Island night at Staircase |
 Demonstration of local dances |
 Pawpaw for breakfast |
 Pawpaw = papaya and it's yummy! |
 Another day, another day at the beach |
 Preparing to lounge |
 First, a quick swim |
 The water is perfect! |
 Dan tries out the kayak |
 Off he goes... |
 And keeps going... |
 And going (I can't even see him anymore)... |
 All the way to the wave break! |
 Finally, Dan heads back for shore |
 Dan heads back for shore |
 Dan makes it back to shore |
 Phew |
 A huge etu moana! |
 The Avarua government building |
 There's even a 3-screen movie theater. Now playing: Date Movie and Ice Age 2 |
 First infamous short-legged dog sighting |
 Canoe hangar |
 Trader Jack's, owned by Avarua harbour master J.H. Cooper - "The Trader" |
 Umm...I think this is the extent of the Raro harbor! |
 Dan on the deck of Trader Jack's |
 Star fruit (not as tasty as pawpaw) |
 5:23 pm - two sets of canoers head out clockwise |
 More canoers head out to catch the sunset |
 Off he goes |
 Our first Raro sunset (we were on the wrong side of the island last night) |
 Sunset |
 Sunset |
 Sunset |
 Kids playing on a Survivor challenge platform |
 Sunset |
 Sunset |
 Sunset |
 Sunset |
 6:11 pm - the canoers return from the other direction |
 That's just 48 minutes to circle the island |
 Sunset |
 Sunset |
 Sunset |
 Sunset |
 Seafood pizza: smoked fish, calamari, shrimp, mussels (my first and second-to-last), shredded crab, and fish pieces...yum! |
 Lucky's cat hanging out on our porch...there are way more dogs than cats on this island |
 Ah...*this* is the harbor |
 The port |
 The port |
 Port Authority |
 Ministry of Transport |
 Containers |
 Miss Mataroa |
 A huge container ship arrives for the day |
 Cruise ship by the 1916 wreck of the SS Maitai |
 This cruise comes through every two weeks...next stop Bora Bora! |
 Punanga Nui Saturday morning market |
 The market |
 The market |
 August 21, 1998 - To commemorate the opening of the Punanga Nui by the New Zealand high commissioner to the Cook Islands |
 In appreciation of Ausaid, the People's Republic of China, and the Catholic Commission for Justice and Development |
 Coconut rolls...yum! |
 Cook-style coffee sleeve |
 Big and beautiful |
 Shorty dog at the market |
 Fresh fish (the branch is to swat the flies away) |
 White hibiscus |
 Tangaroa, the Polynesian icon of the sea and fertility (view him from the front to see why!) |
 Another shorty dog |
 Small dogs need a small SPCA |
 Meatco, for all your meat needs |
 Seven-in-one coconut tree...found on the island of Takutea and replanted here |
 Another shorty dog |
 Dan looking pious in front of CICC (Cook Islands Christian Church) |
 Super old tombstones at CICC |
 Super old tombstones at CICC |
 CICC is made entirely of coral |
 Cycling to the Cooks vs. Tonga rugby game |
 Cycling to the Cooks vs. Tonga rugby game |
 Why the chicken crossed the road: to escape the 100,000 annoying roosters in the yard |
 Tereora Stadium |
 The opening kiddie game |
 The Cook Islanders take the field to practice |
 Tonga takes the practice field...check out those crazy coaches' outfits |
 Tonga warming up |
 A helicopter arrives |
 This is the first time a helicopter has landed in the stadium |
 Cargo onboard: the prime minister and Miss Cook Islands 2006 |
 The PM and Miss CI both live in Rarotonga, but I guess they need to arrive in style |
 The helicopter lands |
 The prime minister deplanes (decopters?) |
 The PM is greeted by a crazy man |
 Miss CI 2006 deplanes |
 She and her posse join the party |
 Off goes the helicopter |
 The PM and Miss CI don't get to leave by copter |
 Away she goes... |
