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***UPDATED SEPT 20 2008***

Over the past few years I've received so many questions via email and forum PMs that I have decided to post this FAQ page. [BTW, many answers are posted and scattered all over my site on different pages, so please look around as well.]

Q1: Which lens do you use most?
A1: That's a tough one ( http://www.pbase.com/lightrules/my_lenses ), but the two I use most often are the Sigma 30 f1.4 and Canon 17-55 f2.8 IS. Both are very sharp, even wide open, and the colors from these lenses really "pop".

Q2: What is your favorite 3rd party lens maker?
A2: As of right now, Sigma / Tamron / Tokina each make some excellent glass. Tokina lenses these days have tremendous build quality, Tamron really knows how to make good optics, and Sigma has the most versatile line-up (i.e., most lenses, OS, HSM). They each have their "great glass" and their "not so great" glass. So it really is a case-by-case basis. But all three companies are releasing some new and exciting lenses.

Q3: I'm just starting out in digital photography and have a Rebel XS. I want to get a 50mm prime, so should I get the 50f1.8 or go for the 50f1.4?
A3: You've probably seen this already http://www.pbase.com/lightrules/50v50 , but my short answer is this: if you can afford the f1.4 lens, get it. If you're financially tight at the moment, there is NO shame in getting the f1.8 (for $75). It is a very good optic that won't break the bank and will teach you a lot about composition and depth-of-field. In addition, I was able to sell my f1.8 for 90% of what I paid. Not bad!

Q4: I'm looking for a long lens, something for birding, wildlife, safaris, and the like. Which lens is best?
A4: I'll defer this question to Art Morris. This is an excellent read http://www.birdsasart.com/faq.html

Q5: It seems most people insist on either B+W or Heliopan filters. Are there any more inexpensive alternatives?
A5: Yes. So long as you get "multi-coated" filters, IQ won't degrade all that much, if any (to the naked eye). Now there are varying degrees of the quality of multi-coating, but don't worry too much about it. Obviously if you're shooting in high flare conditions, a UV filter is going to exacerbate any potential problems, multi-coated or not, but for the most part, get yourself a "multi-coated" filter and you will be fine. See this test http://www.pbase.com/lightrules/uvtest2 . As for my own choice of UV filter, I use the Hoya Super HMC UV[O] filters on all my glass.

Q6: What is the best standard zoom/walk-around lens for me?
A6: I can't answer this for you, only you can. But on a FF body, the best "for the money" IMO is the Sigma 24-70EX; it's simply THE CLOSEST THING to the excellent Canon 24-70L. [The Tamron 28-75Di is also a fine choice but lacks the build-feel, 24mm, and AF speed of the Sigma EX.] Look around my site for plenty test shots, including this http://www.pbase.com/lightrules/shootout . However, on a crop body, I think it's better to use a lens that starts around the 16mm-18mm mark. Lenses such as the Canon 17-40L/17-55IS/17-85IS, Sigma 18-50EX/17-70DC, Tamron 17-50, or the Tokina 16-50DX, are all good ones to look at. If you want a one-lens solution, look at the Sigma 18-200 OS or the (not yet released) Canon 18-200 IS and Tamron 18-270 VC.

Q7: Which is the BEST macro lens to get?
A7: First of all, practically all dedicated macro lenses (i.e., lenses that reproduce a 1:1 image size) are brutally sharp, including at the borders. There are a number of good (and popular) macro lenses like the Sigma 50/105/150/180, Canon 60/100/180, Tamron 90/180, and the Tokina 100. Your subjects will mostly determine which lens you should get (especially vis-a-vis subject distance). Personally, I really like the Sigma 150 EX Macro.

Q8: I want a good UWA lens for my 50D. Which one should I get?
A8: The Canon 10-22, Sigma 10-20, Tokina 12-24, and Tokina 11-16 (sharpest) are the ones to look at. Each have their strengths, but I personally like the 11-16 f2.8.

