As much as I like duck in French restaurants, there is NOTHING like an expertly-prepared roast duck done Chinese-style, still warm from the oven. If you are fortunate enough to catch it at its peak moment, when the meat is moist and the skin has just the right amount of crispiness, sweetness and fattiness, it is absolutely heavenly. It goes in the middle of the table as an appetizer ... it is only minutes before it is greedily devoured.

We leave it to the roasting guy to choose the best pieces for us. Sometimes it's the lower part (which we Chinese theorize should be juicier because of its position on the hanging rack), but just as often it's not. We like to lightly dip it into a special "sweet" soy sauce to enhance the flavor.

Of the charcuterie, We are also fond of the soy sauce chicken, salty roasted chicken, and roast pork at this homestyle restaurant. Because of all the bones they have access to, their soup stock is always full-bodied and flavorful. This place is our dining room away from home.

Hsin Wong, 72 Bayard Street, New York, New York 10013 (212) 925-6526