photo sharing and upload picture albums photo forums search pictures popular photos photography help login
Compass Marine | all galleries >> Compass Marine "How To" Articles >> Sealing Deck Penetrations to Prevent Core Rot > Enlarging An Existing Hole
previous | next
Enlarging An Existing Hole
04-Nov-2006

Enlarging An Existing Hole

In order to complete this article I used a scrap piece of end grain balsa deck structure. I wanted to use a scrap piece so that I could make cut-a-ways to show the inner workings and what actually happens on the "inside" of the deck.

Here I have drilled three holes; one for the #115 bit, one for the #654 and one that will remain as 1/4" with no epoxy fill.

----------
The center hole, as you can see, has been counter sunk. This was originally a 1/4" hole that I over sized to 5/16" to make the #115 bit fit into it. Over sizing holes in fiberglass can often result in an "oops" and some serious deck chipping.

----------
So here's the trick to over sizing holes:

----------
#1 Pre-countersink/chamfer the hole to just beyond the width of the drill you will use for the over sizing, in this case 5/16". If your countersink bit is new and sharp ALWAYS use reverse NOT forward when countersinking fiberglass!!! Forward will remove too much material too fast!

----------

#2 Place your brad point drill in the chamfered hole and use reverse. You will cut through the top skin only and have a nice clean hole. You do however need a brad point drill set. You won't find them at Home Depot and will find them a Rockler or on line. This is the quickest and cleanest way to bore the top skin without the drill wandering or causing serious gelcoat chipping!

Nikon D200
1/60s f/10.0 at 70.0mm iso100 full exif

other sizes: small medium large
comment | share
John 02-Apr-2010 16:02
I have had good success avoiding gel coat chipping with drill bits made plexiglass - smooth bevel to a point. I just centerpunch and drill. (package with manufacturer name is on the boat, but I can get it if anyone wants the info).

Also, I used a 1/2 inch aircraft boring tool (requires ~1/8" pilot hole) recommended by NFM to install their ports. It worked very well making a nice smooth cut with no chipping.