Well, I finally got one. This thing is great.. Rather than a separate ram and bolt like on a traditional autococker. They intergrated the 2 together to create a ram-bolt. the ram bolt works much like the ram/hammer on a timmy/impulse/tribal and most other stack tubed electros. But the ram bolt on other markers is a tube within the tube of the body. On the ram bolt it uses the body tube as the operation cylinder. Which means something is needed to prevent the bolt from going too far forward or backward. Well, there is a thin ring that devides the front and rear air port like the head of the shaft on a standard cocker ram. But rather than the shaft moving, the entire "ram/bolt" moves while the divider ring remains in place. This ring is held in place by the thumb located on the top of the body. Now like on a cocker, the bolt is not connected directly to the hammer, but pushes the back block back when it moves, thus pulling the hammer back by way of a cocking rod (again like an autococker). So the air leading to the "ram/bolt" enters directly into the upper tube of the body, and the 3 way is located directly on the side of the trigger frame. This makes for much shorter lp hose for less air consumption, cleans up the front end, and makes timing rod binding much less of an issue. The frame uses a standard cocker sear with a pre98 trigger plate. The sear spring is much shorter than a cocker, but the trigger return spring looks basically the same. The LPR is located directly on the front of the front block/vertical asa assembly much like on a spyder. The unique part is when you remove the screw in the bottom of the body to remove the front block assembly, the valve is attatched. Once it is removed the valve can be unscrewed from the inner end of the front block assembly. so no valve guide screws or jam nuts needed.
The only disadvantages I see to this operation is bolt weight cannot be reduced nearly as much as like on a cocker. And quick bolt removal is non-existant. There is 1 added step, the removal of the top thumb screw. And when putting back the divider ring must be aligned with the hole before putting the thumb screw back into place.
The pro are a much lighter and smaller body. A much cleaner look than that of a cocker as well. When these came out new they were designed with the tournment player in mind. The trigger frames are way smoother than any WGP slider ever thought about being..
More later on a SOV II, hehe..