Q9: What is your opinion on getting a 2xTC? Also, which 1.4xTC should I get?
A9: I'm in the camp that thinks 2xTCs degrade IQ too much. I have both the Tamron "F" and Kenko Pro 2xTCs but they get very little use, if any. Most bodies won't AF with them either. As for 1.4xTCs, there are a lot of good options, but my choice is the Kenko Pro (or Tamron SP, which is the same TC really). The main reasons why I recommend the Kenko Pro are (1) much lower price than the Canon version, (2) optically similar, (3) physically fits most lenses, (4) AF can easily be retained on many body/lens combinations by simply taping the 3 left pins. For more see http://www.pbase.com/lightrules/14xtctest .

Q10: I'm fairly new to DSLRs and have been reading posts on forums about lens problems, especially focusing issues. What's the best way to check that my lens(es) are focusing correctly?
A10: First and most importantly, read with a grain of salt what you see at online forums, especially DPR. There are a lot more complainers than praisers of any given lens, and this can lead to lens "analysis-paralysis" for many folks, especially "newbies". While it is true that every lens can have a problem out-of-the-box, assume your copy is fine unless shown otherwise. That said, the way I go about checking my own lenses for accurate focusing is BOTH by shooting specific test subjects AND real-life, outdoor shots. I always make sure that my subjects are well-lit (to give me fast shutter speeds) and have plenty of contrast to them (so that the AF is as accurate as possible). I take multiple shots at or near wide open apertures, mostly trying the extremes of the focal lengths (e.g., for a 17-85mm lens I test primarily 17mm and 85mm), use centerpoint AF, force a re-focus each time, use a tripod when possible, and take the best of the bunch for any given aperture. It would take me a while to list my exact "focus test protocol" here, but what I've written so far is the gist of my process. The key is this (assuming little to no user error): CONSISTENCY. Look for repeated, consistent results. Don't make any conclusion simply based on a few snaps, or if shutter speeds are too slow, or for whatever other reasons. Spend some time with the new lens (maybe a week) and shoot with it a lot. You will certainly come to see consistency of some sort, be it promising or not. But the key again is consistency of results. Don't jump to conclusions too quickly but spend some time with the lens and get to know its pros and cons; with time you'll be able to make a more definitive judgment on the quality of your particular lens (and especially its focusing accuracy).

Q11: What is "the best" TRAVEL lens that is also lightweight and convenient?
A11: IMO, using a crop body, the Sigma 18-200 OS is tops currently. It has good imaging quality overall (with some weak spots here and there) and its convenience, OS, and focal range is excellent.

Q12: Which should I get, the Canon 70-200 f2.8IS or the 70-200 f4IS?
A12: Having used both lenses extensively, and having tested them out thoroughly, in terms of IQ per se, the newer f4IS is sharper at closer focus distances and they even out as you move toward infinity focus (with the f2.8IS performing slightly better). As for contrast and color and "pop", the f4IS is slightly more "punchy" and vibrant again at closer subject distances, and as you move toward infinity focus distances the f2.8IS meets or exceeds the f4IS. That said, both are excellent performers across the board, and IMO the decision as to which to purchase comes down to whether you want/need f2.8 versus f4 and the corresponding weight/size issue. Build, AF, weathersealing are all top-grade for each. I like to use the f2.8IS when I want a little more background blur and the f2.8 speed it offers as well. See this for some comparison shots http://www.pbase.com/lightrules/70200f4lis

Q13: What tripod and ballhead combination do you use? How about a monopod?
A13: I use the Feisol "CT-3301N" 3-section carbon fiber tripod and a Manfrotto 488RC2 ballhead (with quick-release plates for each of my bigger lenses). The 488RC2 is rated up to 17.6 pounds, and my current heaviest need is about 9 pounds, so it's perfect. I also frequently use a wired shutter release, when possible. As for my monopod, I use the super-light but very stable Slik Pro Pod 381 Carbon Fiber unit http://www.thkphoto.com/products/slik/slik-13.html .

Q14: What photo bags do you personally own/use?
A14: Like women and purses, photographers love their bags, and I've got a handful myself. In Lowepro, I have the Nova 5 AW, CompuDayPack, Flipside 300, Slingshot 200 AW, Fastpack 250, and Toploader 75 AW. In Crumpler I have the 6 Million Dollar Home. And in Tamrac I have the Expedition 5. I *really* like (and highly recommend) the Lowepro Flipside 300.