Yemen, what a great country to visit. I spent there three weeks - in December 2007 and January 2008. The route of the trip was Sana'a - Shibam - Al-Mukalla - Aden - Taizz - Zabid - Al-Hudaydah - Kawkaban - Sana'a. I travelled using public transport, unlike most of tourists in Yemen travelling in rented Toyotas Land Cruisers.

some tips for budget travellers

Sana'a
-accommodation
There are some traditional style hotels inside the old city, like Taj Talha Hotel, Dawood Hatel or Sana Nights, they are locate very near to each other, in the wester part of the old town. These are old tall buildings, rooms are rather spartan and noisy, in fact the only good thinkg about them is a nice view from their roofs. And they are not that cheap, at least 25$ for a double room. There is a good option on the edge of the old town, at Tahrir Square, There is a new hotel Wadi Hadamout, rooms are very clean and quiet, the location is great and there is even a nice view over the old town from the roof. Prices from about 20$ for a double, bargain hard. There are some cheaper options near Tahrir square as well, like Al Nasr hotel, where double rooms cost about 10$ or Manakha where doubles are sth like 7$.
-food
There is a cluster of about 10 restaurants on street 24, very popular with local people, always crowded, just off Tahrir Square, you can have breakfast, lunch and dinner there. Breakfast for two costs between 1$ and 2$, lunch between 3$ and 6$. a nice place to have tea or ice-cream is Al-Asdeqa near Tahrir.
-transportation
You don't need to use taxis - dababs (minivans) go to all places in Sana'a, for as little as 20rials (0.1$), sometimes you need to change the dabab once or twice to get to the destination, but it is easy. Just tell the driver where do you want to go, he will tell you where to get off or put you in another dabab, takes a little practise, but works fine.

-visiting Wadi Hadramout
We flew from Sana'a to Sayun, a one way ticket with Yemenia cost 80$, the flight was at 8am, took less than 1 hour. Probaly it is possible to go by public bus across the desert via Marib, but all books and websites say that the road is dangerous, there are countless checkpoints and often tourist are not allowed to travel this road.

Sayun
- accommodation
Rayboon hotel near the Palace is the most popular budget hotel, rooms are ok, there is another hotel almost next door, similar standard. prices are low, like 8$ for a double.
-food
there is a nice restaurant on the corner opposite to the palace, always crowded, a very good place for an evening tea or sandwich and chat with random people. There are some restaurants at a square opposite to the market, there is one very friendly with English signs outside. There is always someone speaking English in each of the restaurants.

-visiting Shibam
There is only one hotel in Shibam, rather overpriced, and there are no restaurants in town. The best option is to stay in Sayun and visit Shibam, it is a 20km ride, you can rent the whole taxi for 400rials (2$) one way, or less than 100rials in a shared taxi.

-visiting Wadi Dawan
We met some people in Sayun and together rented a minivan in Sayun for a day trip, paid 15000rials, that included the driver and fuel. Just ask around in hotels if you need a car. You can also rent a Toyota Land Cruiser for a day for 20.000 rials from Universal company, on the side of the Palace.

more information will follow soon

thank you for you comments and votes


19.01.2008 - Today two Belgian tourists travelling in a convoy of tourist Land Cruisers were killed in Hadramout province, what a tragedy, it is hard to believe that.... I felt so safe there.
news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/middle_east/7196186.stm It is a real tragedy for this country, as they try really hard to encourage tourists to visit Yemen and you feel so much welcome there, so many people tell you with a smile "Welcome to Yemen", nobody tries to rip you off, people try to help when you are in need, you feel like being their guest, and everybody is your host. But unfortunatelly there is a bunch of violent idiots who spoil everything. What a pity...