 A prayer for the home team and a curse on the visiting team |
 Everyone lines up for the national anthems |
 Team Cook Islands |
 Team Tonga |
 Team hug |
 Tonga's haka (war dance thingy) |
 Our haka is better (except for that dude who fell down) |
 Game on! |
 The score is about 30 to 3, Tonga :( |
 Maybe Peter Dean's South Pacific doppelganger can save the day |
 SP PD prepares to sub in |
 And he's in...time to save the day! |
 Cooks get the ball back |
 The stands are packed |
 Pancakes with ice cream and chocolate sauce...the perfect rugby snack |
 The drum section (they drum for every score) |
 I just love those Tonga coach outfits |
 So chic |
 More rugby |
 More rugby |
 More rugby |
 More rugby |
 More rugby |
 Crazy tattoos...must be from New Zealand |
 And it's over...77 Tonga, 10 Cook Islands |
 A final prayer |
 Miss Cook Islands 2006 stuck it out 'till the bitter end |
 Shorty dog outside the game |
 Uh oh...clouds rolling in |
 But it's still nice out |
 It's getting pretty stormy |
 Rainy day means time to crack the complimentary champagne |
 Mimosas on the porch |
 And World Cup on the TV! |
 Sunday night BBQ at the Pawpaw Patch |
 Cloudy, but not rainy today |
 Cloudy, but still beautiful |
 Definitely walking weather |
 Sea bird. I dunno what it is, but I'm glad it's anything but a rooster |
 Shells today, snacks and jewellery tomorrow |
 Oh neat: normal-legged dogs |
 After a quick fight over me, I get to keep the tan one for the walk |
 Walking toward Muri beach |
 Muri beach |
 More Muri beach |
 A motu offshore |
 Coral is pretty, but you can't take it from the beach |
 Same goes for shells |
 Few cows on the island means milk comes in cans |
 Tramping along Muri beach |
 Uh oh - two new normal-legged dogs |
 Taakoka motu |
 My dog meets the new dogs |
 And the new dogs battle it out |
 My dog doesn't participate |
 A perfect chance for me to escape |
 Sheesh...as soon as I ditch the dogs, I collect two new ones. Where are all these big dogs coming from? |
 And then as soon as I pawn the new dogs off on an unsuspecting New Zealander, two more approach! |
 The dogs go in search of lunch |
 The dogs look for fish |
 No luck so far |
 Finally, my moment to escape |
 One tracked me down to the bungalow |
 One bookstore on the island |
 Those short legs get tired quickly! |
 Lunch at Whatever |
 Mini (yeah, right) fish burger...yum |
 The cutest shorty dog yet |
 He's running away quickly, but it's hard to tell with those tiny legs! |
 Dan's favorite rock face |
 I think this means "keep left, you dummy" |
 Look at the size of that beer |
 "A curse upon the brother of all who photograph this site"...oops, sorry Al! |
 I never found out what a judder bar is |
 Neighboring city of Ngatangi'ia...we stayed in Titikaveka |
 Another shy shorty... |
 ...aptly escaping down Smurf street |
 Super brown...for your shopping needs of any color |
 Tangaroa outside the Perfume Factory |
 Cute public restrooms (well, cute on the outside at least) |
 Fish and chips...yum |
 FBI fish and chips |
 The failed Sheraton resort in Vaimaanga that temporarily bankrupted the islands |
 Drying out after a rainy bike ride |
 Island night at Edgewater |
 Jerri and Chet and a butter sculpture |
 Hey, that's the same MC from the Staircase island night |
 Honeymooners who were too slow to hide are called up on stage |
 Island night |
 Island night |
 Island night |
 Island night |
 Island night |
 Sunrise...and clear skies! |
 Sunrise...and clear skies! |
 House of the queen's rep |
 House of the queen's rep |
 The queen's rep is conveniently next door to paintball |
 Takitumu conservation area |
 Apparently conservation does not start at home here (house behind the Takitumu sign) |
