When re-installing the shaft and coupling apply liberal amounts of Tef-Gel mixed with Never Seize. Coat the shaft and the inside of the coupling and you'll be able to get it apart in the future!




WARNING !!!
If the coupling does not want to come off the shaft with the above method, without over tightening of the fine threaded bolts, have a piece of 3/8 steel cut, at a machine shop, with the same hole pattern as the coupling. To measure the bolt hole centers you can use an inexpensive set of calipers available at Home Depot or transfer the hole pattern with paper. Use this piece of steel, with the deep drive socket in between, instead of the transmission output hub, to break the coupling free. The transmission output hub CAN be broken if you over tighten! This is why it is safer to break the coupling free by hitting it towards the bow and not the stern. If the coupling does not come off, with reasonable tightening, DO NOT over tighten or you'll be looking at a transmission re-build to install a new output shaft!


Don't forget to sand the shaft to remove any burrs before sliding the PSS stainless steel rotor face onto it. Inside this stainless steel rotor face are two rubber o-rings. these o-rings prevent water from leaking into the boat from between the prop shaft and the rotor face. If you slide these o-rings over a metal burr you may cut them and have a potential leak! Use dish soap, as a lubricant, to slide the rotor onto the shaft after de-burring with wet sand paper or a small file if necessary. The shaft should be as smooth as glass when you rub your fingers on it. I put one of my wife's scrap nylons on my hand and rubbed the shaft with the nylon covering my fingers. If the nylons catch on any burrs more sanding is required. Be very careful to ONLY sand the burrs and not to reduce the diameter of the shaft or a wobbly coupling could occur. The burrs are usually along the "key way slot" and the "set screw holes" but could be other places too...

Good Luck,