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Bryant Furnace Pressure Switch Replacement

FYI for anyone having similar problems with a Bryant furnace pressure switch. Your problem may be different. Working with a gas furnace and electricity is dangerous and can cause serious damage or death. You should or should not use this information at your own risk entirely.

Symptoms: in wet weather or after long periods of inactivity, the furnace would not start properly, would shut down with error code.

Cause: The pressure switch tends to get stuck thus throwing the respective error code and causing the system to shut down before trying to ignite the burners.

Solution: Temporary - you may tap on the pressure switch and that may be all that's nessesary to fix it for a few weeks/months as it did for me for some time. I had already ordered and received the replacement pressure switch, part number HK06NB124 from AllParts in Milwakee, WI. Total cost with shipping was just under $70. The new part looks a little different, but fits perfectly and seems to work fine. Very easy to replace, only a pair of pliers and a flat head screwdriver are necessary.

Found references to this very issue in several online repair forums, but can't find the links anymore. Generally, folks have been complaining that their pressure switches malfunctioned or got clogged with dust. Mine seemed clean when I took it out to check it. It tended to get stuck, so tapping it helped for a while. Hope this page here might help someone with a similar problem to get it solved relatively cheap.
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AL OLSEN 03-Apr-2013 19:57
Hi,great site. Hav e 90+ Bryant. Called company, would not help.
Found screen on top with income air full of weeds&leaves. 3in pvc. Helped, but still have problem. Sometimes will not start until I turn power sw off and on couple times.Tapped on press sw first, did not help.
Have not tried self-test yet. thanks guys AL
AL OLSEN 03-Apr-2013 19:55
Hi,great site. Hav e 90+ Bryant. Called company, would not help.
Found screen on top with income air full of weeds&leaves. 3in pvc. Helped, but still have problem. Sometimes will not start until I turn power sw off and on couple times.Tapped on press sw first, did not help.
Have not tried self-test yet. thanks guys AL
AL OLSEN 03-Apr-2013 19:54
Hi,great site. Hav e 90+ Bryant. Called company, would not help.
Found screen on top with income air full of weeds&leaves. 3in pvc. Helped, but still have problem. Sometimes will not start until I turn power sw off and on couple times.Tapped on press sw first, did not help.
Have not tried self-test yet. thanks guys AL
Guest 23-Mar-2013 01:29
I have a Bryant 80 plus do u have any suggestions we can try for a code 33. The furnace is on but blowing only cold air
Willie 22-Mar-2013 15:23
I have 2-year old Payne unit. Had same problems with code 31. Called several companies and they were going to charge me $75 just to diagnose the problem. Afraid I was going to have to pay a few hundred bucks, I began reading some posts. First time I had 31 appear, I cleaned the condensate trap as best I could. Unit ran for a few days and got code 31 again. Tapped on the pressure switch and worked for one full cycle only. For us, that meant a nice and cozy home at night, but very cold in the morning. I did kept tapping on the switch for three nights, and finally found a place locally where I found a replacement switch for $47. Replaced the pressure switch last week and my unit is working again!!! Nothing against professionals but I just feel that sometimes companies do take advantage of the homeowner. While I don't expect for professionals to work for free, I also don't thinking charging $300 to replace a part that costs $50 in 5 minutes is right. To those handy homeowners, after making sure nothing is obstructing the flow of air and gases, and making sure the condensate trap is clear of any debris, I say GO AHEAD and spend those $50 replacing your pressure switch. I'm sure you'll find that replacement piece within a hour of where you live if you need to fix the problem immediately.
pong 17-Mar-2013 17:30
Thanks for hosting this - I had a 31 code and tapped on the switch but it wouldn't stay running. I took out the hose from the bottom to blow on it and water poured out - and then I realized that condenser filter was clogged just like Joe said.
Seth 14-Mar-2013 23:41
My code 32 (orange light blinks three times, green light blinks twice) turned out to be a clog in the condensation drain trap. It is the white block that has the water line exiting the furnace. I removed the hoses, and removed the trap. Lots of shaking with hot water and soap in it broke up the crud. Put it all back together and it worked.
Guest 26-Jan-2013 17:23
Make sure the 1/4" drain line as good slope, it should dump/attach at a right angle up at the connection to the trap box.
Dean 26-Jan-2013 02:48
Have a bryant 90 plus I and notice code 32 which is low pressure switch fault looked at the high and lower switches and noticed a tear in the lower switch baffle. So I replaced the upper and lower switches because they come as a pair. Put them back in and now i see the same code again. I'm wondering until the service guy gets here how do I jump the switches to get the furnace to run temporarily for tonight.
John 24-Jan-2013 03:12
I had the same problem after not using furnace for 5 months. Tapped on high pressure switch has worked the last 2 years. If your furnace won't stay lit, you may need an auxilary ground. Sensor and computer need good ground to work. Also, try setting the furnace to high fire only from the 4 switches on the CPU. If your gas line pressure is low, this can cause furnace to not stay lit no matter what you do. To clean flame proving sensor, I like to use very fine emery cloth and wipe with alcohol.
Guest 23-Jan-2013 05:48
I have a Bryant 90+gas furnace model 350mav048100 I cleaned the sensor furnace would lite and blower would come on seemed like it was working fine until it won,t start again until I turned off power then on then it would lite would not staylit long enough to worm the house had to reset power again. anyone have any answers thanks.
Guest 11-Jan-2013 14:49
My furnace is set on 65 when I am at work. When I get home I turn it up to72 it takes about 3 hours before it comes on
