The collar is sewn on, not cut on, as it may appear while folded back in its proper position. Here it is held open. This was the trickiest part of the whole jacket, as with the upper collar, under collar, jacket and facing all coming together at a single point, there were 12 layers of fabric here. A good steaming and a clapper did the trick, after I basted and then hand-stitched the area from the right side. There's a lot of shape built into this seam, and the collar stays rolled beautifully. It's very similar to the Marfy #9419 jackets I've made, except they do have a cut-on collar with a strategically placed fisheye dart to do the job of this seam. It makes for a much easier construction than this jacket.