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andy | all galleries >> Mountain >> Mountain Summer > Bear Creek Spire, NE Ridge with Little Lakes Valley in background
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31-JUL-2004

Bear Creek Spire, NE Ridge with Little Lakes Valley in background

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My son Kyle following me on the classic NE Ridge (class 4) of Bear Creek Spire 13,713'.
This route was first climbed by the sierra pioneer, Norman Clyde in May 1932.

We camped at Dade Lake, a somewhat barren lake surrounded by talus and fantastic views of BCS, Pipsqueak Spire, and Mt. Dade. Quick hiking along slabs brought us to the base of the ridge where we climbed unroped past gnarled black towers. As the angle increased, we broke out a short length of 8mm and used a combination of static belay and simul-climbing to reach the summit ridge (as pictured here). A short steep crack followed, then we were at the summit register. Actually the summit block requires a bouldering move to get on top. I had Kyle give me a belay to do this exposed move.

Descent requires reversal of the summit ridge then a short, steep downclimb to 2nd and 3rd class ledges on the west side. Once at the saddle, we turned back to the east, just below the NE Buttress route (looks fun!). Glissading snowfields brought us back to easy talus and slabs.
A classic route! Highly recommended. Note: large talus fields must be crossed to access the Morgan Pass trail at Gem Lakes.

Canon EOS 300D Digital Rebel
1/1250s f/8.0 at 24.0mm iso200 full exif

other sizes: small medium large original auto
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Greg Lief04-Jul-2012 23:01
COOL!
Steve Fink06-Aug-2009 15:20
Wow!
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