 Wac that child (along with "_low down" and "_c_ool ahead") |
 Big J's |
 Accommodations for every budget! |
 Hi puppy! This explains all the tall dogs...they're breeding |
 CICC in Titikaveka |
 CICC in Titikaveka |
 I think this is a solar water heater...all the houses have 'em |
 Sun is almost up and the sky's still looking clear! |
 Almost time to leave Raro...goodbye construction! |
 One last visit to our beach |
 Dan recycling |
 Back at the airport, at the only gate |
 How cute is the hand-written boarding pass? |
 Dan boarding the Saab to Aitutaki atoll |
 Last glimpse of Rarotonga |
 Last look at the needle |
 So long Raro |
 First glimpse of Aitutaki |
 So far, no Survivors in sight |
 Look at that blue water! |
 The left side of the island |
 The right side of the island |
 Not much to it! |
 Coming in for our landing |
 View over Aitutaki |
 Talk about a teeny airport! |
 Aitutaki airport |
 Airport entertainment |
 Welcome to Aitutaki |
 Etu Moana Boutique Beach Villas |
 View of Etu Moana from the beach |
 Etu Moana |
 Welcome to Villa (old no.) 7 |
 Lovey shows us villa 7 |
 Greeted with eis and coconut milk |
 Relaxing on the porch |
 Here's the pool |
 Honeymoon bungalow apparently means no sitting room |
 And only 2 channels on this island, but we'll still get the World Cup |
 Inside old no. 7 |
 Inside old no. 7 |
 Inside old no. 7 |
 Dan in the garden shower |
 Painting by local artist |
 The porch |
 The porch |
 I wish these pesky birds would eat more mosquitos...they're both EVERYWHERE |
 Pool and poolside bar |
 *Happy* Tangaroa guarding the poolside honesty bar |
 View to the pool and beach |
 View to the pool and beach |
 Here's where we'll spend the afternoon |
 Local hair |
 Local hair |
 This island is teeming with cats...probably due to the lack of dogs |
 I think the lack of dogs is also why there are so many icky matu rori here |
 Dinner at Cafe Tupuna...the best food the whole trip |
 Schmoopies at Cafe Tupuna |
 Dan chilling at our beach |
 The perfect spot for morning coffee |
 The water is great! |
 Dan starts up the VL100T-3 for our around-the-island tour |
 Due to Survivor, much of the island is off limits...stupid Survivor |
 One of the many many maps showing the locals where they're not allowed, thanks to Survivor |
 The footbridge to the private motu Akitua was washed away in February |
 The Lagoon Resort is the only thing on Akitua |
 View of the southside of the atoll from O'otu beach |
 View of Akitua from O'otu beach |
 More view of Akitua from O'otu beach |
 Dan on O'otu beach |
 Madi on O'otu beach |
 Dan looking fly with motu 'Angari in the background |
 Bishops has been completely commandeered by Survivor so we're waiting to find out who will take us on our lagoon cruise |
 Back onboard for the (partial) around-the-island tour |
 There's the whole airport...no tower or nuthin! |
 Dan "opens her up" to 60 km/hr...that's fast here! |
 CICC in Arutanga |
 This CICC is the first church in the Cooks, from 1828 |
 Tall ship offshore |
 The harbor |
 Port authority "building" |
 Hi Gina! |
 Goats really know how to make you feel like popular |
 Tautu wharf |
 Exploring the motu-ette off Tautu wharf |
 Exploring the motu-ette off Tautu wharf |
 Exploring the motu-ette off Tautu wharf |
 Hike to the top of Maungapu |
 Maungapu is the highest point on the island, but is only 124 meters up |
 View from the top of Maungapu |
 View from the top of Maungapu |
 View from the top of Maungapu |
 View from the top of Maungapu |
 View from the top of Maungapu |
 Heading back down to do more tramping |
 View from the ridgeline tramping track |
