50's style 2 piece ash body from MusiKraft in Sicklerville, NJ |
I started this project intending to just replace another body for this one. |
The holes for the string ferruls did not come countersunk |
I like the squared off edges and edge radius similar to early Fenders |
This body was considered paint grade and therefore only cost about a $100 |
The bridge mounting holes were tapped but not drilled (as were the neck) |
Note my super clean work area. |
To get the proper shade of filler for the ash I mix light with natural |
The filler is applied into the grain and the excess wiped off |
I'll clean the ferrul holes out later |
It will hang to dry overnight |
At this stage neatness is not a big concern |
The next day I've taken it outside to sand the excess filler off |
I'll remove the filler from the surface leaving the pores and grain filled |
A sanding block helps keep the surface flat |
A vibrating sander speeds things up |
I'm now ready to apply a lacquer sanding sealer. |
Brushed on it will hang to dry overnight |
Back outside again to sand off the sealer from the surface |
Nearly messed it up trying to rub on a tint coat (I also added the channel to the neck) |
The lacquer is strong so will hang in the garage overnight |
Using a foam brush I was able to tint it a little more consistently |
I now begin to spray several coats of clear nitro cellulose lacquer |
It helps doing this in the sunlight lacking a proper booth |
a couple of coats, sanding in between and I let it harden overnight |
Back outside for a few more coats |
A lot of the coats will come off during the wetsanding process |
That's about it for spraying |
I used a Sherwin Williams lacquer and and amber tint |
after drying overnight outside its back in the cellar for a week |
A week or 2 (I forget) to cure and I'm ready for sanding |
Different grades will be used to smooth the finish |
The bucket of water is there to keep the paper clean and wet |
I do the top, back and then the sides |
After the sanding comes the rubbing compound |
Its pretty much the same as automobile finishing |
Lots of elbow grease |
Well, we got a body. Might as well finish it. |
I most of the other parts (Fender) from Smart Parts (the pickguard will go back) |
A freind had a tool that allowed us to counter sik the ferrul holes very accurately |
I had to mod the pickup cavity a litlle to get things to line up |
I drill a hole to run a bridge ground before installing the bridge |
I chose a vintage 3 saddle bridge with the Fender Noiseless pickups |
I begin to assenble the control plate but am awaiting a 4-way switch |
I got a Fender 50's MIM neck on ebay (this saved a lot of work) |
The neck came finished, with a serial number and tuner screw holes drilled |
There is even a logo from the factory |
After drilling neck holes I soap the neck screws for easier installation |
The neck also came with a Fender neck plate and nickel plated screws (not slotted though) |
The necks on. The channel aids in truss rod access |
Getting there. |
I had some strap buttons, the locking kind (but no locks) |
They'll do fine |
The rest of the parts are here |
The drill press comes in handy pressing the tuner bushings in |
The Vintage style tuners just screw on (slotted) |
With the VN pickup I found it necessary to dig out the the cavity a bit |
The ground strap will be removed and a third wire soldered as per 4-way switch spec. |
The only non fender component is the RS ceramic .047 cap |
All soldered up and nowhere to go (4 way switch and a No-load tone pot) |
I've don't want to mount the controls without the pickguard |
The guard was on special order, but I cancelled and bought a 52 RI instead |
As I thought, the control cavity is too far back |
I will have to mod the cavity to mount the plate |
I drill a hole with the press out of the ledge of the cavity |
I then glue a piece of dowel in to build up the ledge |
Using another guitar as a template I've marked the slot positions on the nut |
I start by cutting slots with a razor saw |
I use aneedle file set for the thicker string guages |
I now have rough cut the nut |
with strings installed I fine cut the nut slot depth |
Protecting the finish I intonate it |
From the back its complete |
After finishing it, I loaned it to a studio for a couple of weeks and then 6 months later sold it. |