Joe 03-Jan-2013 01:37
Worked for me too for now at least. Usually when I get the code 31 over the years I'd take out the condensate trap and flush it under the faucet till no crud comes out. This time it didn't work. Even blew compressed air through the lines. I was about to give up and turn on the stove top and space heater, then tried tapping on the pressure switch and IMMEDIATELY the LED quit blinking and my heat came back on. Hopefully I'll have time to order a replacement before it fails completely.
Tuan 29-Dec-2012 22:29
My Ryant 80 plus won't shut off. I can not turn it off with the thermostat. It runs forever until I manually switch the power to off position.
C Schultz 27-Dec-2012 16:51
Bryant Furnace Model 394G Coes on runs for about 30 seconds and stops.
Does this continually. ??
Hector 27-Dec-2012 03:22
Had same problem with our 3 year old Bryant furnace, not sure of model type. I disconnected the bottom hose from the pressure switch and blew on it like you said and my furnace started right away. Your advise help our family from freezing tonight and also financially. Thanks for taking the time to create this valuable resource!
Guest 23-Dec-2012 15:50
I don't believe it!!! Flicking the pressure switch with my finger and wham, heater back on. Thanks a million, we are on the Christmas weekend and no one to help out and this post saved the day!
kocho25-Jun-2012 17:08
The pressure switch on my unit is on the front of the unit, visible once the front sheet metal panel is removed (held by I think 4 screws). Looks like what I got in the photo - whould be a couple of wires and a couple of houses connected to it. The trouble code descriptions were on the inside of that front panel too.
Guest 16-Feb-2012 15:08
I know that this is an old post, but I am having similar issues with my Bryant plus 80 furnace. My code is 31 and my furnace turns on if it is continuously coming on and off, but doesn't after a few hours of activity. I want to try all of your suggestions, but I am not sure where the pressure switch is. Can someone let me know
or post a picture? I am a girl trying to fix this and I am by no means hvac smart :). Thank you to anyone that can help!!
Guest 16-Feb-2012 15:06
I know that this is an old post, but I am having similar issues with my Bryant plus 80 furnace. My code is 31 and my furnace turns on if it is continuously coming on and off, but doesn't after a few hours of activity. I want to try all of your suggestions, but I am not sure where the pressure switch is. Can someone let me know
or post a picture? I am a girl trying to fix this and I am by no means hvac smart :). Thank you to anyone that can help!!
Matt 13-Dec-2011 12:24
I have Bryant 80 plus with the same symptoms, i.e., difficult to start after a long (few hours) inactivity. However, tapping on the gas valve won't help. I can hear the click and hiss, and smell the gas afterward. All it needs is more (more than the default 3) attempts. That is done just by flipping the reset button. Once the flame is lit, it is usually okay for the rest of the day (with the on and off cycle). I was about to replace the gas valve but not convinced enough that it is the cause. Any other possible cause?
Larry 06-Dec-2011 22:05
Thanks tried to buy a Switch locally but the dealers/distributors in upstate NY wouldn't sell directly to a homeowner. Will check out All parts on the net
Guest 06-Dec-2011 14:28
OK... FOR THOSE WHO CAN NOT GET IT TO WORK BY A "FLICK" THE ALTERNATIVE IS TO TAKE OF THE BOTTOM HOSE , NOT FROM THE SWITCH ITSELF BUT AT THE JUNCTION AND BLOW INTO THE LINE UNTIL YOU HEAR THE DIAFRAM OR BLATTER CLOSE... GREAT COMMENT IYLE!
selvin 13-Nov-2011 21:11
Selvin
i have the bryant 80 plus furnace when i flip the power swich off and on a fue second the motor come on
Alden 12-Nov-2011 17:39
I found this forum $279.00 too late. Have a 13 yr old Bryant 90 Plus and this morning no running furnace. Blower fan but on heat. Called Hales Corners HCV and replaced the pressure switch. 89 to locate broblem and 175.00 for switch with 2 min lobor
Guest 06-Nov-2011 00:03
Life saver! THANK YOU!!! I actually just jumped the switch wires (FOR TONIGHT ONLY) but now I know where to go from here. It's great to know there are others out there who have been there, and share how they fixed it!
Jim 29-Oct-2011 01:52
Read your text, it helped me 100%, Tapped, blew into hoses. Thanks Jim
LTee 02-Oct-2011 10:34
Many thanks for this great advice! Living in Midwest and getting ready for the first cold weather, of course our furnace did not start. Based on your page I just have been able to turn it on. :-)
P.S.: Williams Comfort Air, the company we have service contract with, could not come out to check the problem for a week. Very sad. Definitely not going to renew our service contract with them. Many thanks again!
Frederick Maryland 31-Jan-2011 06:48
Add another victory to your site! Mine is a new furnace, only 3 months of use on it, but I guess the pressure switch is craptastic. One flick of the index finger on the switch and it cycled the furnace... and I checked it with a conductivity meter before flicking it... it definitely was closed pre-flick. Thanks! (Now to call the HVAC guy that installed this and get him out ASAP for a permanent fix.)
Mike 26-Jan-2011 00:46
Thanks for the good advice - the internet is great. Removing the hose at the combustion chamber and sucking on it as IYLE suggested did the trick. Nice to have heat! Cold in Wisconsin tonight!
Bilal 17-Jan-2011 12:27
Thanks a lot, solved the issue right away, after peering through other DIY sites and not finding any fix on the pressure switch.
Guest 05-Jan-2011 01:28
Thank you for posting this information! I have the same furnace which was flashing error code 31 which caused the LED to flash 3 times fast and 1 time long. I disconnected the pressure switch you have pictured and the two hoses on either end, and blew into each hose and each inlet on the pressure switch. I could feel the switch become unstuck when I blew into one of the inlets on the pressure switch, and then my furnace was working. Thanks again!
kocho11-Nov-2010 13:59
Glad it was helpful! Looks like the same thing is beginning to happen on my second level airconditioning unit (also a Bryant model) - tapping the pressure switch helped there too.