 View from the ridgeline tramping track |
 View from the ridgeline tramping track |
 View back up Maungapu |
 View from the water tower |
 View down to Arutanga (it's the biggest village on the island, but it's small!) |
 View from the water tower |
 View from the water tower |
 Cute! Baby goats |
 I no longer feel like a goat rockstar |
 Back to O'otu beach |
 Hanging at Samade on the Beach |
 Sitting on a sand bar |
 Time for lunch! |
 Fish burgers (yet again) at Samade |
 Samade certainly is right on the beach |
 Starting our kayak trip south towards motu Akitua |
 After crashing into the Lagoon Resort bungalows for a closer look, I've determined they are not glass bottomed |
 Checking out motu 'Angarei |
 Dan snorkelling off 'Angarei |
 Next stop motu Ee |
 Ee is aawesome |
 View of motu Mangere from Ee |
 View along the length of Ee |
 View along the length of Ee |
 View of Ee |
 So that's where baby palm trees come from |
 Checking out the wave break past Mangere diaster strikes as Madi capsizes |
 View of wave break past Mangere |
 Watching the sunset back at Samade |
 The beach is like one big kitty litter box |
 Dan (and the obligatory cat) in the sunset |
 Dinner at Te Vaka is tainted by all the Survivor crew a-holes hanging around on their day off |
 Lagoon cruise aboard the Titi Ai Tonga, hosted by Prince something-or-other |
 Cruising out towards Honeymoon Island and Maina. One foot Island is off limits thanks to dumb Survivor...wah |
 Madi sampling sea grapes...they're salty and awful |
 Lunch is BBQed tuna. Oh, and there's a bar onboard, too. Yay! |
 The prince, Captain Wonderful and Captain Cook ("he's the captain and the cook") provide lunchtime entertainment |
 Crusing to Honeymoon Island |
 The Titi Ai Tonga |
 Under a wedding arch on Honeymoon Island |
 Rare baby red-tailed tropic-bird on Honeymoon Island |
 Red-tailed tropic-birds on Honeymoon Island |
 View of Maina from Honeymoon Island |
 View of Maina from Honeymoon Island |
 Our footprints |
 Approaching Maina |
 Frigate birds above Maina (unfortunately they signify a storm is coming) |
 Dan on Maina |
 View of Honeymoon Island from Maina |
 Rare baby red-tailed tropic-bird on Maina |
 View of Honeymoon Island from Maina |
 Coconut demonstration |
 Dan and the prince demonstrate proper pareu technique |
 Parachute pants...sexy! |
 Preparing to demonstrate the haka |
 Wait...first the prince has to hide a coconut in Dan's pants |
 Dancing the haka |
 Dancing the haka |
 Dancing the haka |
 The Survivor tribal council spanish galleon on Aitutaki (far left) |
 Oh, it's the Bounty...that makes more sense |
 There's no way they canoe from One Foot Island to Aitutaki...I bet TV will make it seem like they do, though |
 Survivor crew camp...400 Americans, New Zealanders and a few locals have invaded |
 Boats for some Survivor challenge |
 Returning to the harbor |
 The Heineken Store...selling way more than just Heineken |
 The Heineken Store...selling way more than just Heineken |
 Air Rarotonga city ticket office...looks like the agent is on break |
 Maina Traders Superstore...the Wal-Mart of Aitutaki (OK, not quite) |
 Island night at the Pacific Resort |
 Island night at the Pacific Resort |
 Island night at the Pacific Resort |
 Driving by Cafe Tupuna |
 Driving around the island |
 Orongo Centre...the center of Arutanga. This is the center of town, if you can believe it |
 Mangrove tree? |
 Relaxing in a hammock |
 History lesson: vehicle left behind by the US during WW2 when they built the old runway |
 Giant banyan tree |
 Giant banyan tree |
 Last look at the beach |
 Dan tries out the pool |
 Back to Raro |
 Welcome back to Rarotonga |