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Compass Marine How To | all galleries >> Welcome To >> Installing New Found Metals Stainless Portlights > Phase 2 - Removing The Old Ports
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Phase 2 - Removing The Old Ports

Phase 2 - Removing The Old Ports

Lucky for me, the Beckson ports had been installed with butyl tape and a double sided foam weather stripping, and not one of the high tenacity polyurethane sealants like 3M 5200. All I needed was to pry the trim rings off the cabin sides and then apply a constant pressure to slowly stretch the butyl and remove the ports.

I used my heavy duty putty knife, that I have properly dulled, so I don't scratch the cabin sides.

If your ports were installed with 3M 5200 please be very, very careful removing them. The tensile strength of 5200 is 700 PSI and the fiberglass to gelcoat bond is roughly 400-500 PSI. What this means is that if you try to force the ports off the boat you can literally tear the gelcoat clean off the substrate. In my opinion, garnered over many years of removing this stuff, 3M 5200 has no place on a boat! Use 5200 at your own risk and remember NOTHING ON A BOAT IS EVER PERMANENT NOT EVEN A KEEL.

If you're at a loss with 5200 try products such as De-Bond to soften it. Sometimes heat will help to soften the 5200 but do be careful using heat guns. They can burn the gelcoat if not used carefully, at safe temps, and kept moving at all times.

Canon PowerShot SD450
1/1500s f/2.8 at 5.8mm full exif

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Guest 03-Sep-2017 18:26
Heat that putty knife for 5200. The stuff is a gift and a nightmare.
James Murray 06-Jul-2013 12:45
I replaced 10 ports on my Hunter 37 and yes all done with 5200. I used a thin blade
wide putty knife with a heat gun to warm and cut through the 5200 and a hack saw.
It took about 15 minutes to remove each port then the real work since the balsa core
around the ports was rotted out.