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James V. Roy | profile | all galleries >> Guitars and stuff >> The Projects >> Building a Telecaster tree view | thumbnails | slideshow

Building a Telecaster

This was my last Homebuilt project, a Telecaster using a MusiKraft body and the rest Fender parts. I had initially seen the advertisements in Vintage guitar for Musikraft bodies and wanted to try them as a replacement for former homebuilt guitar. I wound up building this one complete instead.
50's style 2 piece ash body from MusiKraft in Sicklerville, NJ
50's style 2 piece ash body from MusiKraft in Sicklerville, NJ
I started this project intending to just replace another body for this one.
I started this project intending to just replace another body for this one.
The holes for the string ferruls did not come countersunk
The holes for the string ferruls did not come countersunk
I like the squared off edges and edge radius similar to early Fenders
I like the squared off edges and edge radius similar to early Fenders
This body was considered paint grade and therefore only cost about a $100
This body was considered paint grade and therefore only cost about a $100
The bridge mounting holes were tapped but not drilled (as were the neck)
The bridge mounting holes were tapped but not drilled (as were the neck)
Note my super clean work area.
Note my super clean work area.
To get the proper shade of filler for the ash I mix light with natural
To get the proper shade of filler for the ash I mix light with natural
The filler is applied into the grain and the excess wiped off
The filler is applied into the grain and the excess wiped off
I'll clean the ferrul holes out later
I'll clean the ferrul holes out later
It will hang to dry overnight
It will hang to dry overnight
At this stage neatness is not a big concern
At this stage neatness is not a big concern
The next day I've taken it outside to sand the excess filler off
The next day I've taken it outside to sand the excess filler off
I'll remove the filler from the surface leaving the pores and grain filled
I'll remove the filler from the surface leaving the pores and grain filled
A sanding block helps keep the surface flat
A sanding block helps keep the surface flat
A vibrating sander speeds things up
A vibrating sander speeds things up
I'm now ready to apply a lacquer sanding sealer.
I'm now ready to apply a lacquer sanding sealer.
Brushed on it will hang to dry overnight
Brushed on it will hang to dry overnight
Back outside again to sand off the sealer from the surface
Back outside again to sand off the sealer from the surface
Nearly messed it up trying to rub on a tint coat (I also added the channel to the neck)
Nearly messed it up trying to rub on a tint coat (I also added the channel to the neck)
The lacquer is strong so will hang in the garage overnight
The lacquer is strong so will hang in the garage overnight
Using a foam brush I was able to tint it a little more consistently
Using a foam brush I was able to tint it a little more consistently
I now begin to spray several coats of clear nitro cellulose lacquer
I now begin to spray several coats of clear nitro cellulose lacquer
It helps doing this in the sunlight lacking a proper booth
It helps doing this in the sunlight lacking a proper booth
a couple of coats, sanding in between and I let it harden overnight
a couple of coats, sanding in between and I let it harden overnight
Back outside for a few more coats
Back outside for a few more coats
A lot of the coats will come off during the wetsanding process
A lot of the coats will come off during the wetsanding process
That's about it for spraying
That's about it for spraying
I used a Sherwin Williams lacquer and and amber tint
I used a Sherwin Williams lacquer and and amber tint
after drying overnight outside its back in the cellar for a week
after drying overnight outside its back in the cellar for a week
A week or 2 (I forget) to cure and I'm ready for sanding
A week or 2 (I forget) to cure and I'm ready for sanding
Different grades will be used to smooth the finish
Different grades will be used to smooth the finish
The bucket of water is there to keep the paper clean and wet
The bucket of water is there to keep the paper clean and wet
I do the top, back and then the sides
I do the top, back and then the sides
After the sanding comes the rubbing compound
After the sanding comes the rubbing compound
Its pretty much the same as automobile finishing
Its pretty much the same as automobile finishing
Lots of elbow grease
Lots of elbow grease
Well, we got a body.  Might as well finish it.
Well, we got a body. Might as well finish it.
I most of the other parts (Fender) from Smart Parts (the pickguard will go back)
I most of the other parts (Fender) from Smart Parts (the pickguard will go back)
A freind had a tool that allowed us to counter sik the ferrul holes very accurately
A freind had a tool that allowed us to counter sik the ferrul holes very accurately
I had to mod the pickup cavity a litlle to get things to line up
I had to mod the pickup cavity a litlle to get things to line up
I drill a hole to run a bridge ground before installing the bridge
I drill a hole to run a bridge ground before installing the bridge
I chose a vintage 3 saddle bridge with the Fender Noiseless pickups
I chose a vintage 3 saddle bridge with the Fender Noiseless pickups
I begin to assenble the control plate but am awaiting a 4-way switch
I begin to assenble the control plate but am awaiting a 4-way switch
I got a Fender 50's MIM neck on ebay (this saved a lot of work)
I got a Fender 50's MIM neck on ebay (this saved a lot of work)
The neck came finished, with a serial number and tuner screw holes drilled
The neck came finished, with a serial number and tuner screw holes drilled
There is even a logo from the factory
There is even a logo from the factory
After drilling neck holes I soap the neck screws for easier installation
After drilling neck holes I soap the neck screws for easier installation
The neck also came with a Fender neck plate and nickel plated screws (not slotted though)
The neck also came with a Fender neck plate and nickel plated screws (not slotted though)
The necks on.  The channel aids in truss rod access
The necks on. The channel aids in truss rod access
Getting there.
Getting there.
I had some strap buttons, the locking kind (but no locks)
I had some strap buttons, the locking kind (but no locks)
They'll do fine
They'll do fine
The rest of the parts are here
The rest of the parts are here
The drill press comes in handy pressing the tuner bushings in
The drill press comes in handy pressing the tuner bushings in
The Vintage style tuners just screw on (slotted)
The Vintage style tuners just screw on (slotted)
With the VN pickup I found it necessary to dig out the the cavity a bit
With the VN pickup I found it necessary to dig out the the cavity a bit
The ground strap will be removed and a third wire soldered as per 4-way switch spec.
The ground strap will be removed and a third wire soldered as per 4-way switch spec.
The only non fender component is the RS ceramic .047 cap
The only non fender component is the RS ceramic .047 cap
All soldered up and nowhere to go (4 way switch and a No-load tone pot)
All soldered up and nowhere to go (4 way switch and a No-load tone pot)
I've don't want to mount the controls without the pickguard
I've don't want to mount the controls without the pickguard
The guard was on special order, but I cancelled and bought a 52 RI instead
The guard was on special order, but I cancelled and bought a 52 RI instead
As I thought, the control cavity is too far back
As I thought, the control cavity is too far back
I will have to mod the cavity to mount the plate
I will have to mod the cavity to mount the plate
I drill a hole with the press out of the ledge of the cavity
I drill a hole with the press out of the ledge of the cavity
I then glue a piece of dowel in to build up the ledge
I then glue a piece of dowel in to build up the ledge
Using another guitar as a template I've marked the slot positions on the nut
Using another guitar as a template I've marked the slot positions on the nut
I start by cutting slots with a razor saw
I start by cutting slots with a razor saw
I use aneedle file set for the thicker string guages
I use aneedle file set for the thicker string guages
I now have rough cut the nut
I now have rough cut the nut
with strings installed I fine cut the nut slot depth
with strings installed I fine cut the nut slot depth
Protecting the finish I intonate it
Protecting the finish I intonate it
From the back its complete
From the back its complete
After finishing it, I loaned it to a studio for a couple of weeks and then 6 months later sold it.
After finishing it, I loaned it to a studio for a couple of weeks and then 6 months later sold it.