A few months ago I also had to replace the three prong capacitor on the outside cooling unit (the heat exchanger). All fans would work but the A/C would not blow cold air. The old capacitor had swelled as if about to burst but was not yet leaking - still, not working. A local appliance and parts store had the item for $20 and the replacement took about 5 minutes. Where did I find the answer - the Internet -;).
Guest 07-Nov-2010 21:34
I love the internet, Thanks you guys, I got up this morning to a cold house, Sunday morning none the less, I hated to even try to find a repairman on Sunday let alone pay the OT. I fiddled around for 7 hours trying to figure out the problem, cleaned the sensor that didn't work. Came here found the answer went straight to it and now I'm warming up.
Thank You, Thank You
Becky
Guest 30-Mar-2010 15:14
Hi, have the same switch, same problem with the switch, found alot of moisture/water going to the pressure switch, wasn't draining, drained water, now running when it should without tapping switch.Thanks to your site, found the problem.
bhill 08-Mar-2010 17:55
what is code 33 or 32
catherine Clement 27-Feb-2010 17:51
Thanks for this. It did help us - at least temporarily. How did you find the instructions to actually replace the part yourself? Looks a bit complicated in there. GUEST
Ken Kovacs 25-Feb-2010 18:27
How do I register my new Bryant furncace
Guest 23-Jan-2010 18:13
WHAT DOES IT LOOK LIKE?
Guest 23-Jan-2010 18:07
Is it the hose that runs into the unit from the roof? If so I see there is a brun hole in the rubber washer around the tube...is that bad?
Guest 23-Jan-2010 18:05
WHAT DOES IT LOOK LIKE?
lYLE 03-Jan-2010 14:19
IF THE TAPPING ON THE PRESSURE SWITCH DOESN'T WORK?...TRY TAKING THE RUBBER HOSE FROM THE SWITCH TO THE COMBUSTION CHAMBER OFF AT THE COMBUSTION SIDE...BLOW AND SUCK MULTIPLE TIMES MAY LOOSEN IT UP...MINE WAS STUCK OPEN,AND BLEW INTO IT AT A STEADY PRESSURE UNTILL THE BURNERS IGNITED...GOOD TEMP FIX UNTILL YOU GET A NEW SWITCH...MAKE SURE YOUR FILTERS ARE CLEAN AND EXSAUST VENT ON THE ROOF ISN'T ICED SHUT...
Peter 10-Dec-2009 14:06
You saved our lives!! Major Winter storm in 2009. Coldest day with wind chill warnings of 25 below in Iowa. Your tip worked fine!! Thanks.
ping 06-Dec-2009 18:09
Thanks. It is working by just tapping on the pressure switch several times. It is 40 degree outside and I am so happy the heater is working again : )
Kedar 20-Jul-2009 00:42
Mihail, Thanks for this post. I am in process of buying a foreclosed home. Furnace had pressure switch stuck open. I tapped on it a few times and miraculously furnace started.
Again, thanks for this clear and concise post.
Seattle HAwk Daddy 22-Dec-2008 09:18
This site saved me. After reading info I tapped on the pressure switch nd BAMM let there be light. Prior to this I had no flames and now we have heat.

I have the Bryant 80 plus furnace so I need to know if I have to replace both of the pressure switches.

Thanks
Scott 15-Dec-2008 00:49
A huge thanks! This one pulled me out of a panic and turned my heat back on. I didn't noticed until the house hit 65 and no heat. There is a winter snow storm hitting MN right now and this helps like hell!

Thanks again for the perfect quick (temporary) fix!
dave c 24-Nov-2008 02:04
just a thank you. I have the same pressure switch problem and was able to solve it thanks to your site.
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