In this shot we can see the rats nest is gone. I have directly routed the alternator to the starter post where it picks up the large battery cable going back to the "C" post of the battery switch. Alternatively you can route the alternator output direct to the house bank and fuse the wire within 7" of the + post.


The crappy in-line fuse holder for the start switch circuit was replaced with one that is much more resistant to moisture, vibration & heat. If your start button sticks, as can happen, you will be glad you have this fuse. This fuse holder is also an ideal location for a hand-held remote start switch tap-in point, for oil changes, fuel filter changes etc. thus eliminating trips to the cockpit just to start the motor..


The panel feed wire, 10GA wire attached to large starter lug, is also fused using a MIDI fuse & holder not too far out of that photo.


I have also installed a neg engine bus bar on the engine bed stringer. A neg wire the same size as the alternator positive is connected directly to the alternator and then to the new negative bus bar.


The second wire from the left goes directly to the ear of the starter for the best possible negative return to the battery bank. I don't like running hundreds of amps through a rusty engine, paint, corrosion and multiple dissimilar metals before it can go back to the batteries. This direct wiring to the starter ear creates less voltage drop and makes for a happy starter motor.


The third wire from the left, under the hose, runs directly back to the negative battery post and carries the alternator and starting currents..